So this has been an on going issue for quite some time and have hit a road block, under heavy engine load ONLY with tuner turned up it will spit/sputter best way I can explain it is it sounds like I'm bouncing rev limiter, within the last 8k miles I put on a fass pump new vp44 and a revmax trans ( trans was slipping and thought that was the problem spitting and sputtering at 2700 rpms) now she spits and sputters at all different times based on current speed engine load tps and level of tune. I've checked fuel pressure 17 at idle /14 at WOT /,  less than .075v of ac noise in alt. Have a p1693 in the pcm that stays after cleared and p1475 witch has not come back yet. tps seems to be right on the money crank signal seems good on my Solus ultra never drops off.. but the B+ voltage on the VP averages 12.1v  and will spike to ecm v randomly when ecm v is 13.8-14.1 is this normal or is this the whole problem do I have a ecm on the way out the door? Did I get a **** vp?  Any help would be nice 

Edited April 9, 20196 yr by OlPurp98
Post pic

I didn't understand that part either, canbus being reduced and then increased again, making a sort of 'S' in the tune. 

I didn't catch that the first time.  

 

I was looking more at the timing curve. Then the wiretap with 2200us pulse that should smoke like a train. That's why I wonder about the wiretap. It should roll coal. As for CANBus mine amps up to 140% or so but the very last entry is 85% in the 30+ PSI position (EGT control). Based on several hard runs and watching the backdown number this subtract the backdown from the 30+ PSI number and get your cap. 

 

Daily economy tune...

 

Edited April 18, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

So with all that being said no mater what I have done I've never seen that truck smoke on any tune I've ran since I replaced to VP (I can't contest to the factory VP cause the first time I let it rip I lifted fast and seized the rotor) is it possible I got a bad vp does that explain the lack of smoke and all the spit and sputter pop and crack?

Still need to ask about the wiretap is it good?

B+ with KOEO

That's the only way I know how to check it

I back probe The wire where my weatherproof Spade terminals meet up with the wire provided with the stealth cover

Disconnect the Quad. Then probe KOEO.

Okay I will take my power probe home with me this evening and retest and holler back with results... again thanks for everyone's help this truck has me pulling my hair out! 

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

As for CANBus mine amps up to 140% or so but the very last entry is 85% in the 30+ PSI position (EGT control). Based on several hard runs and watching the backdown number this subtract the backdown from the 30+ PSI number and get your cap

I'll have to try that

To OP any codes for map sensor, boost leaks, what's the fuel pressure at wot?

I unhooked the adrenaline and had B+ KOEO  

Here in the past few days I've had a misfire on a hot start. Misses 3 or 4 times then straightenes right out and runs fine doesn't skip a beat on factory level 2 tune but still gets more and more angry as the levels go up and really gets pissed off when I run the tune I posted earlier and still just a haze of grey smoke turned all the way up

Since installing the fuel pressure sender for the quad following @Mopar1973Mans instructions in another post. fuel pressure hangs out between 13 and 15 just cruising and wot it will go to 9 and then hop right back up after the initial draw, just for the hell of it I cycled the lift pump one time while my main feed line was off to make sure the fuel wasn't full of air bubbles or lack of volume and that was a mistake considering I only had a 1/2 gallon catch can cause it filled that up and was still dumping it on the floor for me to clean up so I feel that I have plenty of fuel going to the VP 

So think tonight has solved it all while driving the truck coming to a stop I noticed that my fuel pressure kept dropping when coming to a stop then when I accelerated would hop back up 10 secs later.. had 1/4 tank of fuel and have a beans diesel sump on the bottom of the tank when braking hard all the fuel will rush to the front of the tank causing the fass to start sucking air then when you get going the fuel will return and pressure will hop back up and stay there so I think that's why I'm having all these issues the VP has been starved for fuel alot when driving with less than 1/4 tank and that's why my truck is acting up the VP is barely hanging on and can't fuel to the adrenalines standards 

I've never seen a vehicle with a sump have 1/4 tank issue. Did you mount the sump directly below the factory fuel canister?

I try to stay half a tank or above for a lot of reasons. But ever since I did draw straw 5 I can suck the tank dry. That's without hard breaking or accelerating. Any time I know I'm going on a trail riding I'll fill the tank up. In an emergency situation or if thete is no gas stations, I can pretty much empty the tank riding down the highway.

I guess my point is, if you're playing around keep the tank full.

Well currently I'm at Rudy's season opener in North Carolina and I spoke with the guy at thoroughbred and he said he'd have a look at it so we will see what he has to say and I'll keep y'all posted 

I'm still using the old school draw straw for many many years now and no issues. I've been down to the empty mark several times. I've seen the low fuel many times too. No sump and no issue. All summer long I'm typically offroad hauling firewood. 

So I ended up drinking a little too much and never went and snagged the man at thoroughbred... but I was told to check my crossover tubes and make sure they are seated and that there is no blockages on the return side of my fuel system all checks out good, also when I was out of town walked out the hotel room and she was being stubborn had a hard start long cranks with a hit and a miss here and there was about to bleed the injectors and Bam she fired up stumbled for a min and hasn't skipped a beat since ( this was Saturday morning). Could this be VP related or was this just something stupid?? Oh and I forgot to mention when the low fuel and sump and 1/4 tank issue popped up I instantly thought the lift pump was cutting out because I was told the ecms where famous for cutting out lift pump signal on the early 24v models (this info was from bluechip) so I wired it to a key on accessory. So to wrap it all up should I just yank the VP off and send it to thoroughbred I was told to leave my cover and wiretap on there so they could check it with and without pump tap or do y'all have any ideas of something else to check because I ain't looking to go 2 weeks without my ride. 

Popping out of exhaust or intake was usually caused by wrong timing on gassers, I never experienced it with this truck so I can't tell for sure. I think it's timing related. 

Is it possible to have vp installed 180* off somehow. 

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

Popping out of exhaust or intake was usually caused by wrong timing on gassers, I never experienced it with this truck so I can't tell for sure. I think it's timing related. 

Is it possible to have vp installed 180* off somehow. 

I think that would be a major accomplishment. Maybe i need to try that one. I have BFH.

7 hours ago, dripley said:

I think that would be a major accomplishment. Maybe i need to try that one. I have BFH.

Well I know the whole key thing on VP, what if someone rotated the actual gear 180 or is just a toof or two off. 

Edit 

I suppose it could be a broken tone ring on the crankshaft, idk just brainstorming

Edited April 30, 20195 yr by Dieselfuture

36 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Well I know the whole key thing on VP, what if someone rotated the actual gear 180 or is just a toof or two off. 

Edit 

I suppose it could be a broken tone ring on the crankshaft, idk just brainstorming

When removing my pump the first time every thing I read about doing said the gear can't come out of position with the pump off. I tend to believe aftermseeing insidemthe gear case. Bur every once in a while someone would say it can move. Not sure I want see if it can just test the theory. I agree that it sounds like a timing issue but there is only one way I know to check the gear.