Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I get the head off without removing studs looks pretty close. I will take the head to machine shop to surface and maybe even check for cracks, since I heard 24 valve heads like to crack sometimes. Will probably do a valve job and new seals at the same time. Not sure about ringing the head. The T at the back of the head, what's the best way going about it. Thanks for any advice. I will probably be lining up parts for a while and keep driving the truck,  unless it gets real bad or just blows out. I'm guessing there is an oil passage somewhere up front, just not sure how it's getting pushed out, oil pump pressure? Does it have something to do with coolant, I don't think I'm using any, maybe a little I had to put about a quart in the other day, will keep an eye on it. 

Edited July 3, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

He has thread sticking above and that is not such a big deal. What I am looking at is the bottom of the nut and top of the washer. It may just be the shadow messing with me.

3 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

He has thread sticking above and that is not such a big deal. What I am looking at is the bottom of the nut and top of the washer. It may just be the shadow messing with me.

They are tite, the shadow is messing with you. When I first got the truck it seeped oil out of the front stud, so I took the nut off and put RTV in the hole and torqued it down to 150, not knowing correct spec. It's been like that for 6 years now, and finally oil is coming from head gasket. 

10 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

He has thread sticking above and that is not such a big deal. What I am looking at is the bottom of the nut and top of the washer. It may just be the shadow messing with me.

They are tite, the shadow is messing with you. When I first got the truck it seeped oil out of the front stud, so I took the nut off and put RTV in the hole and torqued it down to 150, not knowing correct spec. It's been like that for 6 years now, and finally oil is coming from head gasket. 

@trreed they sure do look silver, unless some knock off

Look closely at the nuts and studs.  ARP should be stamped into both, along with the thread pitch on the nut.

3 hours ago, trreed said:

Look closely at the nuts and studs.  ARP should be stamped into both, along with the thread pitch on the nut.

I'll take a look when I get home, I know the stud doesn't not sure on the nut. Nuts almost look a bit purple in color. 

Is there a drain plug on the block someplace to drain antifreeze so it doesn't get into cilynders, or taking lower radiator hose will do it. 

How long do valve seals usually last on these motors, would be easy to change while head is off but if they'll go another 150k I'm not messing with them, lots of things can happen between now and then. I think @Mopar1973Man mentioned something about his getting week and at 300k that's not bad. I have 150k on mine and no signs of blue smoke on start up. I will pull few random valves out to check guides for looseness. @TFaoro @jlbayes did you put new guides in, I was told pull valve out and put finger over guide if creates vacuume good if like hot dog in a hallway bad, any truth to that.

Edited July 6, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

42 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Is there a drain plug on the block someplace to drain antifreeze so it doesn't get into cilynders, or taking lower radiator hose will do it. 

How long do valve seals usually last on these motors, would be easy to change while head is off but if they'll go another 150k I'm not messing with them, lots of things can happen between now and then. I think @Mopar1973Man mentioned something about his getting week and at 300k that's not bad. I have 150k on mine and no signs of blue smoke on start up. I will pull few random valves out to check guides for looseness. @TFaoro @jlbayes did you put new guides in, I was told pull valve out and put finger over guide if creates vacuume good if like hot dog in a hallway bad, any truth to that.

Bottom driver side of the radiator is the drain. It twists and pulls out.

I would replace the seals no matter what. If the guides look fine I wouldn't mess with them. Mine were still tight (Within spec) at 188K - that was determined by the machine shop though.

2 hours ago, TFaoro said:

Bottom driver side of the radiator is the drain. It twists and pulls out.

I would replace the seals no matter what. If the guides look fine I wouldn't mess with them. Mine were still tight (Within spec) at 188K - that was determined by the machine shop though.

Gottcha on the seals, was thinking doing them anyways just want to get more input on longevity of them. Even on gas motors they seem to last close to 300k anymore. Wasn't worried about draining radiator had it out twice already. I was asking about the block. Didn't know if there is a screw in plug on the bottom of the block someplace so when I pop the head coolant didn't get in cylinders. But I think no matter what it will still get in there, I'll just shove some gags in there.

Well drove the truck a little harder yesterday just for fun since head is coming off anyway. Noticed reserve tank for coolant is low, so I put 2 Barsleak tablets in added coolant and drove it again, oil started to leak much quicker when it got up to temperature. Somehow there is a connection there where coolant is effecting oil leak. But oil and coolant do not mix. So I decided not to wait any longer and taking chances on getting stranded somewhere and started to take things off. So far only turbo came off an it's pretty rusty and swelled up where exhaust housing bolts up, not sure if there is enough beef left to put it back together. 

Also I could not find any markings on the studs or nuts that say ARP,  do they or did they ever made any that were not identified. If not what the ... do I have ...

Unless they are A1 H11

Edited July 7, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

The oil and coolant passages are very close to each other in that corner. When I blew the head gasket on the green truck it is where mine was leaking as well.

13 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Gottcha on the seals, was thinking doing them anyways just want to get more input on longevity of them. Even on gas motors they seem to last close to 300k anymore. Wasn't worried about draining radiator had it out twice already. I was asking about the block. Didn't know if there is a screw in plug on the bottom of the block someplace so when I pop the head coolant didn't get in cylinders. But I think no matter what it will still get in there, I'll just shove some gags in there.

If you start the radiator draining then pull the thermostat housing and thermostat it'll drain the block as the radiator drains. you only need it below the head anyway.

What do you guys think on the turbo I got

May be somewhat difficult to disassemble!

23 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

What do you guys think on the turbo I got

The turbo looks rough. It depends on how bad it falls apart as you take it apart. Hopefully the housing is salvageable.

Might be easier to look around for another HX35 (or even a super b)..  That's gonna be a nightmare and a half to mess with.  

I'm not too worried about disassembling it I'm worried about assembling a back and if rust is all that's holding it together I probably should let it be, it still works fine. And like you guys said start looking for a different one.

The inside of the compressor housing looks very clean to me, so at least you don't have an oil leak there.  I understand the desire to rebuild it since it's out, but to your point, if it's working fine it may be unnecessary.  Unless a swelled housing really bothers you, the cheapest route would be to put it back on.  

Start soaking the housing in atf.

Ideally I need a new or newer housing that is machined for hx40 turbine to make it a hibryd, isn't it how a hibryd is made? @Mopar1973Man that turbo you got from one of the guys on this site ended up being a hibryd. Did it look like hx35 and the only thing was the exhaust turbine was different size then your old one? I'm guessing exhaust housing was machined to fit bigger wheel. 

 

The hybrid part happens on the compressor side. It utilizes the same exhaust housing and turbine as the HX35, and the compressor housing and backing plate are machined to fit a HX40 compressor wheel.  

http://www.gillettdiesel.com/turbochargerspartsandupgrades-4.aspx

 

You're better off buying a new turbo or finding a craigslist special, from an overall cost stand point. But it can be fun to try different parts.