Isnt there a precision , non road crown , spec sheet for better tire wear, for a 2nd gen, '99 4x4 HD , stock hieght / no lift or other mods....  I have one piece HD tie rod

 

I know  Ive seen a better, more precise caster set up specs sheet than the "within spec" road slope spec sheet

 

 

 

Nichts / Nada ?  I remember the alignment spec sheet being posted many times

0-1/16" toe in

4* caster

 

thats about it, centrer your wheel to your liking

By 1 piece tie rod you mean T style, not Y style?

 

https://www.thurenfabrication.com/media/wysiwyg/THUREN_FAB_ALIGNMENT.pdf

'99 factory Heavy Duty suspension 'T' type tie rod...... No Y crap

 

I guess no one has a link to that spec sheet ?

 

 

.?

Edited July 22, 20196 yr by GSP7

5 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

I guess no one has a link to that spec sheet ?

 

Look above your last post, I already linked it. 

1/16 toe in would be good.

That's close enough to zero toe in. Castor is non tearing wearing so adjust it to liking and feel.

1/16” is a lot more than 0.05°. I don’t think that toe-in can be set that low with a tape measure. While OE spec is higher than 0.05°, the closer to 0.01° the better and that needs to be done on a precision machine. 

1/16 is about as good as I could do with the string method.  But on a machine then 0.00 is the ultimate goal on a solid axle...just like what your rears are at.  The factory toe in spec is probably to put outward tension on the crappy Y steering design to keep it from folding up like a pretzel...which I've had happen before. 

i set mine with a string, axle on stands...

 

for giggles, had a machine alignment performed...they had nothing to adjust.

 

the 1/16" IN, with wheels off ground usually settles...

 

Caster...does wear on parts, steering mostly as it adds drag and requires more force to overcome.

That is correct.

 

I doubt you could get tighter than 1/16 with a tape. 

I'd error on plus 1/16 side just incase actual is zero to avoid a toe out by the same 1/16 or even possibly 1/8"

 

I would not run at zero with y steering itl toe out going down the road as the suspension moves 

Yes castor can wear parts fast.

 

I'd rather change a box then fight a truck that doesn't track straight down the rd every day.

Castor is one of those things that's tunable to each person's likes and wants

On 7/23/2019 at 2:11 AM, Bullet said:

1/16 is about as good as I could do with the string method.  But on a machine then 0.00 is the ultimate goal on a solid axle...just like what your rears are at.  The factory toe in spec is probably to put outward tension on the crappy Y steering design to keep it from folding up like a pretzel...which I've had happen before. 

Can you explain the 'string method'?

1 hour ago, dave110 said:

Can you explain the 'string method'?

Sure...place your front on jackstands with the tires close to ground.  Turn your steering wheel as straight as you can get it.  Tie a string to a leaf spring u-bolt or thereabouts.  Stretch the string around the back of the rear tire across the middle and extend it all the way around the front of the front tire across the middle.  Closely observe where each side of both tires and the string intersect.  Specifically the space, or lack thereof, between the string and the tire.  Now go to the other side of the truck and do the same.  In theory the space should all be exactly the same front to back on both sides of the tires and on both sides of the truck...which would put them all perfectly in line with each other...or "aligned".  If they are not the same then you are out of alignment and you need to make steering wheel, steering rack and/or track bar adjustments until they all match.  Very similar to what an alignment machine does except they use a laser instead of a string...which is a tad more precise. 

Edited July 31, 20196 yr by Bullet

Thanks. I'm not sure that will work with a dually because the reversed front wheel sticks out further than the tire, and I'm not sure whether or not the outside dual is in line with the front tire or not. I'll have to check it out.

44 minutes ago, dave110 said:

Thanks. I'm not sure that will work with a dually because the reversed front wheel sticks out further than the tire, and I'm not sure whether or not the outside dual is in line with the front tire or not. I'll have to check it out.

Yes that's a little tougher.  Your inner dual and the front might still line up the same.  You would just have to pass the string across a little lower since the hub sticks out in the center.  Or flip your fronts around backwards and you can use the outer duals.  Definitely more of a pain either way. 

Edited July 31, 20196 yr by Bullet