I did a search but nothing came up. 

Anyway both my latches are siezed solid and the rear doors won't open on my 2002 2500. 

I have brand new mopar latches both left and right. Any tips on how to get at the old bolts with out wrecking my rear inside door panels?

 

I am going to tear into it soon just looking for advice. 

Edited July 1, 20168 yr by BIG-BLACK-DODGE

1. Move seat(s) forward.
2. Remove two(2) #20 torx screws and inside door pull.
3. remove door panel with a tool like this
4. There is a lot of room for the panel to come off.  Take your time, the plastic may be brittle from age.. 

• find the tool here  http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231780888914?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Edited July 1, 20168 yr by IBMobile

I was able to get mine off by hand, but the plastic pieces holding the panel on we're pretty flimsy already. I'm still trying to find the exact ones to replace those! 

  On 7/1/2016 at 3:52 AM, IBMobile said:

1. Move seat(s) forward.
2. Remove two(2) #20 torx screws and inside door pull.
3. remove door panel with a tool like this
4. There is a lot of room for the panel to come off.  Take your time, the plastic may be brittle from age.. 

• find the tool here  http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231780888914?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

My doors are siezed closed i don't think i can take the panel off till the door is open. 

Oh man the door itself. Hunh!

 

Can you tell where it's binding up? Does it budge at all?

  On 7/1/2016 at 6:54 AM, notlimah said:

Oh man the door itself. Hunh!

 

Can you tell where it's binding up? Does it budge at all?

 

Ya it's just the latch itself siezed. Both doors too... I played with it b4 but never had the latches so i left it alone. Found the latches on ebay for a good price.

 

the nuts/bolts r rusted bad i can see so they might just snap off. I'll have to see if i want tgat to happen or not lol. I just can't remember how it fits in there. Will look at it in the AM and post some pics. 

I will fall in love with yhis truck once i get those doors fixed and some Chevy/Hummer leather seats installed! Lol

 

still looking for some seats... My stockers are beyond brutal....well the drivers side anyways...

Man I'm glad I'm strict about lubricating everything. All I can say is @IBMobile is right just take your time with a panel tool and slowly work your way around the panel. I will suggest that you contact a body shop for replacement plastic panel fasteners.

Edited July 1, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

I'm glad this subject came up. I have to get in there and lube those latches/ linkage since it can cause a real problem.

Thanks Boss Hog, I hope you get it figured out.

  On 7/1/2016 at 12:40 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Man I'm glad I'm strict about lubricating everything. All I can say is @IBMobile is right just take your time with a panel tool and slowly work your way around the panel. I will suggest that you contact a body shop for replacement plastic panel fasteners.

 

Yes i like to keep everything in good shape too but i just bout the truck last year.

the panel is loose but u can't take it right out of there ( i don't think) with the door shut. And they won't open right now. 

When it stops raining i'll check it out and report back... Looking forward to having 4 doors again....

  On 7/1/2016 at 2:00 PM, JAG1 said:

I'm glad this subject came up. I have to get in there and lube those latches/ linkage since it can cause a real problem.

Thanks Boss Hog, I hope you get it figured out.

 

Haha "Boss Hog" that's funny stuff!!! Lol

 

ya those latches are not cheap either!! But i priced around and i got them way cheaper then at the dealer. 

Edited July 1, 20168 yr by BIG-BLACK-DODGE

Both of my lower latches were rusted when I got mine. I was planning on replacing them that summer because of holes (2 years ago) so I didn't care about them but I did want them to work. I used lots of rust remover (wd40 ,crc and yes diesel fuel ) and after a week of soaking numerous times a day and yes you can remove the inside door panel when the door is closed I placed a 2x4 against the bottom of the door and went after it with a small dead blow and both came loose. I was able to get both open and operable with out and damage and used them for another 6 months.

  On 7/2/2016 at 1:19 AM, Nekkedbob said:

Both of my lower latches were rusted when I got mine. I was planning on replacing them that summer because of holes (2 years ago) so I didn't care about them but I did want them to work. I used lots of rust remover (wd40 ,crc and yes diesel fuel ) and after a week of soaking numerous times a day and yes you can remove the inside door panel when the door is closed I placed a 2x4 against the bottom of the door and went after it with a small dead blow and both came loose. I was able to get both open and operable with out and damage and used them for another 6 months.

 There was no way in hell that these were going to be freed up. I even tried using a little bit of heat when I first messed with it a couple months ago. And there was just no way to get at the actual part that was seized.

 

anyway I went out it today and I was able to pull the the panel out some what and get at the three bolts. I just tightened them till they broke off then it took a bunch of carefull prying on the bottom of the door but still it wouldn't open. So i put some small vice grips on the part where the door handle rod hooks into and bent it back n forth till it broke off. Then pounded what was left down so the door would open and leave the latch in place. Then i took the grinder/dremel and cut the latch and it came off finally! Installed new latch and it closes like as if it's a new truck. No slaming of the door required! 

Tried to upload some pics but it won't let me for some reason??? Never had issues before? 

There we go! So here's how you do it folks. Or here's how I did it...

Step 1- pullthe inside panel away at yhe bottom. Ifvyou some how get the whole panel of better yet but i just pryed the bottom out 8" or so.

Step 2- take the rod ghe operates the latch off. Just pry the plastic piece off and then the rod will slip right out. 

Step-3- put small vice grips on the part the the rod was connected too and wiggle it back and forth until it breaks off! I did one side that way and the other side i tried cutting it with a dremel. You want it to break off as close the the bottom as possible

 

 

 

Step-4- use a 10mm socket with a swivel end and a 10" extention and tighten the three nuts until the snap off.

then the door may op or it may not be able to clear the part you broke off in step 3. If need be take a long punch or pipe and hammer and pound it down. Eventually the door will open. 

NOTE use a head light so you can see what you're doing... It's dark in there! Lol

 

Step 5- so just use a chisel and brake the old latch apart. I cut mine down the center with a grinder then chisel it all appart untill the bottom plate of the latch is showing. The one cut down the center and BOOM your latch is finally off!!

 

then clean it all up nice and bolt the new latch on. The door will be tight as the day the trucknwas new. Make sure to lube the door hinges!

 

there was a plug missing on the bottom by my original latches so water got in and rusted them uo bad. Keep in mind my truck has over 600,000km's plus 300 of that was nasty bush roads. 

The pics aren't quite in order but you get the idea.

Don't mind the filthy truck!!! Lol i bought it that way... Carpet is coming out and the whole thing is getting detailed. 

 

Edited July 5, 20168 yr by BIG-BLACK-DODGE