Drove the truck over 100miles today, hasn’t done any kind of distance in awhile.  After about 30 miles, started to feel gravelly pedals, both brake and clutch felt weird, when pressed felt gravelly under my feet.  Braking seemed a little weak too and power steering more intermittent than normal.  At about mile 40 had to brake hard compared to normal braking and the truck pulled left...  not sure where to start my chase, any thoughts?

anyone??  hoping to dig into this thing this weekend.

 

 

They sure don't give you much info. And the two pictures look like 2 different parts. I'm not sure about that flexible braided part in the middle either. I can't say mine has that or not. I guess I'm not really sure. 

 

Edit. If you click the check fit button and then choose Dodge this is for the Caravan mini vans.

 

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mop-52009195/overview/year/2001/make/dodge/model/ram-3500

Summits website sucks. Hard to navigate and poor info. Best I can tell this is what you want, but no where does it say front to back, left, right or anything unless I'm missing it.

Edited August 20, 20195 yr by dave110

Thanks Dave, guess I might need to put on my big boy britches and figure out an alternative route.  They say estimated ship date 9/4/19 and I ain't got time for that. :-)

FWIW, I got a set on E-Bay from either SSTubes or Fine Lines. Stainless set that went in very well. You could also try Rock Auto.

Rock auto does have line sets, looked at them the other day. Seems all there sets had the load adjuster under the bed figured in. Mine does not have one. I do know that mine does not have the flexible portion in it. I wish I could help but it is hard to tell from there picture if it is right for your application.

Edited August 21, 20195 yr by dripley

That's interesting. I looked on RA for lines and all I found was the rubber hoses. I probably missed it.

My trans cooler line that I ordered Sat. showed up this afternoon. Wasn't supposed to be til Thursday. I like RA.

I am not seeing lines on RA either.

For hard lines I got a mastercool 71475  flaring tool and some corrosion resistant lines in a roll in different sizes. If you get one make sure to shop around so it includes all the fittings.

Well gentlemen I might be mistaken. I cant find it on RA either. I was looking at a LMC truck catalog this weekend also and maybe I got it mixed up. RA does have flexible nickle copper lines advertised under hydraulic lines. Heard good things about the procuct but no personal experience. My apologies for the mix up. 

5 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

For hard lines I got a mastercool 71475  flaring tool and some corrosion resistant lines in a roll in different sizes. If you get one make sure to shop around so it includes all the fittings.

Brake pipes are rarely sold premade here except newer cars.... flaring tool, coil of copper alloy line in the right size and maybe new ends if they are corroded. Practice several flares of the right type, here's where the copper alloy pipe is better as it forms better.

Once happy slip the correct end onto pipe and flare it make sure end of pipe is cut clean and all burrs are removed before flaring, once one end is flared zip tie it to the old "removed" line at the end and zip tie along it at any bends to assist in putting the bends in correctly by hand once bends are done... being careful not to kink pipe on tight bends cut off any excess pipe add fitting and flare, might have to bend to fit and then put back to shape once in place. I just did the one to right front brake which on a 98.5 goes all round the front.... just buy a good flare tool and a pipe cutter, remove the burr from the middle of the pipe if using a cutter and practice... the flares and check which flare you need the are 2 but the tool instructions ought to point this out.. 

If you go this route remember brake lines need a double flare and tool to make a double flare. Simple single flares won't hold up to the pressures in a hydraulic brake system and aren't legal for road use.

That copper alloy tube is supposed to be for the double flares from what I have read about. But again i have not used any. The kit on RA is supposed flared wit fittings and ready to go, it just comes  coil up. But again I have seen the kit to know how good it is.

9 hours ago, dave110 said:

If you go this route remember brake lines need a double flare and tool to make a double flare. Simple single flares won't hold up to the pressures in a hydraulic brake system and aren't legal for road use.

Tool I listed is double flare

Just wanted to clarify so that somebody doesn't get the idea they can go to the hardware store and buy an $8 plumbing flare tool and use it on their vehicle. Could be a disaster.

I've never seen a flaring kit that just does single, Din and double Din formers in all kits here in the Uk but then again we don't use flares in any household plumbing application.  

10 hours ago, dave110 said:

Just wanted to clarify so that somebody doesn't get the idea they can go to the hardware store and buy an $8 plumbing flare tool and use it on their vehicle. Could be a disaster.

Before I knew much... I needed different size fittings on Ranger on opposite ends, the only way I could figure it out was to get different sizes lines, then I cut each one in half and slid one in to other few inches, it was a tight fit. Then I used solder  worked for few years till we junked the truck. 

20 hours ago, dripley said:

That copper alloy tube is supposed to be for the double flares from what I have read about. But again i have not used any. The kit on RA is supposed flared wit fittings and ready to go, it just comes  coil up. But again I have seen the kit to know how good it is.

Here in the UK the copper alloy tube is just for corrosion and mainly sold to classic car or restorers or people like me that know better, if a garage, shop for you guys, did a brake line it would be steel as thats the cheapest, I wouldn't touch steel brake line with a pole and I have flaring tools that will do steel, garages don't use copper alloy as it's a one time repair and will never corrode, bit like taking one egg off of the chicken then shooting it, steel lines here might last 2 or 3 years and of course the manufacturers keep on making cars out of sugar so they don't last too long cos we're all supposed to buy eveready battery cars right ??

Here OP1 is convex flare, which puts a uniform bulge for want of a better word onto the pipe, which is DIN 1 and is required for some fittings, OP2 squashes the bulge onto itself to form a double wall flange and that is Double Din or concave flare

47 minutes ago, wil440 said:

bulge

I believe it's called bubble flare 

Bubble flare or ball flare. I think a lot of Jap cars use that style. Never owned one and never will but I've heard that.