A couple years ago I had a slight head gasket leak by the thermostat housing and ended up over torquing the head bolts by 5 or 10 ft lbs to stop it. Not exactly a smart move I know but was in a bind, 3 hours from home, and trying to leave a location. 

 

A lot of things have happened since then and I smooth forgot that I ever did that until I noticed a water leak today. It's leaking from the exact same spot as before so I see a new head gasket in my future. 

 

Now I've read a buch of different things about the cause of a leaking HG including a cracked or warped head, both of which would suck. With 300k miles on the truck how likely is it to be something serious like a cracked or warped head? I'm wanting to be as prepared as I can to minimize downtime once I'm ready to pull the head.

 

I'm planning to have the head resurfaced, check the valve seats and grind them if necessary, replace valve seals, and install head studs and 60lb valve springs.  

Honestly that spot is notorious for leaking on the 12v's and is 99% of the time just the head gasket itself. Sounds like you have a solid plan for doing it just pull the head and get it checked and resurfaced if it needs it.

 

Edited July 10, 20168 yr by bjytech

Most coolant leaks are from over extending the coolant change intervals. So the coolant becomes corrosive and gaskets and seals tend to give in a bit and start to leak. So I tend not to think warp head or cracked. Not like you go out street racing every night or tractor pulls.

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Most coolant leaks are from over extending the coolant change intervals. So the coolant becomes corrosive and gaskets and seals tend to give in a bit and start to leak. So I tend not to think warp head or cracked. Not like you go out street racing every night or tractor pulls.

 

That's good to hear. I'm not all that hard on my truck and my boost is set to 30 psi. 

 

After doing some more research I think I'm going to use Mighty Diesel head bolts and save myself $400+ vs studs and having the rocker arm stands machined. I'm not going for more that 450hp tops so I really don't see the need for studs. 

Back when I did the head gasket on my truck I installed mighty diesel head bolts and used their recommend torque procedure and I never had a problem with them, they kept everything together nicely at 18° timing seeing 50psi+ of boost and making just under 500hp and they held the 4 times I pulled a sled down the track with them. The first time I pulled was what caused me to have to do my headgasket job... it lifted the head a bit on the stock bolts at factory torque 

Edited July 10, 20168 yr by bjytech

Awesome

25 minutes ago, bjytech said:

Back when I did the head gasket on my truck I installed mighty diesel head bolts and used their recommend torque procedure and I never had a problem with them, they kept everything together nicely at 18° timing seeing 50psi+ of boost and making just under 500hp and they held the 4 times I pulled a sled down the track with them. The first time I pulled was what caused me to have to do my headgasket job... it lifted the head a bit on the stock bolts at factory torque 

 

It's good to hear those bolts will hold up to that kind of use. I much prefer their price and ease of installation. 

 

So far I'm looking at a new head gasket, mighty diesel head bolts, thin injector washers, return line washers, valve seals and 60lb valve springs. I'm also going to check the valves and lap them if necessary. 

Edited July 10, 20168 yr by The_Hammer

1 hour ago, The_Hammer said:

Awesome

 

It's good to hear those bolts will hold up to that kind of use. I much prefer their price and ease of installation. 

 

So far I'm looking at a new head gasket, mighty diesel head bolts, thin injector washers, return line washers, valve seals and 60lb valve springs. I'm also going to check the valves and lap them if necessary. 

 

Follow the install directions to the "T" on those bolts. I stretch broke a couple checking the torque spec after rotating 90 degrees. Running them for over 5k miles with no leaks. 

Valve Springs - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Cummins-3916691-12-valve-60lb-exhaust-valve-springs-Set-of-12-springs-/331832784473?hash=item4d42c67659:g:s7cAAOSwMpZUpZTy&vxp=mtr

Head Gasket - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=447321&cc=1095869&jsn=430

Gaskets/Seals - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=124813&cc=1095869&jsn=436&jsn=436

Not sure what washer thickness the above kit has, so - http://usdieselparts.com/i-13465240-injector-install-kit-89-98-dodge-5-9l-12v.html

Edited July 11, 20168 yr by Cowboy

2 hours ago, Cowboy said:

Valve Springs - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Cummins-3916691-12-valve-60lb-exhaust-valve-springs-Set-of-12-springs-/331832784473?hash=item4d42c67659:g:s7cAAOSwMpZUpZTy&vxp=mtr

Head Gasket - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=447321&cc=1095869&jsn=430

Gaskets/Seals - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=124813&cc=1095869&jsn=436&jsn=436

Not sure what washer thickness the above kit has, so - http://usdieselparts.com/i-13465240-injector-install-kit-89-98-dodge-5-9l-12v.html

 

Thanks for the links! 

 

I like the price of the Fel-Pro head gasket but heard that they are inferior compared to a Cummins gasket. Is there any truth to this? 

Local machine shop just quoted me $325 to resurface the head 

2 minutes ago, The_Hammer said:

Local machine shop just quoted me $325 to resurface the head 

 

Seem you might have to do some calling around. Seems rather high for surfacing a head. Unless I'm missing some sort of special requirement I don't know about.

33 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Seem you might have to do some calling around. Seems rather high for surfacing a head. Unless I'm missing some sort of special requirement I don't know about.

 

I'm seeing anywhere from $60 - $110 to resurface a head from different machine shops online. They can stick their $325 resurfacing where the sun don't shine. 

 

Found another shop that will do it for $150 but requires a cleaning and magnaflux for $75, so $225 total. It would probably be a good idea to magnaflux it anyway. I'm going to keep checking around.

Edited July 11, 20168 yr by The_Hammer

 

Just found another place that is closer and will pressure test and resurface for $230.

Might have to look into new valves, guides, and seals with that many miles.

2 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

Might have to look into new valves, guides, and seals with that many miles.

 

I'm going to check all of that once it's off. 

11 hours ago, The_Hammer said:

 

Thanks for the links! 

 

I like the price of the Fel-Pro head gasket but heard that they are inferior compared to a Cummins gasket. Is there any truth to this? 

 

Some, yes.  The "standard design" is complete garbage.  The "Improved Design" is identical to the Cummins gasket. 

 

There's procedures for checking all the clearances in the FSM as well as in the "6bt Engine Overhual Guide" PDF I have.  I'll upload it in a bit. 

 

Do you plan on giving the head any love while it's off?!?!?!

35 minutes ago, Cowboy said:

 

Some, yes.  The "standard design" is complete garbage.  The "Improved Design" is identical to the Cummins gasket. 

 

There's procedures for checking all the clearances in the FSM as well as in the "6bt Engine Overhual Guide" PDF I have.  I'll upload it in a bit. 

 

Do you plan on giving the head any love while it's off?!?!?!

 

How do I know which gasket is the improved design when ordering? 

 

I'm not sure if I am or not. Is it even worth messing with for my 450hp goal? 

Here's the PDF 

 

 

And

 

 

Head porting does take some time, and really isn't needed to make big numbers.  It just helps the engine breath a little better lowering boost, EGT's and lag.

1 hour ago, Cowboy said:

Here's the PDF 

 

 

And

 

 

Head porting does take some time, and really isn't needed to make big numbers.  It just helps the engine breath a little better lowering boost, EGT's and lag.

 

Awesome, thanks!

 

Fel-Pro head gasket, Fel-Pro engine gasket kit, DAP 4k GSK, Cummins 60lb valve springs and new head bolts $372.82. Pressure testing and resurfacing the head $248.97 (tax included). So I'm looking at $621.79 to get this sucker finished up, not including antifreeze and an oil change. This is ASSumming that the valves, guides, and head itself are still good 

 

After this the only thing left to upgrade is the turbo. I hope my turbo doesn't read this and decide to call it quits 

Edited July 11, 20168 yr by The_Hammer

Got the new bolts on the way (thanks Cowboy!) and will be ordering everything else tonight. I'm also going to order new Autometer Z series gauges to replace the broken Glowshift garbage after I have my head tested. No since in spending money on gauges if I end up needing a head. Hopefully it will be fine and things will go smoothly. 

 

Went ahead and ordered everything so now it's just going to be finding the time to pull the head.