Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

@Me78569 it's pretty limited to boost. Seems to surge right at 18 psi 

Try dropping your fuel load timing to ~1* and drop the 1500 rpm timing by 1* - 2*

Edited April 17, 20178 yr by Me78569

My quad app also freezes and looses connection. Happens if my tablet (Samsung Tab) sits in the truck all weekend without being fully shut off. Also, seems to freeze after 3 continuous hours driving. Thought it was the Tablet so I returned it for a replacement. Same situation. Going to move the Bluetooth module as well. Trying to track the culprit one step at a time. 

Quad app freezing after I apply a different tune and try to change levels. 

Report the freeze when it asks.

How's everyone doing with their tunes?  Any new discoveries or progress?

15 hours ago, Carbur8tr said:

How's everyone doing with their tunes?  Any new discoveries or progress?

 

I have some ideas regarding timing tuning that I want to start tackling soon, but I might not have the time this month. I'm day four of ten 12 hour days in a row at work. I need to find an open, dead road, or a track, or a dyno, but i'm cheap. I want to work on a bit of a highway mileage tune, that will likely be my daily driver. What I'm going to try next is disable cruise timing, disable low psi timing reduction, and max out load timing @ 3 degrees. With these parameters, I want to hit the highway at set the cruise at various RPM's (1500, 2000, 2500, 3000) based on the RPM timing chart. Might have to make an exception for 3000 RPM for obvious reasons, haha. I want to data log EGT's and CANBUS fueling at all of these RPM's at various timing settings, in increments/decrements of likely 2 degrees at first, then 1 degree, half degree, etc to dial in the timing setting that nets the lowest fuel consumption without knocking like bastard.

 

Depending how ridiculous my RPM Max timing settings look, I can fine tune with adjusting load timing, and introducing some low psi timing reduction. I have done a lot of reading about diesel fuel injection timing lately, and it's become very apparent to me that the same # of degrees BTDC of INTENDED injection timing for you and me could net extremely different results. You might have stock injectors with pop pressures dead on factory specs. I might have 7x.014 injectors with pop pressures set a little high or a little low. The different fueling characteristics could have a huge affect on actual final injection timing. I'm guessing VP44 age/health may even affect things to a certain degree. That's why I think it's important to use the measured data available to us to come to a solid conclusion. I suspect that my fueling setup is causing a sizable retardation in final injection timing. I guess we'll see!

 

-Kole

Edited May 4, 20178 yr by kzimmer

Just keep in mind that most MPG mode travel will float in the 1,500 timing bracket. (55-65 MPH). As for the 2,000 bracket that above 70 MPH and MPG numbers start to sink no matter what. So I look at it this way create a good starting point for the 1,500 bracket and then build the rest of the timing map for performance. Then use the cruise timing to for your MPG timing at cruise state.

10 minutes ago, kzimmer said:

I'm guessing VP44 health age/health may even affect things to a certain degree. 

 

So true as my starting of this I come to find out both my injectors and injection pump was marginal at best and failing shortly after starting into the tuning. No, my failure was not caused from the Quadzilla just to be clear about that.

7 hours ago, kzimmer said:

....

-kole

I am very curious to hear what you find. 

On 5/4/2017 at 8:31 PM, Me78569 said:

I am very curious to hear what you find. 

 

I'm pretty excited to get going on this, but my next day off isn't until May 13th, and I have some side projects to get ready for camping season as well.

Edited May 11, 20178 yr by kzimmer
Typo

Is it normal to see 12-14 psi of boost at idle?  I was trying to find an answer in this topic but couldn't find a direct answer. Just curious if my map sensor is going out.

Not at all normal.  0-3 ish psi on late trucks is normal.

Ok, so could this be a ground issue? Alternator? Keep in mind this is a fummins swap so there could be wiring issues.  Any insight is appreciated.

Break out the multimeter and probe the wires from the ecm to the map sensor.

 

this article has the wiring for a 01 engine.  the map sensor is a 5v reference sensor so you should have a ground, 5v input and an output that decreases in V as psi rises.

 

Edited May 12, 20178 yr by Me78569

13 psi is the boost pressure I see on my iQuad, not on an actual mechanical gauge just to be clear.

Yep the Quad is reporting what the ecm is outputting.  the ecm is thinking it is at no less than 13 psi.

So is that normal then? I just want to make sure before I start tearing into my wiring.

No not normal.  13 psi I way to high.  Test the plug at the sensor for input v and output v.

Well i got out the multimeter and probed the map sensor. I'm getting 4.99V between the supply and sensor ground.  Lowest i've seen on my iquad is 12psi.  Is it safe to assume my map sensor is shot?

I would have to say your right the sensor is shot and failed within specs. It other words the MAP sensor reporting a valid number of boost but not out of range so it would never trip a code. Rare but it does happen. Your voltage appears correct for the sensor circuit.