Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I get the head off without removing studs looks pretty close. I will take the head to machine shop to surface and maybe even check for cracks, since I heard 24 valve heads like to crack sometimes. Will probably do a valve job and new seals at the same time. Not sure about ringing the head. The T at the back of the head, what's the best way going about it. Thanks for any advice. I will probably be lining up parts for a while and keep driving the truck,  unless it gets real bad or just blows out. I'm guessing there is an oil passage somewhere up front, just not sure how it's getting pushed out, oil pump pressure? Does it have something to do with coolant, I don't think I'm using any, maybe a little I had to put about a quart in the other day, will keep an eye on it. 

Edited July 3, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

He had a cam to try and clear.

 

Stock guides are fine, machine shop should have a good idea on what to use.

 

You must keep your egts low lol. Never seen a head not cracked lol.

 

NO HOT RETORQUES.

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Did you put exhaust valves in where intake ones were, so you have all exhaust valves now.

I don't think so.... The machine shop took care of it though, so I'm not  positive.

 

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I though these seats were already hardened, maybe not. Why change valve depth, what do you gain. 

The biggest problem with the removable seats (01.5-02 and some CR's) is the exhaust seats are made from a material that contracts more than the head when EGTs get toasty. That means dropped seats and beat up pistons.

Valve depth was changed to put a bigger cam in.

Just dropped valves and springs off and got them talked in to $1000 out the door pressure test included. He said anymore they do a 3 angle valve job on almost everything, so I'm getting that too. Hopefully pressure test comes back good then I'll be a happy camper. Starting to get over the price, hopefully it pays off in the long run.

@jlbayes yeah I try not to abuse it on daily basis, and I don't keep it above 1000 if continously puuli g a grade, usually down shift if I have to. Few times it stayed right around 1200 for mabe 10 seconds.

And yeah no retorque required on A1 H11 unlike ARP, the only thing I read somewhere they want final torque done on warm motor. I'll do that and then retorque each one of them again one at a time, loosen up and back down. How do you return a Arby's after driving it when you can't get a socket on some of them, do people remove rockers to do that. 

10 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

How do you return a Arby's after driving it

I wasn't aware Arby's was mobile.. Thought they were all static buildings!

I'm guessing your question was about retorquing the studs under the rockers, and yes, you will have to remove them to get the retorque done.

40 minutes ago, trreed said:

I wasn't aware Arby's was mobile.. Thought they were all static buildings!

I'm guessing your question was about retorquing the studs under the rockers, and yes, you will have to remove them to get the retorque done.

Got to love when phone thinks it knows better, but yes that's what I meant you got it.

No hot torque either. If you do not believe me go watch one of greg_a's yee-yee videos on youtube on a hot torque with 625s. POP goes the weasel.

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

yeah I try not to abuse it on daily basis, and I don't keep it above 1000 if continously puuli g a grade, usually down shift if I have to.

That's why she started leaking! Gotta beat it now and then to remind it who's boss  

13 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

No hot torque either. If you do not believe me go watch one of greg_a's yee-yee videos on youtube on a hot torque with 625s. POP goes the weasel.

You're going to need to post that.

I thought hx40 were all with a 60mm inducer, still trying to find something reasonable.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Holset-HX40-OEM-56mm-ind-compressor-wheel-70mm-exd-exhaust-/172760685660?hash=item283956dc5c%3Ag%3A-2oAAOSw8HBZD8-N&_trkparms=pageci%3A48198ad6-671f-11e7-89ab-74dbd1809b91%7Cparentrq%3A37a2519b15d0a99b93c01b38ffeb4d56%7Ciid%3A23

Edited July 12, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

There are a few different versions of the HX40 out there.  The one in your link above has a 70mm exhaust wheel and is too big for your current exhaust housing.

Edited July 12, 20177 yr by trreed

29 minutes ago, trreed said:

There are a few different versions of the HX40 out there.  The one in your link above has a 70mm exhaust wheel and is too big for your current exhaust housing.

I was only going to use bearing housing and compressor wheel and housing and put my exhaust housing and turbine in. I'm kinda starting to give up on this at this point, may just rebuild the one I got and put it back in till I figure it out. Looks like in not to distant future I'll be looking for a new exhaust manifold too, may just do something then. May even get rid of exhaust brake at that time, not sure yet. K27 was kind of up my alley but with 18.2cm exhaust housing not sure how it would work. Need some real life testing to compare too with similar set up. Stick, 74hp injectors etc.

 

Wonder if this is a same one as dap selling, may worth it if I rebuild it.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Borg-Warner-k27-turbo-/322396996298?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

Yeah nevermind, part numbers don't match, with dap. Probably some odd one.

Edited July 12, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

8 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I was only going to use bearing housing and compressor wheel and housing and put my exhaust housing and turbine in.

Right.  I forgot about that...  

...... @TFaoro

 

 

"hot torques are for losers" "I hot torque everything" lol, gotta love it.

My favorite part is when the cop showed up

3 hours ago, jlbayes said:

...... @TFaoro

 

 

Ok no hot retorque, never done it before ether, and never had a problem. Just always torqued things down and went back right away and loosen one at time and back to spec. So I'll just stick with that.

 

Just spoke with dap and confirmed k27 would be a good fit for my needs. Yes a bit pricy for the hp gain but much better then hx35/40 (in his words) I know people had good luck with hybrids. But a guy needs a scrap price hx40 that just needs a rebuild kit and a decent hx35 to make one. Otherwise it's not worth the effort. Plus if I go with too much power (like super B or S whatever) I'll need more parts. Better clutch, different down pipe, bigger injectors, plumbing, etc. The whole 18cm exhaust housing he said works a lot different than holeset do, it's mainly to keep drive pressure and egts down and lag is minimal. But then again I'd love to hear from someone that has one.... so basically it's a 60/58/18 and builds about same boost with more flow (volume) 

Edited July 12, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

I wonder if the 18cm^2 number he gave you includes the massive wastegate area.  The actual volutes (snail part) don't look any bigger than the 14cm I have on my truck..

50 minutes ago, trreed said:

I wonder if the 18cm^2 number he gave you includes the massive wastegate area.  The actual volutes (snail part) don't look any bigger than the 14cm I have on my truck..

I was wondering the same but hard to judge from pictures. 

I'm doing tapped cover right now and it came out in 5 minutes, didn't have to take vp out plenty of room without the head. Few questions see pictures,  

One this cover set from felpro came with 2 sets of grommets one is just metal washers (what I took out ) and the other is rubber with metal, are they for a 12 valve. So just don't use them or is it something upgraded. 

Another is I noticed a small chunk missing on cylinder 4 and a score mark on the side, can't fill it with my finger. Did something went through the motor

@jlbayes @TFaoro

Use the metal washers in the fel-pro kit, should be exactly like what came off the bolts originally.  As for the scoring, looks like something did get stuck in there or a small piece of the ring broke off.  The rule I've always followed is if you can grab the scoring with your fingernail, it's time to rebuild it.  It's hard to see if there's still cross-hatching on that cylinder, maybe it's the angle of the shot

Ok done, not bad at all with no head and at one point I was thinking, man someday I'll be changing that gasket, instead ended up taking head off lol. As for other grommets, they are too big and thick nothing would of fit back, so that answers that. 

 

And as for cross hatching ,it's still there just not as good as I want it to be. Definitely not rebuilding it now. This thing better last few hundred thousand miles yet. I'm kinda jealous of some members here having over 300k and not doing anything to internals yet.

Now doing fuel return T and to a surprise oring were not as bad as I expected, probably would of gone much longer but what's another 35 bucks at this point and not the easiest job to do when everything is put back together. 

Edited July 13, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

Funny you mention that about the  o-rings, I thought the same thing when I took mine off. It's really led me to believe that fuel T had to be pretty beat up to be the cause of a leak.

If you are gonna buy a new turbo...buy a s300g. It will leave you much better off for upgrades later. It will make similar power to the k27 with the same fueling.