Finally got around to redoing my A/C after sweating my butt off for a month. Replaced the Accumulator, Orface tube, and bought a clutched that worked from a buddy of mine, added refrigerant to it and the clutch isnt engaging when I turn on Max A/C and everything. My gauge is reading about 120 and according to my phone its about 82* right now. Anything helps, thanks!!

 

Edit: I forgot to mention the 120psi is on the low side and yes I did evacuate the system for 45min.

Edited June 20, 20186 yr by TheGreatWhite

1 minute ago, 04Mach1 said:

Pressures a little high for an inoperable system. I suspect some non- condensable gases are in the system. A good  -30 inHg vacuum for 30 minutes should take care of that. Usaully in 80* - 90* sunny days I'd expect to see 90 - 100 psi on a fully charged non-operating system.

 

Also high and low side pressures should be indentical unless the compressor was recently cycled.

I vacuumed it for an hour before I did charge it. 

How deep of a vacuum? You need at least -30 inHg to successfully evacuate all non-condensable gases and moisture.

6 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

I vacuumed it for an hour before I did charge it. 

best possible vacuum but heat is your friend, the more heat the better you will boil out the moisture, and it is also helpfull to evacuate and refitll to 1 or 2 psi repull a vacuum to help move the moisture out. Not as critical as a freezer that run in the minus 20s. 

3 minutes ago, 04Mach1 said:

How deep of a vacuum? You need at least -30 inHg to successfully evacuate all non-condensable gases and moisture.

All the way to -30

Ok. Pressures just seem a little above what I've seen over the years I've been servicing MVAC systems.

14 minutes ago, 04Mach1 said:

Ok. Pressures just seem a little above what I've seen over the years I've been servicing MVAC systems.

Well lowside never has gone below -28 but when I leave it for another hour it doesn't drop

 

Maybe your gauges are just a bit out of calibration, it's not uncommon. I have 3 manifold gauge sets at work I no longer use because of inaccuracy. Explains why pressures on both sides of a MVAC system that has not recently operated are not equal. Both sides will equalize pressure when the compressor is not cycling.

1 minute ago, 04Mach1 said:

Maybe your gauges are just a bit out of calibration, it's not uncommon. I have 3 manifold gauge sets at work I no longer use because of inaccuracy. Explains why pressures on both sides of a MVAC system that has not recently operated are not equal. Both sides will equalize pressure when the compressor is not cycling.

Yeah they're like brand new but are kinda crappy, the part where you but the bottle of freon on is junk as well

Can't a guy just change the clutch with magnet/coil instead of changing the entire compressor if nothing is leaking out of it and it's holding vacuum/pressure

I have seen the clutches on Ebay and such for $60+. Someone said they were not serviceable but it looks to me the you can replace it. Mine is slipping and I would like to open it and see if there is a shim that can be removed so it work again. But you buy a whole compressor from $130 on up to $400. Might just go the cheap compressor route and be done with it. The warranties on all of them are pretty much no without replacing several other parts along with a professional flush of the system.

Something I caught him on was the used compressor he bought had spilled out all it oil. So I'm glad it didn't fire up because it would of been a for sure black death. Then I was working at the clutch power supply check the fuse and it was blown (cracked). Then attempt to bridge 30 and 87 in the PDC and get the clutch to snap shut and no dice, just arcing. That told me the clutch was junk. Rarely have I've seen any PCM sided issues maybe low-pressure switch. 

42 minutes ago, dripley said:

I have seen the clutches on Ebay and such for $60+. Someone said they were not serviceable but it looks to me the you can replace it. Mine is slipping and I would like to open it and see if there is a shim that can be removed so it work again. But you buy a whole compressor from $130 on up to $400. Might just go the cheap compressor route and be done with it. The warranties on all of them are pretty much no without replacing several other parts along with a professional flush of the system.

I mean I already have a new drier and orface tube on so I'm pretty much set. How long is everyone getting out of a cheap compressor?

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Something I caught him on was the used compressor he bought had spilled out all it oil. So I'm glad it didn't fire up because it would of been a for sure black death. Then I was working at the clutch power supply check the fuse and it was blown (cracked). Then attempt to bridge 30 and 87 in the PDC and get the clutch to snap shut and no dice, just arcing. That told me the clutch was junk. Rarely have I've seen any PCM sided issues maybe low-pressure switch. 

But later we tested the low pressure switch and I was getting power to it

@IBMobile @Mopar1973Man have you guys heard of BuyAutoParts.com??? I found this compressor, just didnt know if it was of quality.

 

https://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/2001/Dodge/Ram_Trucks/A-C_Compressor/60-01534_NA?src=pla&pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=(ROI)+Shopping+-+60-0+-+Year+Specific&pt_adgroup=Shopping+Ad+Group&gclid=CjwKCAjwma3ZBRBwEiwA-CsblAEJ9-V0ZtEHxTTdEWSAwxj2ulS8Exe1RH4HEsTpHAv4FALAtsSYFBoCmF0QAvD_BwE

Not really.

 

4 Seasons, Sanden, or Denso. There is a 4th one but I can't find it now.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Not really.

 

4 Seasons, Sanden, or Denso. There is a 4th one but I can't find it now.

Murray?

Not even heard of Murry... 

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

Not even heard of Murry... 

They're $330 compressors from Oriellys. I could only assume some sort of quality for that much

 

So using that though I should give up buying injection pumps from DAP because their cheap and buy from NAPA (Quality in the price).

 

Make you think. For that much I can buy a Dragon Fire from DAP.

Edited June 22, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

So using that though I should give up buying injection pumps from DAP because their cheap and buy from NAPA (Quality in the price).

 

Make you think. 

Yeah you got something there..... I see someone plays Rust lol good game by the way.

Seems like a good Denso for $128..... Compared to the $250 for the same one any where else

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=993427&cc=1366635&jsn=10479

 

25 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

Yeah you got something there.....

 

Yeah, there is a few different examples like some member here are looking for ball joints and willing to $739 for a set of ball joint for 3rd gen. Like on my 2nd gen I bought AC Delco ball joints for $30 a piece still going nearly 200k miles later.  Some other member believes in Cummins thermostats and pay the $100 price tag. I would just buy a NAPA thermostat and save a bunch of money at $29.

 

30 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

I see someone plays Rust lol good game by the way.

 

Yeah just started I'm a rather Noob yet. 

 

31 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

Seems like a good Denso for $128..... Compared to the $250 for the same one any where else

 

Denso is at least a pretty big company covering a wide range of parts.