well guys it turns out I got the vp fixed right> oh don't remember yea I'm that guy that had a vp issue when I first joined , well guys I got some arp studs and a manifold and a gasket? why because I replaced my tappet cover gasket and it seemed to be leaking still well then it seemed my head was leaking?? no not really I got the gasket off and it looks perfect well??maybe, I'm no expert but guys the bolts look almost new ? or is that a common issue for the bolts to look new because they are preserved ?? also sorry for my typing I'm on a mobile phone, and asweel do I need to ge tmy head machine I mean the intake could be cleaned and I'm sure the valves could be checked  or can my arps do the trick?

What bolts are looking new? Tappet bolts or head bolts?

he head bolts look new brotha ? and also the head doesn't have any pitting and looks perfect just need to remove a little of old gasket , I don't wanna machine it it looks so good and it didn't have a blown gasket never overheated

 

btw I hate to be a creep you live in Colorado springs Colorado, keep a eye out for a basic white 4 door jeep a bald head man drives it his name is bill gleason, he just moved there from llano texas  my smoking buddy

Hahah

I am no engine expert but always thought you should always have the head check for flatness when it was off. Others here know more about this than I.

I would agree

You should at least have the head checked for flatness. What you do from there all depends on the pocket book. 

Well cleaning the valves and stuff is out of the question because I'm not disassembly the valves, I'm talking to Jeff winn here at Texas engine machine later about pricing but as far as pitting or deep grooves I see none , I just don't wanna do it if it was just done cause the bolts look new threads don't seem scarred , no idea , I had a 12 valve and I had head machined but it overheated and it leaked fromw under thermo housing , I know it should be done but only if it's bad and this thing looks great even the block doesn't have pitting 

 

can you give me a brief run down of what happened to start with?  I can't remember.  

The head at a minimum will need to be surfaced. The block needs to be checked for flatness with a machinist straight edge and feeler gauges.

1 hour ago, jlbayes said:

The head at a minimum will need to be surfaced. The block needs to be checked for flatness with a machinist straight edge and feeler gauges.

I wouldn't say the head has to be surfaced, but it should be checked by a machine shop at a minimum. (They'll likely say it needs machined) I doubt there's any block distortion, but you should do as @jlbayes says and check it for flatness with a machinist straight edge and feeler gauges. 

 

I would NOT slap it back together without having those things checked because you'll regret it if you blow the gasket. It really doesn't matter if the bolts came out clean or not. 

 

The other thing I would do is replace the valve seals while the head is out. There's really no reason not to. 

I have NEVER seen a head as long as these come off and be perfectly straight. just sayin

 

Fwiw my local machine shop charges 80 bucks to surface the head.