Does anyone have a 4x4 locking /free hub/spindle kit on their truck?

 

A guy's dodge truck in the shop has the yukon free spin kit installed.

 

He said he gets better fuel mileage and he can feel the difference driving around

 

I always thought about installing one of these kits. Cant remember what brand I was looking at

I think I'm going all mechanical for the t case, cad, and hopefully hubs. That way I can unlock everything for highway driving and when snow season comes around I'll lock the hubs and be able to lock the cad and t case from inside. As far as hvac controls I'm still working on that. Basically I have an app that I built for my phone. The app will communicate with a microprocessor in the can to activate zone controls, blower motor, and an electronic bypass valve. Basically you will be able to select a temperature on your phone and the microprocessor will fine tune the bypass valve so that the air coming out is the same as the temperature you selected. The code is all written I'm just debugging hardware right now. Regarding hydraulics, my brakes are hydraulic and I have power steering with hydro assist. Any other equipment will be a winch, log splitter, and hopefully soon a trailer mounted mini excavator, all of which will not be operating while the truck drives so the supply for these comes from a t installed in the line that feeds my hydroboost brakes.

JThe pump itself is this beast. It ran the 3x10" ram I had up front for full hydro steering while a guy was building me a high steer knuckle with a dodge Dana 60 knuckle without breaking a sweat.

You would either have to swap out an axle that has manual everything, or find the manual axle version of what you have. 

 

Most of the spin free kits use some form of D60 stuff, but since the axles aren't all D60 it takes some adapting. 

 

Aside from a spin-free kit you're most likely stuck with a D60.. but finding one with manual hubs and real wheel bearings in good shape, and the correct pumpkin placement might prove to be more expensive than a spin free kit for the axle you have. 

 

I doubt anything on a TTB axle would work, and TTB's are cheap because they are unwanted junk. 

I've read several writeups about putting the ttb 50 outside c's and everything from there out on a 60 but I have a custom made passenger side steering knuckle with a high mounted steering arm so I don't want to swap out the c's. I'm hoping I can do some modification to the 50 spindles and get them to fit my knuckles. I aim to try this weekend I'll let you know. 

 

As far as the cad there are numerous vendors that sell a cable operated manual kit for the cad 60's so that's what I'll do there. Check the sig, adapting is what I do best hehe.

2 hours ago, Scottfunk said:

Check the sig, adapting is what I do best hehe.

How do you get a way having 4 link on the street, it's illegal around here, but most cops don't know that themselves. So maybe that's how lol.

Same way I get away with having a full 5 inch exhaust with no muffler...oh yeah and a tow hitch rack on the back with an ice cooler that blocks most of the license plate. Ya drive it like ya stole it haha. I had full hydro steer for about 6 months too. Nobody ever looked twice

I guess it all comes down to, if something ever happens in traffic then the insurance of whoever may say certain things about it, because it was not original/ mortified. I often wonder about my homemade bumpers out of quarter inch steel. If something  happened they'll say you caused more damage because you didn't have a flimsy factory one designed to take impact and absorb the shock.

@AH64ID thank you so much for the ac. If you ever need help building something all you gotta do is let me know!

4 minutes ago, Scottfunk said:

@AH64ID thank you so much for the ac. If you ever need help building something all you gotta do is let me know!

 

You’re welcome! 

 

Let me know how it cools the house! 

@AH64ID got the ac hooked up last night. I figured the tonnage of my coil on the square footage of the house, but apparently there's a special allowance you have to make when a significant portion of your house is underground; turns out my coil was only 2.5 tons. Fortunately my buddy who installed it is an absolute genius and knew exactly how much refrigerant to put in the system to account for the difference. We are now once again living like civilized human beings, in a house cooled to 68°. Thanks again! 

Edited July 21, 20186 yr by Scottfunk

Over the coming weeks I'll be collecting parts to do a junkyard free spin conversion. TTB 50 spindles redrilled to match the Dodge unit bearing bolt pattern, 79-87 f250 hubs and rotors, and Ford d60 stub shafts. The last part may prove to be the most difficult piece but I'll be keeping an eye out at the junkyard and watching eBay. Keep an eye out for pictures or see Facebook.com/idahodieselconversions.com for the write-up. Currently featuring disc brake conversion for Dana 70 rear.

Denny's driveshaft sells the Dana 60, 30 spline 11.4" stub shaft for $85. I'm building a work truck not a crawler so I think 30 splines it's just fine. I'll be using a pair of those with the ttb 50 spindles, hubs, rotors, and lockouts. Total investment $270 without seals and bearings. Probably happen week after next. Let you know how it goes.

On 7/18/2018 at 7:41 AM, dripley said:

Several folks have gone to a 1 piece driveshaft to eliminate the carrier bearing. They seem to have good luck with it. I have no personal experience with one, just what I have read.

I have a 1 piece from a 4th gen cut down and the flanges changed to 1410 for a 2nd gen. I love it