Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

I have been getting an overboost/turbo overspeed code every once in a while.  Wheres a good place to get a quality sensor?

Any part store should work. Some will say go to Cummins. The problem is no matter what its about $100 to $120 sensor. They are not cheap.

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB227091

My own sensor failed like this as well back when.  

 

I would pop the map part number into eBay and see if you can find a new old stock sensor.

Watch out for Chinese knock offs that might be super cheap on Ebay or Amazon.

Just to be clear, the value shown on the iquad isn't atmospheric pressure being shown plus actual boost is it?  should that value read 0 at idle and if the engine is off but the key is on?

 

I have read a couple post where people were seeing the same values as me at idle and thought their MAP was bad but it turned out to be the value of atmospheric pressure being shown and not actual boost pressure.

The Iquad screen will show between 0-2 psi at idle depending on the truck.   If it is showing 14 psi then your truck ecm is literally reporting it is seeing between 10 - 14 psi at idle.  

 

Atmospheric is considered in the calculation

Ok, thanks...i just wanted to make sure the quad did the calculation.

Well, I guess I'll take a second shot at typing this, since for some reason it didn't send and 'poofed'. Must be Monday.

 

So, I haven't done a ton of tuning, but I made a little bit of progress with my plans of tuning timing on my truck. Even in the flattest part of Canada, its tough to do steady state tuning with minor changes in wind/grade... Especially since I still haven't been able to export my logs. What I really need is a dyno... But I'm too cheap, and especially can't justify the cost while I'm in experimentation mode. But, I digress...

 

Here's the issue I'm having: I need the Max timing limits increased, especially for 1500 and 2000 RPM, and possibly 2500, not there yet. Confused? Think I'm a meat head? Haha. Perfect! Let me explain.

 

So, if you recall, the goal for my timing tuning is to get a timing curve as efficient as possible using logged data from EGT's and canbus fuel levels. I want to use the Max load timing feature for this, and I'd like to avoid the cruise timing feature. I'd like my timing map to be dynamic enough without applying cruise timing. I really think this is doable and important. Load timing should help facilitate this. I decided I should switch directions a little and get a good starting point by comparing lvl 0 (stock) timing to lvl 3 (custom) timing. What I learned, is with load timing at 3*, or even 2*, I can't event reach stock timing advance cruising at 1500 RPM, with Max timing set to 18* (upper limit). I have a 3.54 rear and 35" tires, so this is important. My highway 100km/h cruising RPM is like 1650. Yes I know I can enable cruise timing, but I really think this would be a bandaid, and only help things at steady state cruise, no hills, no towing, etc. No good in my amature opinion.

 

With load timing set to 2*, and 1500 RPM timing maxed out at 18*, I'm still at least 1.5 * -  2* below stock advance at steady load, whereas I'd like to be more advanced because of my fuel setup. I have similar issues closer to 2000 RPM. I can only assume this is likely the case for many scenarios, and not just cruising. This kind of renders the load timing feature unusable for me, and I'm a sad panda at this point. @Me78569, tear my post apart! What do you think?

@Mopar1973Man has played the most with mileage and timing from what I have seen. Even in his case he was limiting timing due to seeing no gains having it far advanced.

I accidentally ran 23* today in a situation where lvl 0 wanted 18*. Saw an immediate drop in boost from around 12psi to around 8psi, with a noticable drop in both EGT's and canbus fuel. Not too bad of a rattle either. This leads me back to my previous assessment that my fuel setup is retarding final injection timing. So my timing numbers might be significantly higher than others with the same end result (peak combustion at 15* ATDC ideally)

First time in my life I am happy to see the emissions test notice in the mail.  

 

Time to give the state money.  I will be curious how much power I put down with my %100 clean tune.

Pull up to the test stand with 150% canbus and some wiretap, leave a cloud. And then set it to level 1. Lol.

58 minutes ago, kzimmer said:

Pull up to the test stand with 150% canbus and some wiretap, leave a cloud. And then set it to level 1. Lol.

 

Be careful with that... I've got a good contact with Ada County smog testing in Boise ID that I've been talking too. There is one customer that did something similar. He came in with the tuner at 50% and ran the test and passed the test. Then he cranked up the tuner and smoked out the tech. The reported him and denied his future registration of his truck for being a  ...

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Be careful with that... I've got a good contact with Ada County smog testing in Boise ID that I've been talking too. There is one customer that did something similar. He came in with the tuner at 50% and ran the test and passed the test. Then he cranked up the tuner and smoked out the tech. The reported him and denied his future registration of his truck for being a  ...

I know I kid I kid. Hahaha that's hilarious though. I almost wish there were emissions tests where I live, just for the satisfaction of passing.

In a way, I wish it was statewide (Idaho) for all the lame punk kids and their truck would have to clean their junk up and quit blowing large clouds of smoke. Down in Boise I run across Ford and Chevy constantly wanting to roll a big cloud on everyone. What's more, fun is whipping then from light to light and not making any smoke at all.

They just signed in a bill making "rolling coal" a primary offense here in Colorado.   So we will see where we end up with any amount of smoke.  

5 hours ago, stumblinhorse said:

They just signed in a bill making "rolling coal" a primary offense here in Colorado.   So we will see where we end up with any amount of smoke.  

 

"Welcome to Colorado, where we roll doobies, not coal".

That's basically true, @kzimmer.  

It's only a $100 fine, which I personally think is hilariously low for how much hype there was for this bill to pass

Edited June 6, 20177 yr by trreed

Question about the canbus fuel level (0-4095). Assuming no wiretap, is this number an absolute value of how much fuel is being commanded? Are there any other factors at play that dictate volume of fuel injected besides the canbus fuel message?

 

For example, if I'm driving at 100 km/h in 3rd gear, overdrive turned off, my commanded canbus fuel level might be 700. Let it shift into overdrive, and canbus fuel might jump to 850. EGT's might increase 150-250 degrees F as well. Logic tells me I'm using more fuel. Downshift and get the RPM's up over 2000 instead of 1650. 

 

Any other factors I'm missing? Does RPM play a roll?

 

Thank you,

-Kole

Edited June 10, 20177 yr by kzimmer

Canbus is the duration fueling command.   Keep in mind 2000 canbus is more fuel at 2500rpm compared to 1500 tomorrow, because the engine is spinning faster.  

 

It is commons to see canbus fuel command drop at higher revs because the engine is spinning faster thus more combustion strokes per second.