I ve always told myself if the raptor ever gives up I'm going with a mechanical pump, and so the other day it started giving me fits and loosing pressure, I tried to adjust pressure up but the electric motor just barley running and sound sick so I just gave up on it, and ordered a fuel boss from GDP.

My plan is to keep the plumbing as simple as possible, by eliminating a back up electric pump altogether, just dont see a need for it, and if I ever have to prime I will just use the cordless drill method like on filter changes or something. (also going to stick with the factory block mounted fuel filter for heating purpose) So I plan on tapping in on the 1/2" line from tank right where the raptor was mounted on frame and install a 1/2 npt bulkhead with a shut off valve on inlet side and I have a 1/2 " threaded fuel strainer on the other side then reduced to a 3/8 jic push lock and continue the route with the directions provided, thus excluding the hobs switch and bypass valve since no priming pump will be their anymore, also I plan on installing a tee on the return to tank so it spits going into the fuel module and filler neck and hopefully reduce some of the foaming effect and also keep up with the demand in the module from the suction of the fuel boss, So any input from you guys running the fuel boss, or any input in general if this is a good idea or not 

Personally, I would keep the priming lift pump. Say you traveling during the winter time and get a bad batch of fuel requiring a filter change you might be in bad shape if the lift pump isn't there is prime the system again.

  I left the stock fule return line alone and used the metal fuel feed line that goes from the teak to the location of the factory mounted lift pump as the return line for the Fuel Boss.  I used a small tube cutter and cut off the ends of the line.   The bypass valve / pressure regulator was attached at the end previously used for the lift pump and the other to the T fitting installed in the filler neck. 

 

   I put a cheap lift pump, Airtex, in the mix.   I have electric fuel pump run by a relay but the fuse is pulled so the ECM closes the relay but the fuel pump doesn't come on.  When my VP44 went out on me I pulled the relay and jumpered the contacts for pin #30 and #87.  This turned on the pump and primed the new VP with out cranking the engine. Mike saw how I did it.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've had a fuel boss for a few years now and I have a stock LP still in place on the block.  I have heard of others using a drill to prime the system, but I haven't done it myself.  I don't see how I could get one in there, to spin the pump there isn't enough room...but maybe I am missing something. 

I hope to get this little project tackled this weekend,

Since I dont have the factory fuel pump no more, I dont see how I could have  a priming pump without adding another straw in the tank to feed the fuel boss. ( or am I missing something) since the set up I have in tank now is the dedicated 1/2" line for the existing raptor. Anyway when I ordered pump and explained it to Richard he suggested it would be easier just to delete the raptor altogether, and not create a plumbing nightmare, If I still had the block mounted pump I would probably just keep it and go with the original lay out for that set up, but since I dont I will just use this simple diagram

On 10/18/2017 at 7:34 AM, Hawkez said:

I've had a fuel boss for a few years now and I have a stock LP still in place on the block.  I have heard of others using a drill to prime the system, but I haven't done it myself.  I don't see how I could get one in there, to spin the pump there isn't enough room...but maybe I am missing something. 

I dont see how you could prime it with a drill either, but I guess I will figure it out.

i left my OEM LP in place after installing the fuel boss, i need to connect gator clips to the power leads so i can prime on the go if needed.

 

other than that the fuel boss is primary LP and since install back in 2011 or so, ZERO problems and on original drive belt.

2 hours ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

 

 

other than that the fuel boss is primary LP and since install back in 2011 or so, ZERO problems and on original drive belt.

That's good to know 

I keep the oem carter pump disconnected with dummy plugs(corrosion resistance) and only hook it up for fuel filter priming. I had the stock system when I did the fuel boss so I’m no help. I deleted the hobbs switch because it wasn’t working right. 4-5 years running strong with the fuel boss. 

got installed today, really happy with the way this performs, going to have to get used to not listening to the raptor at start up, its almost like there's something wrong (LOL)  I"m idling at 17 psi. and have 19 psi. at wot. It took a little extra cranking at first start up to get primed but after three try"s and cracking three injectors it finally fired off.

 

out with the old and in with the new

Edited October 23, 20177 yr by 01cummins4ever

On 10/22/2017 at 10:37 PM, 01cummins4ever said:

got installed today, really happy with the way this performs, going to have to get used to not listening to the raptor at start up, its almost like there's something wrong (LOL)  I"m idling at 17 psi. and have 19 psi. at wot. It took a little extra cranking at first start up to get primed but after three try"s and cracking three injectors it finally fired off.

 

out with the old and in with the new

you installed it with about an inch of play on the belt? (loose)   otherwise it will wear the journal bearings prematurely.

Yes, It is installed loose, I just hope not to loose, the belt lugs are engaged and that's about it. I was told if in doubt, a little looser won't hurt. 

On another note, I started to have some wild pressure swings like going down to 2 psi at idle after a hard and long acceleration, then gradually back up to 18 or 19 at acceration again. So I disassembled the bypass valve, it did have one micro size metal shaving in it.  I reinstalled and now have 10 psi. at idle then 17 or 18 at wot. . I'm not really satisfied with those pressures, I would like to get the idle back up to about 14 or so 

(hot) . I have heard you can get shims for the by pass springs but havnt looked into it yet. or maybe I got a bad be pass valve 

43 minutes ago, 01cummins4ever said:

I have heard you can get shims for the by pass springs but havnt looked into it yet. or maybe I got a bad be pass valve 

   When I first installed the Fuel Boss a small piece of rubber became stuck in the by pass valve with similar results that you experience.  

   My fuel pressure was16-17psi at idle and 18-19psi when cruising.  Over time the idle pressure has slowly dropped when first started from 16psi to now a pressure of 12psi when cold.  As soon as the RPMs     

come off idle the pressure jumps to 17-18psi.  After 5 minutes of driving the idle pressure is 14-15psi.  This pressure is measured pre-fuel filter. 

   Adding shims won't help.  Now your by pass valve is opening at 17-18 psi and adding shims will only increase the pressure it takes to open the by valve.   The lower pressure will not be effected.  

 

 

when i installed mine, it wouldnt hold pressure at all.  took the bypass valve apart and found some debris (white sealer tape of my doing) holding the ball open.  cleared it out and never had psi below 15-16 since. at speed i am around 22-25psi warmed up.