Alright I know it's been brought up in past, now that more time gone by I'd like to hear more on ways of balancing tires. Mainly I'm interested in people that use balancing beeds like counteract. I used them in trailer before and honestly couldn't tell you the difference as it never gave me problems before. I also used it in a suburban of some one I know and rode in it with good results. I am now thinking of getting rid of waights on my truck and using them. My few year old wheels are starting to get that aluminum corrosion under waights on wheels so I want to use beeds jus need some more imput. 

 

Good to know. I think I might try some of these myself. Still have a vibration around 68 to 72 that just does not want to go away.

I have had a few beads get stuck in the valve stem too. I try to eliminate the issue by filling the tire with air for a couple seconds before I go to deflate it. I haven't had an issue doing it that way, but I have forgotten a few times and it's pretty rare to get a bead into the valve stem. 

On ‎8‎/‎2‎/‎2017 at 5:57 PM, Dieselfuture said:

After I got done with tires,  I put new front abs sensors in and regressed my front wheel bearings. Pumped grease in through grease zerk and rotated bearing till it was clean then I used old vacuum and sucked all access grease out. Still have break abs light on, may have to go through several key cycles to get rid of it, if not then who cares it's still tite and greased. One sensor came out in 2 pieces. 

I did not know there is a zirk fitting in that location... Or is that something you added custom?

1 minute ago, JAG1 said:

I did not know there is a zirk fitting in that location... Or is that something you added custom?

 

It's something a few folks have added to help the OEM sealed wheel bearings out. 

 

I'm not a fan of it... where does the old grease go? Ever pulled a trailer axle apart where they weren't ever torn down, cleaned, and repacked but they did have grease added thru a grease buddy? It's nasty!

 

Timkin states that over greasing is one contributing factor for bearings running hotter than they should too. If the cavity is 100% packed it's over greased. The housing actually feels cooler since the grease blocks the heat on the bearings itself. 

 

Intersting... Thanks John.

33 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

Timkin states that over greasing is one contributing factor for bearings running hotter than they should too. If the cavity is 100% packed it's over greased. The housing actually feels cooler since the grease blocks the heat on the bearings itself.

 

Unless you go Dexter EZ lube axles. 

 

Bit of difference where this design allows you to pump all the dirty grease out where pushing grease into the ABS hole is bad idea because you can't push the dirty grease and debris out past the seal of the hub. So no our hubs are not a greaseable design because there is no way to remove the debris or dirty grease.

Some of my clients... no matter how long I've worked for them think I'm dirty grease that won't go away.

 

Thanks Mopar for the info.

Edited August 14, 20177 yr by JAG1

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Unless you go Dexter EZ lube axles. 

 

Bit of difference where this design allows you to pump all the dirty grease out where pushing grease into the ABS hole is bad idea because you can't push the dirty grease and debris out past the seal of the hub. So no our hubs are not a greaseable design because there is no way to remove the debris or dirty grease.

 

AFIK that's how all the OEM greaseable axles are lubed (at least ALKO and Dexter). It may work OK in theory but I have seen more than one trailer where the double lip seal is the path for grease to escape over the end cap "exit".

 

E-Z Lube was designed for boat trailers where filling to 100% allows for immersion in water without a repack each time. E-Z Lube made it was to other trailers, but IMHO it shouldn't have. 

 

I also believe that Dexter and Al-Ko both state that E-Z Lube/Ultra Lube both state that use of that system does not remove or change the standard packing requirements. 

@dripley I did added grease zerks and by taking sensors out I pump grease and rotate bearing and let all dirty grease come out of sensor hole, and then I use a pretty good suction vacuum and suck as much as I can out, I would guess they are 80%full of grease when done. Better than having them lock up on hwy. I did feel them after long trips and they were never hot, barely warm. 

4 hours ago, AH64ID said:

and it's pretty rare to get a bead into the valve stem. 

I should go by a lottery ticket as I had it happen on 3 out of 4 tires in few hundred miles lol.

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Unless you go Dexter EZ lube axles. 

 

Bit of difference where this design allows you to pump all the dirty grease out where pushing grease into the ABS hole is bad idea because you can't push the dirty grease and debris out past the seal of the hub. So no our hubs are not a greaseable design because there is no way to remove the debris or dirty grease.

That is exactly what happened with mine. Kept giving them a shot a grease until the grease blew past the seals on onto the brake drum then the brake shoes. Well greased brake shoes are no bueno.

55 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

 

I should go by a lottery ticket as I had it happen on 3 out of 4 tires in few hundred miles lol.

 

Haha... yep! 

 

I had it happen more at first. It's been 2 years since I recall it happening last. I adjust pressure quite a bit too. I've been running beaded tires for almost 4 years now. 

I see a lot of different brands of these beads. Are they reasonably equal?

From what I've read counteract are supposed to be better, and people would use just about anything even ss shotgun bbs.

Edited August 14, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

I'm going to consider doing balance beads, BB's or something this next set of tires I'm sick and tired of having the last 40% of the tires turning like junk scalloping the shoulders and getting out of balance more often. Rather crazy. 

2 hours ago, dripley said:

That is exactly what happened with mine. Kept giving them a shot a grease until the grease blew past the seals on onto the brake drum then the brake shoes. Well greased brake shoes are no bueno.

 

Are your axles the Dexter EZ lube axles? You might want to look over the instructions on how to do it properly. So far no issues with my BigTex trailer which has Dexter EZ lube hubs. 

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Are your axles the Dexter EZ lube axles? You might want to look over the instructions on how to do it properly. So far no issues with my BigTex trailer which has Dexter EZ lube hubs. 

I would have to check on what brand they are. I don't remember seeing the grease come out on the hub side. The rv is parked right now and I have not messed with it for while. 

 

By instructions are you insinuating that mine came with them and I did not read them?

29 minutes ago, dripley said:

By instructions are you insinuating that mine came with them and I did not read them?

 

Umm... Did you? 

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Umm... Did you? 

I would like to say I did but I bought 12 years ago and I dont remember. I will look at them when I get home a see if there is an outlet for the old grease to come out of. I just dont remember seeing it in the past. 

1 minute ago, dripley said:

I would like to say I did but I bought 12 years ago and I dont remember. I will look at them when I get home a see if there is an outlet for the old grease to come out of. I just dont remember seeing it in the past. 

 

It's not an actual outlet per se. The grease is supposed to go thru the outer wheel bearing and feed back into the cap. The machined opening lets you see the outer bearing with the rubber cap removed (if grease isn't blocking your view). This forces the grease back into the cap. 

 

What I have seen normally happen is the double lip seal is weaker than the force required to push grease both bearings and you lube the brakes. The grease will also expand with heat and push out the double lip seal. 

5 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

It's not an actual outlet per se. The grease is supposed to go thru the outer wheel bearing and feed back into the cap. The machined opening lets you see the outer bearing with the rubber cap removed (if grease isn't blocking your view). This forces the grease back into the cap. 

 

What I have seen normally happen is the double lip seal is weaker than the force required to push grease both bearings and you lube the brakes. The grease will also expand with heat and push out the double lip seal. 

I had to go back and look at the diagram again and see what you are saying. The hub caps did have grease in them but I did manage to push the grease past the inner seal. Probably got carried away pumping in the grease and not understanding how the system works. I would have to take all the blame that.

I think sometimes if not greased regularly and not cleaning out the cap so there is room for grease to go, then grease gets hard with time and when you try to squeeze more in it goes passes the seal.