I'm going to do my first transmission service. I bought a Goerend Trans Pan for the better drain plug, better drainage slope inside, better gasket according to other forum discussions. One problem keeps coming up is leaks and drips when done. So I'm wondering how so it won't drip when done. Should I use RTV to both sides of the gasket? One guy says he puts RTV on and then tightens the bolts only finger tight, waits an hour and then torques the bolts to spec.

 

Wondering too about the trans temp sending gauge port on the side. Does that accept Isspro Temp sending units?

 

Anyone ever done a Goerend Trans Pan?

 

Thanks for any ideas/ tips 

Edited August 3, 20195 yr by JAG1

I checked and your only 320 miles from me says 7hrs.

 

I might see if I can come up with a valve body. Theres a 47re on craigslist list for 500 right now

 

175 is plenty. 

Say you want 100-175.

I drop it in and it makes 140wot?

175 is good for most things a 2nd Gen will be doing. Some guys definitely need more, but that's pretty rare. It's definitely plenty for most towing applications, which is why I set them up that way. Making pressure is a good thing (to a point), as long as you can control the shifts and lockup.

 

If you dropped one of my valve bodies in and it only made 140 at WOT, something would be drastically wrong. I'll let you know the first time it happens! 

@Timd32 I'm curious to find out how you like the Goerend 15SS. I got the 17SS, supposed to be slightly higher stall than the 15SS. However, I wish it was a little higher yet to get the twins to spool from a dead stop. Nothing else to complain about though, it does it's job well.

 

Edit: I'm also running John Deere Hy-Gard J20D Low Viscosity instead of ATF. Even though it's Viscosity is close to Dexron III, it might have lowered the flash stall a little. I'm also using my crappy injectors until I have time to send my better ones in for service. That's not helping my situation.

Edited August 28, 20195 yr by kzimmer

I was curious if that would be lower due to pump differences. 

If it was only 140 I'd drop pan and get to cranking

If your pump will only make 140 psi, you've got much bigger problems.

Was just curious is all. I'd assume that  it wont be 105-175 exactly some truck more some less.

 

I'm make  more than 140 now.

 

Would be assume to drop you valve body in and absolutely love it. If 2-3 is crisp n quick I will. That's my only gripe with my current set up. I dont like 2-3.

 

These trannies aren't plug and play they take tunning.

 

I do believe there is high probability your valve body will be love at first shift. Hell maybe off idle with the aggressive pressure curve.

Specifically compared to my shift kitted valve body that I've done some tinkering with were I dont really know what I'm tinkering with

Edited August 29, 20195 yr by Evan

On 8/28/2019 at 2:41 PM, kzimmer said:

@Timd32 I'm curious to find out how you like the Goerend 15SS. I got the 17SS, supposed to be slightly higher stall than the 15SS. However, I wish it was a little higher yet to get the twins to spool from a dead stop. Nothing else to complain about though, it does it's job well.

 

I'm still in the building stages so won't know for a little while yet. 

 

But from your info, we are at the pretty polar opposites on power, sounds like you have a pretty awesome set up.

 

I went with the 15SS based on a 10k pull rating, and 215hp.......??. Pretty funny to actually type out 215hp, as I know it's not making that.... Yeah might not be even in the same book, let alone same page.

 

175 bales of hay @ 40lb per bale 7k + 2500lb wagon. Wagons might be a little bit heavier, might get some wet bales every now and then, but that is my worse case I'm thinking.

 

Edited August 29, 20195 yr by Timd32