The truck I just got is on its 3rd alternator in a couple years according to previous owner, all have had diode failures causing the TC lock/unlock condition. Assuming that a quality high amp alternator is going to last longer than a over the counter replacement unit..

 

I was looking at nations alternators but the one for the 24v diesel looks to have a 2 pin plug on the back of it but mine has 2 ring terminal studs. Im new to dodge and cummins. What am I missing here? Does the 98 24v have one off parts or something??

9 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

if you figure it out make 2 power supplies

 

Better make more than that. Central Timer, Instrument cluster, ABS Module, SRS module, ECM, PCM, Stereo, etc. Anything electronic would require it. All these devices would need protection. 

 

Man can't a guy at least dream once in a while 

31 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Man can't a guy at least dream once in a while 

 

Dreaming is one thing reality tends always be tough. 

How often should a.c. test be done?

What I'm thinking is a separate prolly 50amp stiff and monitored source with several fused outs to hit all computer based feeds the real trick is integration into the harness cleanely I'm already working on it and it will be plug n play but you'll have to install a few wetpacks

1 minute ago, 015point9 said:

How often should a.c. test be done?

 

Whenever something abnormal occurs. My clue for my truck is the weird cruise control. It would surge above set speed and the fall rapidly below set speed. Randomly keep doing this surging and letting up. As it gets worse you'll feel it in normal throttle too. Then the typical lock and unlock of the automatics. Then its time to test and more than like its marginal or failing. You can be paranoid do it every weekend or oil change. Still in all the fact is that it will randomly fail when the diodes overheat. This is why I keep repeating leave the wiring alone do not modify because it will not mask the issue and you'll have an early warning of the issue just starting. Every time it done it so far I've driven another 100-300 miles to get home to repair the problem which 99.9% of the time was failed diodes in the alternator.

 

16 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Whenever something abnormal occurs. My clue for my truck is the weird cruise control. It would surge above set speed and the fall rapidly below set speed. Randomly keep doing this surging and letting up. As it gets worse you'll feel it in normal throttle too. Then the typical lock and unlock of the automatics. Then its time to test and more than like its marginal or failing. You can be paranoid do it every weekend or oil change. Still in all the fact is that it will randomly fail when the diodes overheat. This is why I keep repeating leave the wiring alone do not modify because it will not mask the issue and you'll have an early warning of the issue just starting. Every time it done it so far I've driven another 100-300 miles to get home to repair the problem which 99.9% of the time was failed diodes in the alternator.

 

 

Thanks for fast reply.  I for sure need to test mine.

My cruise control on long open stretches of road, my speed does increase.  

When alt went out at work, they always wanted lease Neville as replacement.  Don't know if they fit our trucks or really better or what?  Reason might even be open line of credit?

 

(Also I think I have record for cruise control.  My foot slipped off bumper and twisted my ankle just before leaving WA state to pick up mom in law in CT.  Used cane to get up to 35 mph then put cruise on there and back.)

8 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

they always wanted lease Neville as replacement.

The old one wire alternator. There is a issues with these though you going to end up with shorter battery life because the alternator has no way to monitor battery temperature. So the alternator tends to either over charge (in the summer) or under charge (in the winter time). This is why I do not suggest the old school regulators mod for our trucks either because the regulator is based on case temperature of the regulator and made for poor charging control. Hence why this old technology was dropped and modern battery temperature control voltage regulation came to be. 

 

Even my big house inverter has a battery temperature sensor to regulate battery voltage based on temperature hence why my house batteries last over 12 years on the first batch. Now learning more about battery charging and maintenance I'm betting I can make it to 15 years. 

I need some info guys what is the max AC ripple accepted by manufacturers I realize the ideal would be 0 but the science ain't flying from what I've read so far today the voltage loss at that point would be too much to even bother unless of course you don't mind running a 24v system I need a number to design to like .06vac or ,03vac I can build this little Gizmo but I've gotta have a real world figure to shoot for and it's quite possible if I can find what I'm looking for to make the unit a universal deal in line between the alternator and the power distribution block so that everything , all systems benefit and installation is as easy as 1 2 3.24 lol help any one???

Typically a new alternator is in the realm of 0.03 AC ripple lightly loaded. 

Noise limiters do not work because they do not  prevent damage to the ECM and other parts.  They only control lockup issues some.

AC should be below .03v to be considered good.  Issues and and do occur between .03 and .05v ac.  at .1v or any time you are having issues it needs to come off today.

The last Nippon's and Napa ones had .32 to .4 out of the box, about 6 of them and one was not even charging.

The Bosch if found there(Napa) had .022v ac and it has been fine.  I have put the Nippon's on before and they lasted 4 mo to two years before lockup or ECM issues came back. 2 years on the current Bosch still going.

Off topic a sec how did get the ever bleepin blasting plug out of the ecm on my. 01 I don't feel or see anything save two small bits of spring wire on bottom side

Allen screw dead in the middle.

Ty moparman

31 minutes ago, bigfish95971 said:

Noise limiters do not work because they do not  prevent damage to the ECM and other parts.  They only control lockup issues some.

AC should be below .03v to be considered good.  Issues and and do occur between .03 and .05v ac.  at .1v or any time you are having issues it needs to come off today.

The last Nippon's and Napa ones had .32 to .4 out of the box, about 6 of them and one was not even charging.

The Bosch if found there(Napa) had .022v ac and it has been fine.  I have put the Nippon's on before and they lasted 4 mo to two years before lockup or ECM issues came back. 2 years on the current Bosch still going.

 

Crossed my mind was a LED light inline for indicator.  I can't even find one that will light up enough to be visible at 03.  

 

Edited January 17, 20187 yr by 015point9

The led thing is simple enough w the right driver circuit I'm on it

22 minutes ago, outlaw7 said:

The led thing is simple enough w the right driver circuit I'm on it

 

Good luck...my very limited knowledge led me to believe more hassle than just testing.  

Only thing that came close that I  found was something using a "joulce" set up.  And it was barley visible around 1/2 volt.

 I hope your gizmo turns out great.  

MeOk boys n girls heres where I'm at so far I've found all the parts online to do it for the ripple side, warning monitor will come after but here's the question how many amps realistically do u want to be able to push because I can build one for 300 amps at 12vdc with current parts available I'm waiting on specs from one company for a choke but this puppy will deliver filtered spike protected DC powerso how many amps

Side note how much ripple to trigger the idiot light .  .09 etc

Side note how much ripple to trigger the idiot light .  .09 etc

15 minutes ago, outlaw7 said:

Side note how much ripple to trigger the idiot light .  .09 etc

 

I would leave that open till you could test against a failing alternator. I know ar current load goes up so does the ripple voltage too. Hard to tell... Grid heater alone could push over 0.1 volt. Another way is load test a known good alternator and look at what the ripple voltage is for new alternator under load. But this might be too high for a low load. 

Ok