I pulled an 18 foot trailer with 2 razors and other miscellaneous stuff today on a 80% highway about an hour each way. I was running 70-75 most of the time. Until the hills if they were 6 or 7% grade I would lose speed sometimes down to 60mph. Now if I pushed the go pedal nothing happened untill it kicked down and was screaming and starting to haul a$$. Now my brothers 99 with a built trans, 100 horse injectors and an edge ez. Don't have this issue. He just mashes a little and rolls on.  Is it normal or something a tuner could help? Or am I asking for more than I should be? I ain't saying it was horrible just that it started to lose speed when I didn't expect it to. No loss of power or dead pedal just not picking up speed.  Sorry for the long post.

Edited December 23, 20186 yr by Unreal Summit

9 hours ago, IBMobile said:

@Dynamic Would you be open to people sending their valve body in for modification and if so what would be the approximant cost be?

Yep. That's what I do...

https://dynamictransparts.com/dodge-transmission-parts-47re-48re-68rfe/dodge-valve-bodies/dynamic-hd-towing-valve-body

2 hours ago, 2000Ram2500 said:

So from the sounds of it i probably dont already have the ability to lock 2nd. I will have to ask a friend of mine who built it then. As far as i know i've got all Transtar internals with a transtar billet triple disc converter and a transgo shift kit (not sure if theres even any other brands of 47re shift kits)

 

Im sure i could ask him and see if he remembers exactly but there a busy shop. He's gonna stab me if i tell him i want to do another lockup switch. He swears thats what killed my transmission but i think its because i had to haul my other friends fully loaded f250 (powerstroke, giant camper, steel trailer, all of his things in his bed plus everything in else in my bed) back across Palomar mtn he was half way to Ocotillo wells when he lost a fuel line and my trans was still bone stock (absolutely no gauges at the time either but at least it was cold out). 

 

If memory serves me right, if i had a bone stock trans at the time but with a lockup switch and got cruising at around 20-22 mph (idk rpms) enough to actually shift into 2nd then hit the switch and had it react would that be a rough forced shift to 3rd and not 2-lock. I remember trying to do 2nd gear but its been over a year and a half ago now and i cant remember but i do remember a lower speed jerk into either lockup or the next gear and a check engine light because i did it the way where they say to remove the relay and hotwire the pins with a jumper wire and wire in a switch to ground for the torque converter lockup circuit.

A stock 47RE valve body will lock the converter (with an external switch) in 2nd gear. (It will not lock in Manual 2nd.) However, once it locks, the 3-4 timing valve will stroke sending oil to the 2-3 shift valve, and it will immediately command an upshift to 3rd in addition to the lockup. In other words, it will not stay in 2nd...

 

You don't have to do anything with the relay to wire a lockup switch, but you do have to run your ground through a resistor in order to prevent a code.

2 hours ago, Dynamic said:

Yep. That's what I do...

https://dynamictransparts.com/dodge-transmission-parts-47re-48re-68rfe/dodge-valve-bodies/dynamic-hd-towing-valve-body

A stock 47RE valve body will lock the converter (with an external switch) in 2nd gear. (It will not lock in Manual 2nd.) However, once it locks, the 3-4 timing valve will stroke sending oil to the 2-3 shift valve, and it will immediately command an upshift to 3rd in addition to the lockup. In other words, it will not stay in 2nd...

 

You don't have to do anything with the relay to wire a lockup switch, but you do have to run your ground through a resistor in order to prevent a code.

Did you get my message? I wanted to talk to you about sending my dtt valve body out to you and having you tune it.

8 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

Did you get my message? I wanted to talk to you about sending my dtt valve body out to you and having you tune it.

I remember talking to you quite some time ago. What were you wanting to have changed?

6 hours ago, Dynamic said:

I remember talking to you quite some time ago. What were you wanting to have changed?

 

I'm in the process of installing a pacbrake into the truck. I wanted to have you go through this valve body I have, upgrade it the correct way (other then what DTT did). And then give me lock up in all forward gears. (or unless you think 1st is not needed.), I have the a billet GP Solenoid and electronics So I'm unsure if I need to ship them as well. I know that dropping it may require a call so you know what they have installed, and such.  I also have a billet flex-plate, input and output shafts, I do believe that the rest of the transmission that DTT built in WA is up to snuff, the concerns I had before were the valve body and the stacked shifting. which is something else I wanted to see what you were thinking after I dropped the pan.  I also linked to the other thread I started in your area of the forum, because I believe that this valve body is causing my stalling issues since she stalls 5/10 times in D when cold and 1/10 times in manual 1. I'm unsure but I can rule out the TC on this theory because I believe there's a valve body issue here.

You can send your valve body any time and I can do through it. I can give you lockup in any forward gear, no problem. Your stalling issue does not sound like a valve body problem to me, but I can take a look.

22 minutes ago, Dynamic said:

You can send your valve body any time and I can do through it. I can give you lockup in any forward gear, no problem. Your stalling issue does not sound like a valve body problem to me, but I can take a look.

 

Is there any kind of line pressure testing you would like me to do before I drop the valve body for testing use? 

Also should I ship he solenoids and the other stuff with it as well?

Do you also enlarge the GPS chamber that it goes into? I've seen a thread or a write up on that as well.

You can run some line pressure tests if you want, but I don't really need that information. I'll be changing that around anyway.

 

I don't need the solenoids. I always replace them with a custom valve body, but if they're serviceable and of good quality, you can reuse them at your discretion.

 

There is no need to open the governor pressure solenoid passages. This is one of the many fallacies you can read about online. 

I may run a few tests for S&G. If not I''ll be dropping it this weekend. How best should I go about sending it to you? @Dynamic

You can send it however works best for you. I typically use USPS flat rate, but whichever one is easiest.

2 hours ago, Dynamic said:

You can send it however works best for you. I typically use USPS flat rate, but whichever one is easiest.

 

What about address and shipping information. Do you take credit cards over the phone?

Shipping address is:

 

Dynamic Transmission

8311 N. Glenarvon Ln.

Newman Lake, WA 99025

 

Yessir... We take credit cards over the phone.

@pepsi71ocean Trust me this man can do serious tricks in making the 47RE transmission do all kinds of magical things!

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

@pepsi71ocean Trust me this man can do serious tricks in making the 47RE transmission do all kinds of magical things!

 

Jon is da man!!!