Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I get the head off without removing studs looks pretty close. I will take the head to machine shop to surface and maybe even check for cracks, since I heard 24 valve heads like to crack sometimes. Will probably do a valve job and new seals at the same time. Not sure about ringing the head. The T at the back of the head, what's the best way going about it. Thanks for any advice. I will probably be lining up parts for a while and keep driving the truck,  unless it gets real bad or just blows out. I'm guessing there is an oil passage somewhere up front, just not sure how it's getting pushed out, oil pump pressure? Does it have something to do with coolant, I don't think I'm using any, maybe a little I had to put about a quart in the other day, will keep an eye on it. 

Edited July 3, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

22 minutes ago, trreed said:

from my understanding of DAP's writeup on it, it's a 60/58/not specified.  Which I'm not sure how they get away with that, as I would think it has pretty bad surging issues.  But it has the same v-band as your current HX has, so you could use your exhaust brake with it

I just looked at it too on dap site and yeah, exhaust housing is 18.2 cm also, thing must be laggy. And I was expecting it to be at least 62/65/12 or 14 with 3" flange for my exhaust break, for $1000 got to be something better. Seen few on ebay used I could go through with a rebuilt kit but if it's not much better than what I got, no reason to. I need a stock hx40 with 60mm compressor, so I can rob parts of it. Wouldn't need to machine bearing housing then either. Just combine parts, and I'll be happy with 75hp injectors and eb.

Edited July 11, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

Ohhh, so that's how they prevent barking.  They made it so it never spools!

17 minutes ago, trreed said:

Ohhh, so that's how they prevent barking.  They made it so it never spools!

Lol, I'm just learning this crap and not liking it already. Just ways to throw money at something someone thought would work. Need a proven set up for what I'm after. Even if I went with a different turbo and got rid of eb which I don't want to do, love the look on people's face when I use it. Like where is that semi...., then I still need different down pipe plumbing probably bigger sticks mpg is going by by, etc. I need this truck to last next 50 years or till diesel is still legal. 

Edited July 11, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

No cracks, , I guess pressure testing was not in the quote. That's another 125 he thinks it looks good enough and no cracks and not as nearly abused as some 24 valve heads he seen. Said it's up to me but he would probably skip it if I was him. He said if I didn't bobble in coolant and lose any coolant then probably ok.  Man I don't know what's another 125. Maybe I'll call him back and see if I can be 1000 even out the door then I'll do it. Just seems like a lot to do guides and plane clean flex pressure, is this a normal price? @TFaoro @jlbayes @trreed

I think the extra 125 would be worth it, especially if you can make it an even $1000.  I only have experience with LS heads, which turned out to be super cheap to completely go through.  If I remember correctly @TFaoro, wasn't your total bill around $1200-$1300 for your head?

Edited July 11, 20177 yr by trreed

1 hour ago, trreed said:

I think the extra 125 would be worth it, especially if you can make it an even $1000.  I only have experience with LS heads, which turned out to be super cheap to completely go through.  If I remember correctly @TFaoro, wasn't your total bill around $1200-$1300 for your head?

If that's the case then I'm getting a pretty good deal considering Tyler didn't have his guides redone, but he did do fire Rings that's about 200. Is there special guides to put in these heads, he said they were brass coated or something. 

 

 

 

Can someone remind me on how to fix fuel return T at back of the head, is there o rings in there or compression fittings. 

Also going to do tapped cover gasket is felpro ok it's 20 bucks and comes with grommets, used to like their stuff.

Another thing is torque spec on all the crap I took off, is there a link to that and injection pump removal and torque on that nut, how do you keep it from turning when torqueing. 

O yeah did some reading on these A1H11 head bolts and most say final torque is 130-140 and warm motor. Some use block heater, but that means I need to put antifreeze in. I can cold torque to 90 or so and then put antifreeze in. But its been 90 ambient here so  it wont be that cold. Few times I've fired up motor for about a minute with no coolant so the gaskets get stock better, some rumor out there. Never blew them out ether. 

I know I'm asking a lot, but been kinda crazy here with everything going on. 

Thank you gents

Edited July 11, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

I am not the person to ask about valve guides lol.  I have no idea. @TFaoro and @jlbayes are the best of the best.

 

I can answer some of your other questions:

The fuel return T has three o-rings in there.  I'll see if i can find a link to them, as I've seen a link before (though I am drinking, so it might take a while).

I'm running a fel-pro tappet cover gasket too.  No issues.

Just about all of the stuff you took off to get the head off has torque specs of 18 ft-lbs.  Injector hold downs are 89 in lbs.  The VP nut is 125 ft lbs.  Since your head is off, the way to stop the motor from turning is to use a barring tool.  There's a plug in the bellhousing adaptor on the passenger side that a 15/16 socket (I think) fits in and stops the crank from turning.

For your head studs, I would torque them to 125 ft lbs, run the motor through a few heat cycles of cold to op. temp, and then completely loosen each stud and retorque to 125-130 ft lbs.  

Update: Found the link! http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=615427

Though they are $18 each.  Most of the threads surrounding this topic involves 1/4" long fuel line as a replacement grommet.

Edited July 11, 20177 yr by trreed

18 bucks!!??

 

Use this link! https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-3905351-fuel-return-line-grommet/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts

Look at you go!

I just read that Cummins sells them for around $8, if you happen to have a Cummins location close-ish to you @Dieselfuture

I have cummins not far from work, I'll see if he can find that oring by genos number, I'm going there tomorrow for a injection pump o ring anyway. Man that tapped cover is very easily accessible without the head but I haven't even tried taking a bolt out to see if it hits vp.

I'll double check what the part number is on the bag when I get home. I'm pretty sure I kept it just for this purpose, and it did come in a Cummins labeled bag.

You might be able to sneak that front bolt out.  They aren't very long.  I've heard of one guy who has done the replacement without taking the VP off.  Though the issue you might run into is getting the physical cover out with the VP still on

7 minutes ago, trreed said:

You might be able to sneak that front bolt out.  They aren't very long.  I've heard of one guy who has done the replacement without taking the VP off.  Though the issue you might run into is getting the physical cover out with the VP still on

I'll get the oring for vp tomorrow just in case it's 4 bucks and attempt to change that gasket without removing vp and if all fails at this point it's pretty easy to get off.

11 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I'm going there tomorrow for a injection pump o ring anyway

You shouldn't need to replace that o-ring.  It has sealant on it that works well multiple times.

But $4 is not as expensive as I was thinking it was

That grommet from genos for 10 bucks is 11 at cummins so I'll get them too. Thanks guys.

Interesting the prices went up $3.  My bad.

42 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

That grommet from genos for 10 bucks is 11 at cummins so I'll get them too. Thanks guys.

 

Looks like you got it settled but here's pics anyways! Looks like it came with 3 so it's not 9 bucks each grommet

 

This is the shop I'vebeen going to for the past 15 years at least, incase someone ia curious. 

http://drenginesmachine.com/home/2872543

My head was 1300 or 1350... something like that. 

My guides were fine iirc. The valves were pretty tight within the guides. 

I had O rings installed (Fire rings are a different story) I think the extra was $150.

The big money for me was in the exhaust and intake seats. I had them set to a custom depth, hardened exhaust seats, and new intake seats put in. 

5 hours ago, TFaoro said:

My head was 1300 or 1350... something like that. 

My guides were fine iirc. The valves were pretty tight within the guides. 

I had O rings installed (Fire rings are a different story) I think the extra was $150.

The big money for me was in the exhaust and intake seats. I had them set to a custom depth, hardened exhaust seats, and new intake seats put in. 

Did you put exhaust valves in where intake ones were, so you have all exhaust valves now. I though these seats were already hardened, maybe not. Why change valve depth, what do you gain.