So I have a ram 2500 diesel cummins 24v. Over the past couple years I have been having issues with a ghost fault that I just cannot seem to fix. I have codes 1693, 0500 and 0122... What I get is cut out and surging normally between 30 and 45mph... I took it in and the shop said map sensor so it was replaced... the Apps sensor was replaced, the injection pump was replaced and the lift pump was replaced. Fuel pressure is good and fuel filter was just changed today. The shop also said I had a jacked up MPG tuner of which I did not put on (PO)... the chip is fully disconnected as well so it is currently running stock... What I get is at 30-45mph under moderate load the turbo will cut out and I get a dead pedal... If I move it up and down rapidly when it happens I get nothing... However if I lightly use the gas it will go through the range without surging or bucking...  In my eyes it also seems to happen more when it is warm out as opposed to just constantly or randomly... Where do I start to get this figured out? I've been chasing this since 2016... My alternator is also brand new as of march too (stopped charging).... I'm am so lost on this currently so any help would be massively appreciated...

Yes talk to Eric at Vulcan performance. Closed weekends, sometimes anseres the phone weekends, he sells the big line kit and AirDog 150 for 420 bucks. You need this at bare minimum. Talk to him tho so he can send you the proper set up.

Damn... Looks like Its sitting for a couple months while I gather the cash then... 

Why 150min? Why not 95, etc? 

The price difference between the 95 vs the 150 is very small as i rember. A little over kill in the fuel is never a bad thing.

The main reason i have the ADII 165 is because ir came with a kit to get rid of the in tank pump. It did not cost much more than a AD150. I have not priced them in while to know whats offered now. Eric at Vulcan can help you with what you need like @JAG1 says.

1 hour ago, digidoggie18 said:

Damn... Looks like Its sitting for a couple months while I gather the cash then... 

Why 150min? Why not 95, etc? 

High volume pumps have better pressure stability. So 95 GPH pump will have larger pressure swings. Like I'm around 400 HP realm and only have a 2 PSI swing from idle to WOT to 100 MPH. If you opt for a 95 GPH pump you might see 5 to 7 PSI swings.

 

Simply. If your supply volume is greater than your demand volume the pressures do not fall much. Then if the demand volume out weighs the supply volume the the pressure falls.

 

So if your looking for VP44 longevity then you need to keep above 14 PSI all the time. My AirDog 150 hold 17 at idle and 15 PSI at WOT.

 

95 GPH is good for true stock and no towing. No tuner. Stock injectors. Just stock daily driver.

Edited August 18, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

I have two 2nd gens and the one with the Raptor 100 is too weak and soft. There is that pucker factor while carrying a load accelerating uphills. I keep turning up the pressure but the pressure swing keeps going too close to 14 psi to suit me. Esp. on hot days and the VP has a little more trouble staying cool. 

 

My other 2nd gen with the Raptor 150 is so much better than the 100. Really they should stop selling the 100 all together. Its not worth the puny chicken feed savings it offers.

Edited August 18, 20186 yr by JAG1

9 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

High volume pumps have better pressure stability. So 95 GPH pump will have larger pressure swings. Like I'm around 400 HP realm and only have a 2 PSI swing from idle to WOT to 100 MPH. If you opt for a 95 GPH pump you might see 5 to 7 PSI swings.

 

Simply. If your supply volume is greater than your demand volume the pressures do not fall much. Then if the demand volume out weighs the supply volume the the pressure falls.

 

So if your looking for VP44 longevity then you need to keep above 14 PSI all the time. My AirDog 150 hold 17 at idle and 15 PSI at WOT.

 

95 GPH is good for true stock and no towing. No tuner. Stock injectors. Just stock daily driver.

Makes sense, i figured I'd ask as I see the 800hp ratings all over, etc.. I had plans to tune and go big hp but honestly, I want to keep her stock with maybe a chip for 65 extra to help with throttle response... That's about as far as I want to go, I want her more reliable as opposed to powerful.. She still handles pulling my toy at stock well here in Colorado too just looking for something suited to my needs you know, plus I was running a Baldwin filter at 5 microns till I started having the surging 

Edited August 18, 20186 yr by digidoggie18
Addition

11 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

High volume pumps have better pressure stability. So 95 GPH pump will have larger pressure swings. Like I'm around 400 HP realm and only have a 2 PSI swing from idle to WOT to 100 MPH. If you opt for a 95 GPH pump you might see 5 to 7 PSI swings.

 

Simply. If your supply volume is greater than your demand volume the pressures do not fall much. Then if the demand volume out weighs the supply volume the the pressure falls.

 

So if your looking for VP44 longevity then you need to keep above 14 PSI all the time. My AirDog 150 hold 17 at idle and 15 PSI at WOT.

 

95 GPH is good for true stock and no towing. No tuner. Stock injectors. Just stock daily driver.

 

 

 

I am reading up on the fass150... but I am also seeing that a lot of guys are only getting 14 psi from the titanium pumps and I see a lot of things says fass specs are 16 psi... did they design a way to run higher pressure i.e. 20 psi? Or will I not need to worry about it with the flow rate since flow and pressure are not proportional... if not could I run a ball valve on the return line to force a pressure increase and be safe?

Would a Raptor 150  work as well instead of going fass or airdog? How reliable are the Raptors? i see they are adjustable too...

Edited August 18, 20186 yr by digidoggie18
Addition

30 minutes ago, digidoggie18 said:

Would a Raptor 150  work as well instead of going fass or airdog?

 

No.

 

30 minutes ago, digidoggie18 said:

How reliable are the Raptors?

 

Problem is they spend lot of time dead heading and this is hard on the pumps. This why the Raptor series fail quickly typically. Now the AirDog 150 like I've got has a 3 hose return line that allows the pump to continue pumping freely without dead heading. Typically you burn rate is about 2 to 3 GPH and you've got 150 GPH pump pushing where is the 147 GPH going? Raptor is dead heading and AirDog 150 is returning to the fuel tank. 

and in the process filtering the tank as well... gotcha... Looks like I am going airdog then... and using your guys contact haha. ugh, this could not have come at a worse time as I am currently broke as ****... I may purchase an in tank pump temporarily to get me by and just push the cash away for the air dog 150 while driving the truck only when I absolutely need it and just riding the motorcycle everyday haha.

Will it also hurt the injection pump running a high flow like that without having the HP to support it? i.e. say I move to a 165 instead of a 150?

 

I have had 165 on mine for 8 years. With and without a tuner and it works just fine. Mine came with a kit to replace the intank pump and use the basket for fuel pickup and return. 

Edited August 18, 20186 yr by dripley

42 minutes ago, digidoggie18 said:

Will it also hurt the injection pump running a high flow like that without having the HP to support it? i.e. say I move to a 165 instead of a 150?

 

No. It will help with longevity. The whole idea is to keep pushing high volume of cooled fuel through the VP44 pump to keeping the pump cooled and lubricated. If you figure the average VP44 temperature on a 100*F day is about 130-140*F you need to keep it fed with lots of fresh cool fuel. The fuel tank naturally heats up too because of the amount of returned fuel from the head. As long as flow is high the VP44 lives for a very long time. 

 

My last VP44 went 243k miles when the timing piston got stuck in full advancement. (P0216)

 

4 ways to kill a VP44...

 

1. Low fuel pressure. 14-20 PSI is optimal.

2. Poor filtration. This is why I suggest the double stacking of the filters.

3. AC noise. Excessive AC noise will fry the ECM and PSG on the VP44.

4. Poor lubrication. Today fuel in the US is 520 HFRR, Bosch requires 460 HFRR or less. 

Where was yours purchased through? I keep seeing the pump setup then I have to shell extra and purchase a 1/2 inch hose kit seperately then shell out for another conversion kit for the in tank pump seperately as well... It's fairly ridiculous they can't just provide an all in one package. what did you mean by runer as well? When I install the new in tank pump if it isn't above 14 I will kick it back.. I just need her temporarily driveable in the case of an emergency is all

 

i.e. bike goes into the shop soon for a couple days... I just need to be able to drive into work that is less than 1/4 mile away

Edited August 18, 20186 yr by digidoggie18
Addition

https://www.dieselautopower.com/airdog-150gph-air-fuel-separation-system-a4spbd004

 

Full kit you can call and verify. The only thing I don't like on these is the quick connect fitting that may leak air. Some of us have called Vulcan performance and converted back to old school push lock fittings. 

damn man.... I may do that and run with that completely then... I wonder why no one shows everything included...  Does it include a line upgrade kit too? I might just go vulcan and purchase the draw straw kit too since he includes the line upgrade...

 

I made a mistake in my above post saying I'm running Air Dog Pumps in both my trucks. The truth is they both are running the Raptor Lift pumps. 2002 has the R 100 (too weak) and the 2001 has the R150.  I'm sorry as I glance at my Raptor installation manual, at the bottom has written 'Purflow AirDog'. so that how I got it confused.

7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

https://www.dieselautopower.com/airdog-150gph-air-fuel-separation-system-a4spbd004

 

Full kit you can call and verify. The only thing I don't like on these is the quick connect fitting that may leak air. Some of us have called Vulcan performance and converted back to old school push lock fittings. 

I cut those off after having air problems and got correct size stainless clamps and just old fashion hose with a clamp.

BTW, I got Vulcan performance very first 1/2'' draw straw ever built. I was Erics testing grounds.

I too have a raptor pump and while not the best answer, it seems to work fine. My reasoning was that l believe gauges are important also and with limited funds that’s what I could afford at the time along with gauges. 

My 165 was the complete kit including the in tank mod kit. Pretty sure they are still available. I did use the quick connects with no issues thus far. But i do seem to be in the minority on that one. 

 I did putchase a fuel pressure gauge later. I also purchased a big line kit since i kept the oe fuel canister as part of the system. It is good to keep it but not absolutely necessary if funds are tight. Many folks take theirs out.

2 minutes ago, dripley said:

My 165 was the complete kit including the in tank mod kit. Pretty sure they are still available. I did use the quick connects with no issues thus far. But i do seem to be in the minority on that one. 

 I did putchase a fuel pressure gauge later. I also purchased a big line kit since i kept the oe fuel canister as part of the system. It is good to keep it but not absolutely necessary if funds are tight. Many folks take theirs out.

 If i can get the kit with a purchase or the tank adapters with a purchase I'll be ok with buying the other

50 minutes ago, digidoggie18 said:

 If i can get the kit with a purchase or the tank adapters with a purchase I'll be ok with buying the other

I looked on line and it seems the 100 might come with the kit. Seems to me the 150 might be purchased that way also. I would be good to call Vulcan or DAP and talk with them and see what the pump comes with. It should be a complete kit. It is a bit vague on their sites as to what is included but a phone call would clear it up.

 As far as the quick diconnects, mine are still working fine. If i ever do have a problem or change fuel lines i would get rid of them. 

 Also on the intank pump kit, mine has a 3/8" pick up, just the way it came. I did not know a lot about this back then and never gave it a thought. I do see a 3 to 3.5 psi drop in pressure on mine. My ADII 165 has an an adjustable presuure regulator where the 100 and 150 are preset at the factory with a spring. Mine is easy to adjust while the others will require a different spring or stretching the existing one. Others here know more about that than i do. Not a deal breaker just a differnce in design. But the 165 or whatever they make now is more expensive. No matter what of the above you get the kit should be complete to the VP.

Edited August 18, 20186 yr by dripley

On 8/18/2018 at 11:20 AM, dripley said:

I looked on line and it seems the 100 might come with the kit. Seems to me the 150 might be purchased that way also. I would be good to call Vulcan or DAP and talk with them and see what the pump comes with. It should be a complete kit. It is a bit vague on their sites as to what is included but a phone call would clear it up.

 As far as the quick diconnects, mine are still working fine. If i ever do have a problem or change fuel lines i would get rid of them. 

 Also on the intank pump kit, mine has a 3/8" pick up, just the way it came. I did not know a lot about this back then and never gave it a thought. I do see a 3 to 3.5 psi drop in pressure on mine. My ADII 165 has an an adjustable presuure regulator where the 100 and 150 are preset at the factory with a spring. Mine is easy to adjust while the others will require a different spring or stretching the existing one. Others here know more about that than i do. Not a deal breaker just a differnce in design. But the 165 or whatever they make now is more expensive. No matter what of the above you get the kit should be complete to the VP.

 What would be a good sized pickup to get then? 5/8?