OK so I recently rebuilt my 47re and have just over 1000 miles on it now . right around the 800 mile mark I started getting a pretty noticeable 2-3 bind up and I've been chasing my tail trying to catch it ever since.when I rebuilt the transmission I originally put in a superior front servo, the one with the sleeve and 2 o rings that restricts the release oil flow. I thought that was my problem so I swapped it out for a new billet double ring, double spring servo with billet cover. That didn't cure it either. I'm all ears at this point, everybody I've talked to says go with the TCS servo and there 4.2 lever and it'll go away. But I'm not ready to drop the trans to change the lever out unless I'm 100% sure that'll fix it. Trans specs are as follows 

Goerend triple disc 17LC

Georend vb and there 3.8 lever

Band set at 72in pounds and 2 turns out(I've tried it anywhere from 1.5-2.5 turns and 2 turns seems to feel the best

Line pressure set at 175psi with the TV lever tied at 80%

Rear forward 4 gpz set at. 025

Direct 5 gpz set at. 070

Firepunk anteater tcm

 

The man you need to talk to is @Dynamic he is our site transmission guy.

Alright will he catch this post or should I contact him some other way?also here's the servo I'm running now 

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/111370118584

Just send him a PM to get his attention to the post. 

Alright thanks

Seems weird you're having issues with this. I'd figure all of Goerend's stuff would come with all the top notch goodies ready to go and you wouldn't have this issue. I'd be interested to hear what @Dynamic thinks.

I tried sending dynamic a pm but it says he cannot receive messages so his inbox must be full. Yeah that's what i thought to, I've tried contacting Dave from goerend for about 2 weeks now but he's a busy guy and I guess his daughter got married last week. So I understand 

Yea either keep trying Dave or you can call Jon and see what he thinks.

You probably already know this, but it sounds like the front clutch is applying before the band is releasing. The band is supposed to release slightly before the front clutch applies, too late is a bind-up, too early is a flare.

 

Do you trust your inch pound torque wrench for the front band? Do you have another? I see you have tried a few different settings though, so this might not be very helpful. I think there is a procedure floating around to set the band by feel, although I don't have it. Might be worth a shot. That bind-up might lessen in severity after it wears out part of the front band... But you obviously don't want that, haha.

 

I think if I was to try one last thing before pulling the trans, it would be to leave the band intentionally a little bit less tight just to see what happened. Too much so, and of course it could slip in second.

 

Sorry if this is useless info, I'm just grasping at straws.

 

http://www.atsdiesel.com/additionalinfo/3092164/47RH-RE Band Adjustment v1.0.pdf

 

Here's a document from ATS that explains how to set the front band without a torque wrench, by feel.

 

"The ‘other’  method, the ‘shade tree’  or ‘backyard’  way of doing things can also be done (with adequate results without using a torque wrench)(counting is a needed skill though).  You will still need the same wrenches to adjust. Start by loosening the jamb nut on the intermediate band with the 3/4 inch wrench. Back it off a few turns and tighten down the force screw until it JUST becomes snug.  You will feel tension start to occur when this happens, up to that point the screw will be loose. Now tighten down the screw about a quarter of a turn.  You can feel the play on the apply (to the fulcrum to the apply piston) (on the front passenger side of the transmission) snug up and lose all free play. You will now loosen the force screw by 1 1/2 turns. Retighten the jamb nut back down while holding the force screw. Snug up the jamb nut and then give the nut an additional 1/8 turn.  You don’t want to over tighten the jamb nut too much or you can strip out the threads in the case (bad thing will happen)."

 

I especially like how they call it the backyard method, haha.

Edited June 18, 20177 yr by kzimmer

On 6/16/2017 at 7:39 AM, Thatguy said:

 

I tried sending dynamic a pm but it says he cannot receive messages so his inbox must be full.

 

 

Just sent @Dynamic a PM to get his attention.

I can try the backyard method. I also was going to try putting a restrictor in that will slow the direct apply pressure.I blew the oil seal on my top Turbo last night when I blew a boot. So the truck will be down until I get a rebuild kit in.id like to hear what dynamic has to say 

Talked to Dave today and he said having my direct drum at .070 is to tight causing the direct to come on before the band releases. He gave me a few things to try and if that doesn't cut it ill be pulling the trans to add another .025 to the direct.

Sorry, I've been busy... Not a lot of time to get on here.

 

Yes, I was going to comment that .070" is too tight for the direct clutch. It will come on before the band releases fully, causing your tie-up.

 

I run my directs at .090-.100", depending upon the number of discs in there, and my front bands at 1-3/4 turns out.

Well for my first time rebuilding an auto, this is my only problem that's surfaced so far. If dropping the trans and loosening that pack up is the worst of my problems I'm not to worried

How did you set up the direct? How many discs? What brand of frictions and steels? What snap ring? What backing plate? How did it end up so tight?

5 gpz, regular steels. I used the backing plate that was in it along with the same snap ring. When I pull it out to loosen it up am I better off getting a thinner snap ring or a machined backing plate? 

What was done to get the 5th friction and steel in there? A 47RE only comes with 4 of each...

 

If the frictions and steels are thinner than stock, I strongly recommend against that kind of setup. I set mine up with 5 full thickness frictions, 4 of the thicker late model steels and 1 early thinner steel, but I do the required machine work to get them in there, and still have .090" clearance. I use a flat snap ring, also...not the wavy OEM snap ring.

 I don't know the history of the trans before I got it other than it'd been rebuilt before. There was 4 clutches in there and I put 5 back in,as far as any changes I didn't make any to the backing plate or anything else. The steels measured .085 and I think the fibers were close to the same but I can't Rememeber off the top of my head. Do you run the factory 9 return springs? And what's gained over swapping the spring snap ring for the flat one

Not sure if you got this sorted out or not, but I typically run a .074" flat snap ring, a thinner (forward clutch) steel against the piston, and .085" steels everywhere else. I also run .085" frictions as well. From there, I machine the piston and backing plate for proper clearance. I typically end up taking .050" off of the piston face, and cutting about a .100-.110" step into the backing the backing plate.