Now that I have a Quad (and now set to the correct V2 tuning!) I can see my timing, engine load, etc.  When I look around this site I see all kinds of ranges for normal timing and load percentage for various driving conditions, but most folks have larger injectors, higher pop pressures, etc.  I have reman Bosch injectors with about 30k miles on them.  I still have the HY35 turbo.  I roll down the road at about 7,800 pounds, with camper shell.  Attached photos are flat Iowa interstate driving, from 10 days ago.  The Engine Load seems high; I often see 65% on even a mild rise, such as this morning on my way to work +10 miles into the interstate trip.  At idle, my load percentage is 6-8%.

1. What is normal engine load percentage for a basically stock truck?

2. If my values aren't normal, is it indicative of a VP44 with lots of internal wear/tolerance?  Other cause?

3.  What does the yellow Turbo warning indicate?  It's almost ALWAYS present on my screen, but I see it on Mopar1973Man's screenshots, too.  Since my truck is stock, does this mean I may have a boost leak, or...?  No codes shown on my OBDLink.

 

The photos are from before I knew to change my vehicle to "V2 Dodge...", so Timing wasn't available.  My timing at these speeds varies from about 15 to almost 20 degrees, never 20 or above that I've witnessed.  My low load advance limit may need to be raised to enable advance during flat ground traveling, but I do not want to do so until I'm comfortable it is not likely to cause damage.

 

Any and all advice is appreciated.  I have not installed my temp sensor in the engine oil at this time, as with an auto transmission it's not the easiest access on the filter housing.  Has anyone put a tee in the turbo feed line to measure temp?  I put an oil sampling port in the "extra" port, but will remove for the sensor if the tee is a bad idea.

No, none of this is in the 16 page installation manual for the Quad.  While I concede this information may be in some of the tuning write ups, I missed it numerous times if it is.

4 hours ago, dripley said:

I put my AD on my truck about 9 or so years ago. Both returns go to the basket right where the pick up is. Almost 300k miles later there is no difference in how the truck runs. Plumbed like this my pressure stays fairly steady with the way you drive. 19 to 20 idle, about 16 or 17 cruising, and 15 at WOT. I dont think the return location has anything to do with that. At least compared to my truck.

 

Mine is slightly different. AirDog return is not in the basket. Mine is in the tank filler tube and my pickup is not in the basket either. It in the cooler part of the tank. So for those returning to the basket and the drawing from the basket is going to have the highest fuel temps. Since my returning fuel from the engine is in the basket I don't see the heat from the engine being the AirDog picks up out of the main fuel area and the AirDog return is away from the straw so I don't get all the foamy fuel either.  

19 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Are you full 1/2" line between the fuel tank and VP44?

 

I just did a 414 mile trip to Anatone WA to install a injection pump on a Case C580 backhoe. Never got over 120*F fuel temp and even coming home only had about 3/8 of tank of fuel still stayed under 120*F the entire trip. 

 

AirDog 150 with 165 Pump. Full 1/2" from tank to VP44

Idle 17 PSI

Cruise @ 65 MPH - 16 PSI

WOT - 15 PSI.

 

I do need to change my fuel filter getting close to 60k miles on these filters. 

 

 

Stock lines other than the 1/2" from the pump to the filter canister.

 

I guess I will just run it then, sometimes I wish I didn't have a gauge. I run it for years with just oem lift pumps (3) and an Airtex with no gauge, just wait till they acted up then changed them. Then with a gauge I have used a DDRP, and now 2 Raptors. Truck runs great with oem VP and 346k miles.

I mean what do all the 4th gen guys say? Just drive it, you can't hurt it, kinda what I have been doing

Edited August 14, 20204 yr by NIsaacs

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Mine is slightly different. AirDog return is not in the basket. Mine is in the tank filler tube and my pickup is not in the basket either. It in the cooler part of the tank. So for those returning to the basket and the drawing from the basket is going to have the highest fuel temps. Since my returning fuel from the engine is in the basket I don't see the heat from the engine being the AirDog picks up out of the main fuel area and the AirDog return is away from the straw so I don't get all the foamy fuel either.  

How is it returned into the filler neck? A T put in on the smaller hose on the filler neck? My fuel runs hot to. Pulls and returns in the basket. 

18 minutes ago, Threadzy said:

How is it returned into the filler neck?

During the install you put the return tee in the filler hose not the vent hose. Just hose clamps in. 

 

18 minutes ago, Threadzy said:

My fuel runs hot to. Pulls and returns in the basket. 

Exactly why... The fuel coming out of the head is heated to near coolant temps. Then you drop back in a small cup of the sender and now pump it right back to the VP44. Never had a heat issue since my AirDog install. Back with the old school stock pump I use to turn the filters black from the heated fuel asphaltenes (if I correct in spelling). No longer happens since my fuel temp remains low typically same as the intake temp. Still not having 1/4 tank issues either.

10 minutes ago, Threadzy said:

How is it returned into the filler neck? A T put in on the smaller hose on the filler neck? My fuel runs hot to. Pulls and returns in the basket. 

No. There is a short steel tube 1 1/2" I think with a small tube welded into at an angle, this goes into the filler hose with the angled small tube pointing to the inside of the tank. On fuel Boss website I think   I saw it.

I'd take the quick disconnect off of the tee at the cylinder head, 3/8th fuel line will push over the ridge and use a jubilee clip, take the other end to the filler neck and see what flow you have at idle, with a passenger and a bucket you could check at wot also..... do the same at the basket and you now have the tee return in 3/8th rubber, easy enough to then make or buy the fuel boss filler hose return 

8 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

During the install you put the return tee in the filler hose not the vent hose. Just hose clamps in

Sorry not quite understanding what you mean. When I get off work I’ll look at the filler neck. Probably will make since then. Thank you! 

You remove the filler neck and filler hose. The LARGER hose you cut and slip in the return fitting. The smaller vent hose is left alone. 

9 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

You remove the filler neck and filler hose. The LARGER hose you cut and slip in the return fitting. The smaller vent hose is left alone. 

Ok so I need to buy a T 1 1/2” to 3/8”. Air dog sells those I take it? 

56 minutes ago, wil440 said:

No. There is a short steel tube 1 1/2" I think with a small tube welded into at an angle, this goes into the filler hose with the angled small tube pointing to the inside of the tank. On fuel Boss website I think   I saw it.

I'd take the quick disconnect off of the tee at the cylinder head, 3/8th fuel line will push over the ridge and use a jubilee clip, take the other end to the filler neck and see what flow you have at idle, with a passenger and a bucket you could check at wot also..... do the same at the basket and you now have the tee return in 3/8th rubber, easy enough to then make or buy the fuel boss filler hose return 

Thanks found the filler adapter on Glacier website. 

3 hours ago, Threadzy said:

Ok so I need to buy a T 1 1/2” to 3/8”. Air dog sells those I take it? 

 

Came in the kit when I installed my AirDog...

 

 

 

Same straw for 15 years never had a 1/4 tank issue. 

 

What are the thoughts on returning to the filler neck during the summer, and back to the stock basket in the winter?  I'm thinking a 3-way valve or pair of ball valves, not physically moving the hose.

 

If i switched it every March and October, that should eliminate my hot fuel in the summer months and give me the benefits of warmer fuel during the winter while in northern IA, Minnesota, etc.

 

When I installed my draw straw and cleaned the basket, I accidentally tore off the fine 'screen' on the bottom of the basket and now have 1/4 tank issues in a BAD way!  Will "run out" of fuel with 7 gallons still in the tank.  Very aggravating to bleed injectors in a BUSY intersection merely because I went over a raised set of railroad tracks and all the fuel ran to the front of the tank.

1 minute ago, LorenS said:

What are the thoughts on returning to the filler neck during the summer, and back to the stock basket in the winter?  I'm thinking a 3-way valve or pair of ball valves, not physically moving the hose.

No gains... 

 

2 minutes ago, LorenS said:

When I installed my draw straw and cleaned the basket, I accidentally tore off the fine 'screen' on the bottom of the basket and now have 1/4 tank issues in a BAD way! 

I can clear the tank all the the way down to EMPTY mark no problem.

 

There is less than 1/16" a inch between the bottom of my tank and the straw when the tank is empty. Then when I fill the tank with diesel is roughly 227 pounds and deflect the bottom at least another 1/4" inch. Never had pressure problems, no wild swing 1/4 tank issues. Cool fuel temps at the VP44. 

 

 

22 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Came in the kit when I installed my AirDog...

 

 

 

Same straw for 15 years never had a 1/4 tank issue. 

 

Ok that makes since. My air dog didn’t come with any of that. I ordered one from glacier for $21. 

I have 1/4 issues as well. Not as bad as yours. Maybe moving it to the filler neck will help. No foaming and spraying in the basket. 

14 minutes ago, Threadzy said:

Ok that makes since. My air dog didn’t come with any of that. I ordered one from glacier for $21. 

I have 1/4 issues as well. Not as bad as yours. Maybe moving it to the filler neck will help. No foaming and spraying in the basket. 

 

Mine is a old 2G AirDog pump originally which lasted 250k miles and about 13 years. I got the short bed bracket so my AirDog is tucked right up behind the transfer case. Out of the debris path of the tires, warmer location for the fuel system and I've ran all the way to -40*F so far and no issues with gelling. I purchased it from another vendor in 2006. 

I guess I dont get the worry of all the fuel returning to the basket except for fuel temp maybe. I have no good way to check mine. Mine has had both returns in the basket for 9+ years. I regularly run my tank down to the low fuel light and below if I know road and fuel stops. I have not noticed any difference in the way the truck runs from a full tank down to one gallon left. Mine does have the in tank fuel basket which is much shorter than the the stock one and the AD is supposed to remove air from the fuel. I also have never seen the pressure do any weird fluctuations when the tank is low. It works just fine in my truck.

7 minutes ago, dripley said:

It works just fine in my truck.

I decided to "fix it 'til it's broke" 

14 minutes ago, LorenS said:

I decided to "fix it 'til it's broke" 

The 1/4 tank thing would bug me to know end. I would have to fix that.

2 minutes ago, dripley said:

The 1/4 tank thing would bug me to know end. I would have to fix that.

150f fuel temps would be more of a concern to me, mines 110f to max 120f,   and we just had 6 days of temps coming up from africa

23 minutes ago, wil440 said:

150f fuel temps would be more of a concern to me, mines 110f to max 120f,   and we just had 6 days of temps coming up from africa

I do think about the temps.  My last VP lived almost it's entire life on this set up and lasted 270k miles and alot idle time on the job.