I was going to revive an old thread on my issues but it seems ther are more than one. So I will give the Readers Digest version.

 

 About 4years ago I started having engine surging problems. It would surge about 3% to 5% and was annoying  and would set a couple of apps codes. But the problem got worse and would surge upwards of 14%. When it would go this far it would soon trip an apps code and would dead pedal. Always recovered, though it would take a few minutes. So I broke down and made my electrically challenged arse do some diagnostics on the apps and everything pointed to the sensor being bad. I bought a cheap one off of EBay installed and sure enough no surging. Ran that one a week or so and ordered a new Timbo. Installed it and bam right to surging again. Reinstalled the cheap no surging but now I have a p0222 code that won't go away. Cleared multiple times and it always came back immediately. And every so often I would get a MAP sensor code. I was not sure if the cheap apps was hurting anything so I put the Timbo back in

 Fast forward some and I decided to swap the MAP sensor with the spare I had to see if that was part of the problem. Well i broke that one and just had to stick the old one back in. I had to hit the road to go back to work and no surging and it has yet to surge since. The only I messed with was the MAP wiring harness, though I did have my hand shoved in around the ECM wiring harness at the ECM.

 Now on the trip back to Maryland I pick up another issue. CEL comes on with a p237 code and the engine is defuled and I can only accelerate at about 40 maybe 50%. Stayed that way for several miles then went back to normal. But it kept doing this on and off sporadically. This did morph itself into bouncing in and out of the defuel mode when ever I put much more than 40% throttle to the engine. No more codes either. I also noticed that whenever this happens the Scan Gauge is loosing the MAP signal.

 Fast forward to this week and I have the no start issue. I have messed with that for 3 days and after swapping the fuses around it has worked fine. One thing I did while messing with it Tuesday was grab the engine wiring harness near the ECM. I gave it good squeeze and moved back and forth what little it would move. Drove back to the motel and it ran like a scalded dog. No jumping in and out of the defuel mode and for now she is back to normal.

 My conclusion is that the grounds in the engine wiring harness that @W-T wrote about are most likely the cause of the multiple issues I have experienced over the past years. So i am going to take an extra day this weekend and see how many of them I can redo. 

58 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

No, but IBMobile might have a source.

If @IBMobile can't it does not exisexist.

                                 This will roll over your old bones and you'll feel good about it.

                                           

20 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

                                 This will roll over your old bones and you'll feel good about it.

                                           

I might have to find another drive to use it in if it comes complete.

I am not sure how much work I would get done if I had one of those...I would give it a good try though.

On 4/5/2018 at 8:48 PM, IBMobile said:

                                             

I finished that grounding/alternator B+ modification that @W-T did the write-up on.  First time took a few hours to get everything right but now I could knock that time down to a couple of hours.

 

Cut the grounds here and throw the rest away.

 

#4 gauge wire from alternator B+ to aux battery.

 

 

 

Now @IBMobile when you unwrapped that part of the loom which way does the ground cable go? How much unwrapping did you have to do?

 

As for the last photo I hope you installed an alternator fuse. The reason there is an alternator fuse is that if some moron hooks up a set of jumper cable reverse polarity that alternator will be frying quickly if not on fire. 

6 hours ago, IBMobile said:

                                 This will roll over your old bones and you'll feel good about it.

                                           

Isn’t that creeper called a “bone”

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

As for the last photo I hope you installed an alternator fuse. The reason there is an alternator fuse is that if some moron hooks up a set of jumper cable reverse polarity that alternator will be frying quickly if not on fire.

I was wondering about a fuse my self. Did not get to do this this weekend, but decided I would ask this also before just wiring straight in.

I grabbed one of these as cheap insurance. Going to be running the nations alternator and hoping it lasts a long time. 200 Amp. 

 

Edited April 10, 20187 yr by Red Rambler

I gotta give thanks to @IBMobile for taking the time to document his course of action in this thread. Really breaks it down. Thanks man. Also to @W-Tfor his discovery and ensuing work. Great stuff by both of you. 

2 hours ago, Royal Squire said:

Isn’t that creeper called a “bone”

Yes it is a Bone creeper.

 

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

when you unwrapped that part of the loom which way does the ground cable go? How much unwrapping did you have to do?

Strip the cover off until you reach the main wire harness,  ~ 3-4".  

Bottom arrow shows the ground wires coming out of the harness.

 

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I hope you installed an alternator fuse.

No,  there is no inline fuses.  It's a mater of personal choice for me.  All the Volvos that I work on don't have one as well as

any other car that I've owned other than this truck.  

In over 45 years working on cars I've seen only one moron jump a car backwards.  Nothing happened to the alternator but the ignition control module got fried which an alternator fuse would not have helped anyway.  

 I just had a new issue and not sure if it is related to the grounds we have been discussing.

 Jumped in the truck this am fired it off and all is normal. Stopped and bought coffee, fired it off again and drove off. That's when I noticed the speedo is not working and the radio is dead. Turn signals not working and the brake light is flashing. My brake and abs light have been on for a while but constant, first time I have seen it blink in a while. Everything else on the dash is fine. Shut the truck down and fired it back off and all is back to normal or as normal as my truck is.

 The only code I have is a p500. Funny thing is it only shows up with the key trick and not my scan gauge. I can see the p500 and the speedo relationship, but why the non working radio, turn signals and the flashing brake light? Grounds maybe to blame for this too?

Maybe the contacts in the ignition switch behind the key and lock.  Next time it happens turn the key slightly counterclockwise and see if the radio or turn signals turn on.

11 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

Maybe the contacts in the ignition switch behind the key and lock.  Next time it happens turn the key slightly counterclockwise and see if the radio or turn signals turn on.

Let's hope that's not it. I just replaced that a week ago, but I will give it try if that happens again.

 

Seems I am getting an electrical education like it or not.

Edited April 10, 20187 yr by dripley

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Let's hope that's not it. I just replaced that a week ago, but I will give it try if that happens again.

 

Seems I am getting an electrical education like it or not.

Sounds like me, you don't get to choose, it chose you.

I remember putting in a new combination switch in my old first gen. I went for the least expensive brand and it only worked part of the time for flashers blinkers wipers. I know this only distantly related to yours, so Just a thought.

21 minutes ago, Red Rambler said:

Sounds like me, you don't get to choose, it chose you.

Sounds like the electrical gods are going to make me pay a price to drive this truck 20 plus years.

 

18 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

I remember putting in a new combination switch in my old first gen. I went for the least expensive brand and it only worked part of the time for flashers blinkers wipers. I know this only distantly related to yours, so Just a thought.

Not that I would ever something made in China. It did just happen to be the only one available same day at the time.

Just last week I installed a new PNP (park-neutral-position) switch that was bad right out of the box.  It was a good thing I tested it before the job was buttoned up. 

Small update. Can't seem to catch a break on doing the ground wires. Rain this Sunday and an extremely ill SIL, the weekend blew by. I did wire in a remote starter switch Thursday at work since the starter acted up again. The relay is hot on pin 30 but jumping it to 87 wont start it. 12v straight to the solenoid will. The wire from the relay must be loose or something. Starter did not work Thursday or Friday but but started working again Saturday.

 

For some reason my ABS  and brake light went out Saturday after being on for the past 3 or 4 months. Brake light returned to normal operation,  blinking when the PB is on.