First a little background.

After my last trip of about 1200 miles I decided to upgrade my lift pump because the old (new) carter was misbehaving (again).  I replace the original carter before last years 7000 mile trip, fuel filter also.  Worked flawless as far as carters do. Ran about 7-9lbs FP until about 300 miles from home.  Pressure went to '0' for about 10 seconds while entering the freeway and then returned to normal.  When I got home I changed the fuel filter and then all was well.  This year the carter went to '0' again for about a minute or so up in Sandpoint, Idaho and then came back up to 6-9 lbs. Made it back home ok and changed out the carter to a fuel boss.

After changing to the fuel boss I took the truck for a test drive.  I went about 1/4 of a mile and while driving about 40mph the engine shut down.  I coasted to the side of the road and started the truck back up.  Check engine light came on.  Fuel boss gives me a constant 17 -19 fuel pressure.

Ok, go to O'reily, read codes P1689, P1690.  Crap, never had codes before.

Checked online at other dodge sites (hadn't found this site before ordering the VP, crap) they said VP44 is bad. Crap!  I figured I needed a new VP44 because I never had fuel pressure readings above 9lbs with the carter. Mostly between 7-9.  Sometimes 3-4.

Replaced VP44.

Truck running again. Happy again. I don't use the truck much around town. Mostly for trips. I have a slide in camper. 

Had about 100 miles on the new VP44. Wednesday the 21st. Went to get some lumber for a stair project.  On my way home, about 1/4 mile from the store and going 45 mph the truck shuts off again, engine just dies.  Coast to the side of the road.  Truck won't start. Wait about 5 min. Truck starts and I make it home. I park in the driveway.  About 4 hours later I go to start the truck to put it in the garage. It won't start and check engine light is back on.  I bought a code reader and it says P1689.

Today I go to see if the truck will start.  It starts right up. Starting pressure is about 7 with the carter until the fuel boss kicks in and then 17.

 

What can I check to get to the bottom of this problem?  Would it be something the fuel boss is causing or just coincidence?  I have never had any problems with the truck except a bad ABS sensor in the differential and now this stumper.

 

5 hours ago, IBMobile said:

The relay is needed if there is an electric lift pump used.  The stock system has the  ECM powering the lift pump directly.  With this mod the power for the pump is drawn from the PDC and not the ECM.

 

I too have a Fuel Boss lift pump and have the electric lift pump disconnected.   I only run the electric lift pump to prime the system. 

Thanks to both Dripley and IBMobile for clearing that up.

So I guess my next option is to drive til it dies again or not.  I am hoping for the drive option.

Edited December 7, 20186 yr by my99ram

Update:

I had a check engine light that stayed on after the truck hard started after it quit. Code P1689. Did NOT clear code.

Swapped fuel pump relay with the horn relay.

Truck started and ran with the check engine light still on.

Bought and installed a new fuel pump relay.

Started the truck and all the normal dash warning lights correctly cycled on and then off.

The check engine light cycled itself off.  I did NOT clear the P1689 code.

Went about 12 miles turned the truck off, waited about 5 minutes, started it back up, all lights normal cycle and check engine light went off again.

Did the truck reset its own 'check engine light' code?

Did I fix my problem? 

Only time will tell I guess.

On ‎11‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 7:21 PM, int3man said:

I chased intermittent Engine shutting off.  It was the relay.  Cheap fix!!

 

Michael

It is still working for me!!!!  And yes I was able to reset the Check engine light.

 

Michael

Edited December 15, 20186 yr by int3man

11 hours ago, my99ram said:

Did the truck reset its own 'check engine light' code?

 

No it won't.

 

ECM and PCM only drop the CHECK ENGINE light after about 5 run cycles that do not report the error. 

 

ECM and PCM can only self erase codes after 40 warm-up cycles. This means the engine has to start below 140 coolant temperature and rise above 160 coolant temperature without tripping the same code again. This usually takes about month and half for most to happen. 

 

Highly suggest you just get an OBDLink LX and reset the codes yourself. 

Mine has turned the CEL on its own. Just happened today. Got a 237 code when goingmto eat lunch. When I came back and restarted the light was off. The code however is still there. Gremlins.

32 minutes ago, dripley said:

Mine has turned the CEL on its own. Just happened today. Got a 237 code when goingmto eat lunch. When I came back and restarted the light was off. The code however is still there. 

I was hoping you had that fixed with your ground splice fix 

9 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I was hoping you had that fixed with your ground splice fix 

Worked fine until today but I only got the code the truck ran fine. The splice I fixxed was the 5v supply to the other sensors not the one to the map. I did not understand that one. But we shall see, about to hit the road back home.

Thanks for the replies and the info.  I have a reader and will reset the code.

Now hopefully I can be as lucky as Int3Man.

2 hours ago, dripley said:

Mine has turned the CEL on its own. Just happened today. Got a 237 code when goingmto eat lunch. When I came back and restarted the light was off. The code however is still there. Gremlins.

 

Again... Codes can't self erase till 40 warm up cycles occur. This means cooldown below 140*F and warm up past 160*F 40 times before the codes erase.

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Again... Codes can't self erase till 40 warm up cycles occur. This means cooldown below 140*F and warm up past 160*F 40 times before the codes erase.

Again, I still have the code, you Idaho potato farmer you!!

 

Kidding aside, i have had some codes self erase but never tried to count any cycles. I do believe you, just lazy sometimes.