Hey guys me again.

I bought a alternator after old one read to much alternator noise,  well now trucks sometimes getting power to pump and sometimes just won't start , fuel lift pump kicks on but once it even attempts to start not turn over , it won't cme on for a second,  not really.familiar but after all I've replaced I'm looking towards ecm telling vp not to start ? Or...

I know that yall may not be able to help but thanks ahead

You can try hot wiring the VP.  I would try this when your problem is present and the truck will not start.  If you pull the connector off the VP you can run a jumper wire from the battery's positive and ground to power up the VP.  This takes everything else out of the equation.  I think 6 is ground and pin 7 is power on that connector.  With the VP hotwired you can try to start the truck.  Powered in this way, the throttle will not work and turning the key off to power down will not work, you will have to remove the jumper wire. 

 

You can also check for power at those same pins on the plug side of that harness.  As you do that you can massage the harness and look for drops in power.

8 hours ago, Hawkez said:

You can try hot wiring the VP.  I would try this when your problem is present and the truck will not start.  If you pull the connector off the VP you can run a jumper wire from the battery's positive and ground to power up the VP.  This takes everything else out of the equation.  I think 6 is ground and pin 7 is power on that connector.  With the VP hotwired you can try to start the truck.  Powered in this way, the throttle will not work and turning the key off to power down will not work, you will have to remove the jumper wire. 

 

You can also check for power at those same pins on the plug side of that harness.  As you do that you can massage the harness and look for drops in power.

 

8 hours ago, Hawkez said:

You can try hot wiring the VP.  I would try this when your problem is present and the truck will not start.  If you pull the connector off the VP you can run a jumper wire from the battery's positive and ground to power up the VP.  This takes everything else out of the equation.  I think 6 is ground and pin 7 is power on that connector.  With the VP hotwired you can try to start the truck.  Powered in this way, the throttle will not work and turning the key off to power down will not work, you will have to remove the jumper wire. 

 

You can also check for power at those same pins on the plug side of that harness.  As you do that you can massage the harness and look for drops in power.

I tested it , and it won't even stay started long enough , and the volts are constantly 12.6, and 11.5 when cranking

Seems low.  These trucks csn be cranky with low voltage coming from the batteries. 

1 hour ago, ItzReckless said:

 

I tested it , and it won't even stay started long enough , and the volts are constantly 12.6, and 11.5 when cranking

What did you test?  Power coming into the IP? or did you hot wire the IP?

Pin 7  then ground at pin 6

Ok guys I am gonna go ahead and drop tank completely , and redo the lines from tank tips to the metal , I eliminaTed the plastic quick connects up front but it seems as the ones at tank are next , other than that truck drives good but at 1700 rpm accelerating it starts to surge and chop , I afraid it's sucking air!

No telling what it might be. All I know is Chryslers fuel system engineers did not do a good job to take care of the  injection pump. When I bought my truck with 29,000 on it I did not drive it until the following

Fuel pressure gauge

Lift pump located on the frame with 1/2 lines all the way

Screens taken out of the fuel tank canister making sure no intank pump in there.

Added my own tank vent, but, alls you need is a vented cap.

No quick connects, all solid fuel hose with tight clamps

A prefilter before the lift pump helps with sediment and water out of the lift pump and keeps the factory filter holding longer, not overwhelmed with all the work.

 

Different guys on here have various versions of the same mod all with the same goal of a reliable more easily diagnosed truck..

Edited October 2, 20168 yr by JAG1

Jag, may as well ignore my last statement,  I believe it's the computer on the injection pump, my injection pump is getting power,  the vehicle would start , then die no loss of power to pin 6, or 7 whatever, but the thing is now it won't restart even with lift pump running , idk I bet it's the VP44 

I did notice it ran longer when I washed the **** out of it , but eventually driving at 1700 began to surge, parked it , then it would start idle die , now no start, then let it sit and it will start 

Crack a couple injectors to be sure, although a bad timing piston in the injection pump may still bring fuel up to each cylinder. Make sure everything is tight. Once I got fuel draining back to the tank, loosing prime, because I did not properly torque the factory fuel filter cap so it was sucking air allowing drain back to the tank. 25 ft lbs is specs and don't use the 1/2 driver square in the middle, that plastic cap can get cracks so use the big socket instead.

It can crank and not start for a bit , but I can go out side and sometimespecially it'll fire up , maybe there's a air pocket, idk anymore, the mechanics wanting to just replace vp 44 but I don't think it's that , but idk 

Fuel tank sides seem to be sucked in 

loosen your gas cap and see if any vacuum has built up. you should hear air being sucked in and the tank would swell. Mine looks a little like that but it is that way all the time.

At just replacedar quick connects it is running , but for how long,  lmao until it gets hot , anyone got a draw straw and screen pickup part number my screen is ripped from improper removal but other than that the straw seems to be not leaking 

Scrap those screens Brandon. If You ever buy bad fuel you will want it getting trapped at the aftermarket filter not at the screens and have to drop the tank bud.

Truck woulent start , let It cool, it fired right up, maybe when warm ecm is telling vp shutoff or its locking up, and then when ithe sits it frees ?, cause the truck is fine till it warms up, ansolutely no codes on reader but key shows 1693 , idk anymore  vp keeps power , gahe is my fuel overflow causing this 

325 248 7472 , I am open to text untill further response with a video 

If the VP still has power to it the ECM is not shutting it down.

Drip,

My fuel filter will it cause a change in pressure being clogged any all takes a good blow but eventually bubbles come out , that's when blowing the toprice hole, maybe I'll try filter .... figured dealer changed it , guess not 

I just figured if filter would cause it at all times not just after warm 

Gonna get a damn gauge I understand it's adequate,  but give me time lmao I'm a 12 valve person 

On ‎9‎/‎30‎/‎2016 at 7:31 PM, ItzReckless said:

Pin 7  then ground at pin 6

Did you hot wire the IP?  Meaning run 12v from the battery and a ground to the jack on the IP?  If you did this, and the truck still wouldn't start/run and I would rule out the ECM and lean towards the VP44.  However, if the truck ran fine like this, warm and cold, I would look harder at the ECM.

The pins are getting 12 volts why hot wire it,  I put new filter , bet it was the reason for it all tbh, it died next to Napa so I got one yes mine was def. Clogged , well wouldnt start so I bled injectors and was getting it to start but it was doing more fuel out of the first injector and less out of others 

And it died , and I tried to bleed more still died, idk maybe it was filter and I'm not bleeding them right 

Edited October 3, 20168 yr by ItzReckless
Bad spelling

Guys , I left truck , came back 2 hours laTer , craneed for a second and it fired up,  put in drive drove 3 feet it died , won't restart again lmao , so it's not air , it's not fuel , but yet could it be a sensor,  caus earlier is was driving fine till it hit 3rd gear then boom lost it , threw it in N  and it fired up and made it to my buddies where I turned it off , went to leave and that's when it died near Napa as stated above 

16 hours ago, ItzReckless said:

The pins are getting 12 volts why hot wire it

By hot wiring it you can eliminate the ECM and pin point it to the IP.

 

How are you just now checking the fuel filter.  That has been suggested by this forum before.