Can’t find the torque spec for the rear caliper bracket. 2001 Cummins ram 2500 with ABS and rear disc. Appreciate any help ?? 

FSM 5-3 is where I was looking. It’s just not clear to me. 

I always just got them snug, if I had to guess 65-70ft/lb

Yeah the manual only talks about the fronts. 

 

If I picked the part correctly that is an M14 bolt. (06504691)    It looks like it says 10.9 on the head in your picture.

 

The most you should put on it is 120 ft*lb.  I would set it at 100/110 and roll.

 

HTH
Hag

Appreciate the help. Got them down to 100 with some loctite. 

Be careful. I did the front caliper frame bolts in the front with loctite. Needlessly to say the loctite and being torqued in it was so hard to remove I broke 4 sockets just using a breaker bar to remove them again. I don't suggest loctite on those bolts. Torque is more than enough to hold the bolts in.

  On 7/13/2020 at 7:56 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Be careful. I did the front caliper frame bolts in the front with loctite. Needlessly to say the loctite and being torqued in it was so hard to remove I broke 4 sockets just using a breaker bar to remove them again. I don't suggest loctite on those bolts. Torque is more than enough to hold the bolts in.

Thanks. I used the blue stuff. Hopefully they will come off. I’m doing ball joints and hubs next week so they won’t be on there too long. 

  On 7/13/2020 at 8:01 PM, BennyGGG said:

Thanks. I used the blue stuff. Hopefully they will come off.

 

Like I said be careful you might not get them back out. If it does pose a problem you need a torch and heat that loctite up to release the bolts.

  On 7/13/2020 at 8:01 PM, BennyGGG said:

I’m doing ball joints and hubs next week so they won’t be on there too long.

 

Get yourself a hone brush for your drill. When the ball joints are out you can use the hone brush for the holes and hone out the rust and pitting. Then you can anti-seize the holes so installing the new joints should be fairly simple then. 

  On 7/13/2020 at 8:23 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Get yourself a hone brush for your drill. When the ball joints are out you can use the hone brush for the holes and hone out the rust and pitting. Then you can anti-seize the holes so installing the new joints should be fairly simple then. 

I appreciate the tip. After looking at countless different ball joints at nearly $300 dollars price difference a piece, I decided on the Moog 7394 and 7397. Hope they work out 

  On 7/13/2020 at 9:09 PM, BennyGGG said:

After looking at countless different ball joints at nearly $300 dollars price difference a piece, I decided on the Moog 7394 and 7397.

Don't use Moog... No longer a quality product. I bought some CHEAP AC Delco ball joints and still running on them after 200k miles. 

Appreciate it. I’ll grab some AC delco

Oh just for a tidbit of info. I just pulled the rear calipers off to check my parking brake shoes and found out the passenger side pad had rotted off the backing plate. The pad material was trapped between the frame and the rotor. Off to buy a new set of rear pads for my truck today. This was caused from all the salt used on the highways and my travels for Mom's dialysis.