I didnt want to mix up the threads by posting unrelated information so I figured I would start a new one.  This thread is for figuring out what works and what you find your truck likes.  

 

I did some more datalogging as of late and found that a more aggressive timing curve later in the rpm band, say 2500 + rpm, seems to pull harder up top.  Previous I was running tunes that maxed timing at 26*.  I took 2 tunes copied them and ran them back to back on the same stretch of road, same conditions.   I was not using wiretap for this so I will leave those details out

 

First Tune 29* max

Quote

Race 29*
Number of Power Levels	6
RPM Limit	3700
Valet Mode
Maximum Valet Mode Power	35
Timing Parameters
Fuel Load Timing	1
Low PSI Timing Reduct	5
Timing Reduct Scaling	80
LightThrottle Timing Adv	1
Light Throttle Limit	35
Timing Equilzer
1500RPM	16
2000RPM	19
2500RPM	24
3000RPM	27
MAX	29
Boost Level Fueling - CAN Bus
0 PSI	88
1 PSI	90
2 PSI	92
3 PSI	94
4 PSI	98
5 PSI	102
6 PSI	106
7 PSI	110
8 PSI	114
9 PSI	118
10 PSI	122
11 PSI	126
12 PSI	130
13 PSI	134
14 PSI	138
15 PSI	142
16 PSI	146
18 PSI	150
20 PSI	150
22 PSI	150
24 PSI	150
26 PSI	150
28 PSI	150
30+ PSI	150

 

Second Tune 26* max

Quote

race 26*
Number of Power Levels	6
RPM Limit	3700
Valet Mode
Maximum Valet Mode Power	35
Timing Parameters
Fuel Load Timing	1
Low PSI Timing Reduct	5
Timing Reduct Scaling	80
LightThrottle Timing Adv	1
Light Throttle Limit	35
Timing Equilzer
1500RPM	16
2000RPM	19
2500RPM	22
3000RPM	25
MAX	26
Boost Level Fueling - CAN Bus
0 PSI	88
1 PSI	90
2 PSI	92
3 PSI	94
4 PSI	98
5 PSI	102
6 PSI	106
7 PSI	110
8 PSI	114
9 PSI	118
10 PSI	122
11 PSI	126
12 PSI	130
13 PSI	134
14 PSI	138
15 PSI	142
16 PSI	146
18 PSI	150
20 PSI	150
22 PSI	150
24 PSI	150
26 PSI	150
28 PSI	150
30+ PSI	150

 

 

The interesting thing is the tunes are the same except for the timing above 2500 rpm.  If you look on the graph rpms hit that 2500 rpm mark at about line 20-21, each line is ~.3 seconds so 3 lines = 1 second.    You can see where timing jumps and also where boost jumps. 

 

Now keep in mind the graphs are not exact so take them with a grain of salt, but everything appears to show that the tune with higher timing up top gives faster time to 50 mph, and a faster ramp up of boost.  The higher timing tune appeared to reach 50 mph nearly 1 second faster.

 

as always studs are a good idea, but I am fairly sure anyone can run this timing above 2500 rpm.    If people are not blowing their heads off left and right with other tuners then there is no reason why this type of timing curve will hurt with the Quadzilla. 

 

 

Food for thought, open to other thoughts.

I am concerned that 20 BAR may not show much difference in data, but I guess we can re-shim the other set to whatever you want.

maybe while I have the 330 bar out I will ship them back and have them put to 350? and then retest?

3 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

maybe while I have the 330 bar out I will ship them back and have them put to 350? and then retest?

Sounds good to me!

Maybe I should get in on the re-popping too? 

 

Seriously if it was summer time I would I could down the Cummins and then driver the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 for a week or so why the injectors are re-popped. 

 

38 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

I will get various datalogs showing as much data as possible along with videos of each setup.  

 

We should be able to compare 0-60 of each setup and see how much difference there is in power.  

 

@Carbur8tr @kzimmer  Any thoughts on what tests I should do to show pros vs cons of the increased pop?

I would assume you keep a fairly good log of actual mileage, if so I would say without changing Tunes driving habits or anything go ahead and dryvit for a full tank or two to see if the mileage is changed at all. Driving normally would also give you time and the ability to see possibly small changes in everyday driving situations. 

I dont keep mileage logs haha.  I will record cruise egt on a stretch of road going to work that is very steady.  that should tell us what is going on.  

 

 

lets not start a trend of repopping until we get some good data in.  My curiousity should not have an ill effect on others....unless they are bored like me.  If you are bored and wanna mess with this like me then feel free.  PM DieselAutoPower about it.

 

Edited December 16, 20177 yr by Me78569

3 hours ago, Me78569 said:

I dont think it would help honestly.

 

Try this , enable high idle let it idle up, then drop it into gear without using brake or gas,  does it stall still?

That really slams it in to gear if I blip throttle I can get it with out stall but I don't like to

 

On 12/14/2017 at 10:38 PM, Me78569 said:

@rogerash0  When you put it into gear do rpms spike for a split second or do rpms drop without any spike at all? even just a split second spike

 

It actually happened yesterday morning despite my best intentions not to stall my truck. I had it plugged in overnight, I have the grid heater and all that but it doesnt cycle when plugged in. It may have been 28 or 32 degrees outside.

I throw it in reverse, & the rpms drop lock a rock and the truck dies perceivably instantaneously. I restarted it, and dropped it into 1 instead of reverse. It took 1, then I go into reverse, and off I go without stalling. I'll watch the tach extra carefully next time and drop it into R just to see for ya.

 

Quote

Don likes 7x.010 nozzles. If you let it run for a few min it should take care of the stalling without having to pull the injectors.

 

Im sure your right, when I spoke to his wife on the phone she said they are slightly smaller than 7x0.011 but its not about the nozzle size as much as it is about how it flows & the shape of the holes. I quote.

Edited December 16, 20177 yr by rogerash0

We need to start data logging the stalls.  @Me78569 we need to get a spreadsheet going and record all of the data we have on current injectors.

 

IE: 

Idle Canbus values 

Stall instances

Maybe free rev canbus values or something to help compare what's going on with fueling at what point in the curve

 

 

Edited December 16, 20177 yr by Carbur8tr

16 hours ago, Me78569 said:

 

@Carbur8tr @kzimmer  Any thoughts on what tests I should do to show pros vs cons of the increased pop?

 

Highway mpg, 0-60 times, smoke output, spoolup times, sound of engine (like a percieved change in timing), EGT's at various scenarios (spoolup, idle, cruising, max boost), max boost without wiretap.

 

The wife finally managed to stall it yesterday in the car wash lineup, driving over a chunk of ice.

So

 

Datalogs and Videos of

 

1. 0-60 WOT take off, same stretch of road

2. 35-65 WOT locked TC 3rd

3. 55 mph egt on same stretch of road showing egt

4. Lugged 45 mph locked od pull to compare spool.  

 

 

 

If possible, try to listen how it sounds on factory high idle, in comparison to how it does now.. Might be able to "hear" the timing if it's much different than now

I'm going to have to get in on this also. I drive a lot of highway back and forth everyday and the curiosity is going to kill this cat. I think i will be able to get away with a higher pop since im not auto perhaps? 

I wish we could get someone on the dyno with 3 sets of injectors to see some numbers as well.  That would help gauge how much of a loss, if any, that we are seeing with the higher pop pressure. 

I have a good buddy with a load cell dyno.....

@dirty830  you on stock injectors now?  

 

 

 

@dirty830  you on stock injectors now?  

 

 

 

@Me78569yes stock other than my sig and a 5'' exhaust 

unless you are going to step up to something bigger than 7 x .010's I wouldn't bother with increasing pop pressure.

.

Edited December 16, 20177 yr by dirty830