I need to order a pump this week, which one is best?

 

 

Way too many think you can toss a lift kit/leveling kit and larger tires and everything works. Sorry, it doesn't work that way you need to get the geometry of the front axle back to the way it was without the lift or leveling kit. Axle angles are all wrong after a lift. Typically longer control arms that adjustable will help as well as the adjustable track bar. Then you have to consider the leveraging forces of the larger tire and what it's doing to tie rod ends, wheel bearings and ball joints. Soi now you have to consider larger rational mass and larger leveraging forces on stock parts and people wonder why the "Cool Look" cost so much...

I am headed back to not "so cool look" :-)  I think I would like to find a set of 17" wheels for the truck so I can put the 3rd gen front rotors on it.  Would be nice to have a little more braking.  How many hours do you guys figure for a first time VP44 R&R?

26 minutes ago, portlandareae28 said:

I think I would like to find a set of 17" wheels for the truck so I can put the 3rd gen front rotors on it.

 

Would be better to put an exhaust brake on and then you rarely touch the brake pedal. I service my brakes every 180-190k miles now with stock 16" wheels and stock OEM calipers. Exhaust brake has no technical wear and will extend the brake life quite a bit even with city driving. @portlandareae28 you might not know this but I drive to Boise every other day for @MoparMom to get dialysis. So I'm in Boise traffic every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Exhaust brake works wonderfully in reducing brake wear. 

 

26 minutes ago, portlandareae28 said:

How many hours do you guys figure for a first time VP44 R&R?

 

Labor book calls for 4 hours to R&R a VP44. I typically now do then in 1.5 hours without thinking. 

 

Edited May 25, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

which brake do you have Michael?  when my truck is down I drive an '09 dually with the turbo brake, but my dads old 01 I believe had the Cummins brake on it which I think he really liked.   I would love to have an exhaust brake on my '01.  

The first time I did a VP my son helped and we took 4.5 hours. It is not difficult at all, I read and re read all the way thru the install. Pretty much bolt off bolt on.

I'm running a Jacobs brake (Sold by Dodge) but they are no longer sold. So I would suggest a PacBrake for you. 

I will look into that.  I have all of my parts here for the vp swap this weekend, got an isspro gauge (fuel pressure) as well.  I was thinking about installing the gauge before I do anything to see what my fuel pressure looks like on the current VP, any thoughts on this?  Also going to look for the Mopar1973man ccv thread so I can get all the oil off of the front of the engine, radiator, etc..

The FP gauge is to read pressure off of the lift pump that feeds the VP. That is the critical pressure you need to know. The VP needs 14 psi and above for max circulation of fuel thru the over flow. This give the electronics max cooling.

thats what I was thinking, so why subject the new VP to low fuel pressure if I currently have low fuel pressure?  I know that I have to tap the feed to the VP44 so guessing a full bleed of the system?  Is there a way to check without hurting the new VP if I change everything?

 

Edited May 27, 20177 yr by portlandareae28
forgot to finish typing :-)

Once the VPs out you'd need to do a 'full bleed' either way. Nothing different then bleeding the system any time the fuel lines are open. 

 

Checking the pressure at the VP won't ever hurt it, just not giving it enough pressure hurts it.

5 hours ago, notlimah said:

Checking the pressure at the VP won't ever hurt it, just not giving it enough pressure hurts it.

 

It does hurt the gauge or gauge senders. Closer you are to the VP44 the stronger the water hammer pulses are and the more damage it does to the gauge. Don't hurt the VP44 one bit but get rather expensive to constantly replacing gauges or senders.

8 hours ago, portlandareae28 said:

thats what I was thinking, so why subject the new VP to low fuel pressure if I currently have low fuel pressure?  I know that I have to tap the feed to the VP44 so guessing a full bleed of the system?  Is there a way to check without hurting the new VP if I change everything?

 

It would be good to know what you fp is before hand. If it is low you can take care of that at the same time you do the VP. Pretty much anytime you open up the fuel system you have to bleed it to get the engine running again. And you should always protect the sender or tap for a mechanical gauge from the VP pulses.

I have an isspro ev2 electronic gauge (not mechanical) do I still need to be concerned with the water hammer pulses?  I got a fuel snubber needle valve too but I believe that is to fight pulsing in the gauge.

Yes.

Just barely crack the valve open. Thats how it protects.

so will the sender and everything fit right under the fuel bowl?  DAP didn't mention anything about the remote hose kit that is in the isspro instructions, and I don't have it.

Edited May 27, 20177 yr by portlandareae28
spell check doesn't like the word isspro

Mine is remote mounted to the driver side fender. This gives time for the pulses to fade over distance. Then if you have to test the gauge you can add a test and add your test gauge. Easy access and way less problems.

still happy with your 1/8" air hose?  

Yes sir.. 1/8 inch air brake line.

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

machiingMine is remote mounted to the driver side fender. This gives time for the pulses to fade over distance. Then if you have to test the gauge you can add a test and add your test gauge. Easy access and way less problems.

  Go ahead, rub it in...  I would like to have one.  I ask Vulcan just the other day.   He said he won't be making the bracket any time soon and changed the subject.  I guess there is more machining to the bracket than what meets the eye.  You have a great set up.  Would you post another pic of it?  Can't find your old one. The bracket would make a great project someday.