Noticed today that when the clutch is engaged (foot off the clutch, "in gear") in any gear or neutral, there's a screeching/screaming noise coming from the transmission I can only assume. Clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and throw out will be 2 this September/October and if it's the throw out bearing this will be my 2nd one that started by screeching before taking my clutch out.

 

What could it be and if it's the throw out bearing is it too late to save my $1000 clutch or would it be something simple like a slave cylinder? I so think I need a new one since engages and disengages are a little rough...

Just now, IBMobile said:

You think for good customer relations they would at least give you a new bearing.  It can't cost that much in relation to the cost of bad PR and lost sales.   Oh well, penny wise and pound foolish.  

Yeah the guy even told me they bought them in bulk, and spin and feel every single one, which I find hard to believe but oh well....

One of my suppliers was selling cam belt tensioner for Volvo B21, B23, and B230 engines.  I could get a name brand tensioner for around $20 at the time or a no name tensioner they had in bulk for $5; for $15 more I went with name brand.   You get what you pay for and cheap part just makes for a disgruntled customers and extra work for yourself, 

41 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

Yeah the guy even told me they bought them in bulk, and spin and feel every single one, which I find hard to believe but oh well....

Spin and feel doesn't do much if they don't have a reasonable load, won't feel the grittiness. Things can still fail prematurely. I wonder who their supplier is.....

 

Can I add myself to the unanimous list of bad throwout bearing?

 

Don't sit at a light with clutch pedal depressed, wears the throwout and the pilot.

 

I have heard drivers (semis) speak of being told to keep it in gear and clutch depressed so they can maneuver to avoid an accident. Seems like that would get expensive in a hurry with a fleet of trucks, not to mention, how quickly do they think 80k and 70 feet is going to move? None of them actually did that though, all sat in neutral. 

1 hour ago, That Guy said:

Don't sit at a light with clutch pedal depressed, wears the throwout and the pilot.

I've also seen the fingers of the pressure plate worn down due to a bad T O bearing.

2 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

I've also seen the fingers of the pressure plate worn down due to a bad T O bearing.

I've had that too. I caught it today so I'm hoping all is good....

 

1 hour ago, That Guy said:

Spin and feel doesn't do much if they don't have a reasonable load, won't feel the grittiness. Things can still fail prematurely. I wonder who their supplier is.....

 

Can I add myself to the unanimous list of bad throwout bearing?

 

Don't sit at a light with clutch pedal depressed, wears the throwout and the pilot.

 

I have heard drivers (semis) speak of being told to keep it in gear and clutch depressed so they can maneuver to avoid an accident. Seems like that would get expensive in a hurry with a fleet of trucks, not to mention, how quickly do they think 80k and 70 feet is going to move? None of them actually did that though, all sat in neutral. 

It was something with an E? I've never heard of them before. Figured I'd go with a National Bearing Company throw out bearing.

E doesn't ring a bell. I read through a thread where SB mentioned trying SKF's, but I'm unsure what became of it. National, I think is made in India, take that as you wish.

6 hours ago, That Guy said:

E doesn't ring a bell. I read through a thread where SB mentioned trying SKF's, but I'm unsure what became of it. National, I think is made in India, take that as you wish.

What would you recommend then? I was just gonna try whatever oriellys had, being it's a $57 bearing, figured it was pretty stout.

15 hours ago, TheGreatWhite said:

Just got off the phone with them, yeah they aren't gonna do anything. Basically just said woops sorry.... Amazing.

 

That's been my experience with them. They are now using Aetna bearings, good stuff, however, their previous supplier had issues. O'Reilly National/BCA should be a good one as is Napa/SKF, however, Napa is really expensive. Link to Aetna.

 

https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr9GjA10itf1_wA2GJXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTByb2lvbXVuBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1596736181/RO=10/RU=https%3a%2f%2fwww.aetnabearing.com%2fproduct-category%2faetna-thrust%2f/RK=2/RS=uepVBMeZHjjDk_hJMbl90OGTGFo-

Edited August 6, 20204 yr by NIsaacs
add info

3 hours ago, NIsaacs said:

 

That's been my experience with them. They are now using Aetna bearings, good stuff, however, their previous supplier had issues. O'Reilly National/BCA should be a good one as is Napa/SKF, however, Napa is really expensive. Link to Aetna.

 

https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr9GjA10itf1_wA2GJXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTByb2lvbXVuBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1596736181/RO=10/RU=https%3a%2f%2fwww.aetnabearing.com%2fproduct-category%2faetna-thrust%2f/RK=2/RS=uepVBMeZHjjDk_hJMbl90OGTGFo-

There we go that's the name, Aetna! So should I be ok with a National Bearing or go with SKF? Is SKF the company you're referring to that had some issues?

If It was me, I would go SFK. That said, National seems to be a decent company. I have seen some of their stuff in railroad equipment, but the same thing can be said for Timken and their smaller bearings are not what they once were. 

3 hours ago, TheGreatWhite said:

There we go that's the name, Aetna! So should I be ok with a National Bearing or go with SKF? Is SKF the company you're referring to that had some issues?

 

No, SKF is good stuff. I think they used a no name brand

1 hour ago, That Guy said:

If It was me, I would go SFK. That said, National seems to be a decent company. I have seen some of their stuff in railroad equipment, but the same thing can be said for Timken and their smaller bearings are not what they once were. 

 

6 minutes ago, NIsaacs said:

 

No, SKF is good stuff. I think they used a no name brand

So NAPA sells SFK correct? When I look up clutch relief bearing it comes up with 2, a $130 one, and a $106 one. Which one should I get?

 

The Napa bearing is the $130, BRG is the $106 one, and that's all I'm seeing...

Edited August 6, 20204 yr by TheGreatWhite

I don't believe those are SKF. Napa usually has the SKF listed as they are proud of them. But the BRG N4070 is the only one showing for the diesels. The other one is for the V10 i think. Only way to tell is to see if it is etched into the bearing somewhere.

Yes, N4070 is the one for a diesel. Click on diesel under engine choice. They are SKF, look at the warrantee download.

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRGN4070?partTypeName=Clutch+Release+Bearing&keywordInput=clutch+release+bearing#

Just to . Dont know what you think about RA but they have the same bearing for half that plus shipping.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1840840&cc=1440064&jsn=511&_nck=HllVxRCey1%2B2aVRDo41oQcMse1xIL9SL3KmW9dQXSf%2BAJlcOi2imTXTfOFLWd%2FZ7qi3oWcgQbtVtfiosB09jyQ8jGZTDkSB2ATNp8azAfXlGusOY8PTq4Yeg7bdILE6se%2FR1ANHGq2UYrofoW7KJBfumWnqiG3LNWiQlQUOP7ehynYr8eQeU8rBqckTR0VWsNRn1P7uBmGfPzadZ8r3MmYYJ7YxvqUJKY%2BitKVJbFyqXTO2cTxnB5SQ9rPzrKkUBG4fWIDTKqkr7gDIAyXibUtu7shG%2F1W5v76j2Qq7uvpaHa4d9Vl5lq%2BcWIkbttV9EE4vT%2FNGv7m%2FngJGvznwk6e%2FDoosJqO49

pretty sure this is the one I used to replace the bearing  Valair gave me in their kit.

On 8/6/2020 at 3:01 PM, dripley said:

Just to . Dont know what you think about RA but they have the same bearing for half that plus shipping.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1840840&cc=1440064&jsn=511&_nck=HllVxRCey1%2B2aVRDo41oQcMse1xIL9SL3KmW9dQXSf%2BAJlcOi2imTXTfOFLWd%2FZ7qi3oWcgQbtVtfiosB09jyQ8jGZTDkSB2ATNp8azAfXlGusOY8PTq4Yeg7bdILE6se%2FR1ANHGq2UYrofoW7KJBfumWnqiG3LNWiQlQUOP7ehynYr8eQeU8rBqckTR0VWsNRn1P7uBmGfPzadZ8r3MmYYJ7YxvqUJKY%2BitKVJbFyqXTO2cTxnB5SQ9rPzrKkUBG4fWIDTKqkr7gDIAyXibUtu7shG%2F1W5v76j2Qq7uvpaHa4d9Vl5lq%2BcWIkbttV9EE4vT%2FNGv7m%2FngJGvznwk6e%2FDoosJqO49

pretty sure this is the one I used to replace the bearing  Valair gave me in their kit.

Well, @dripley @NIsaacs @IBMobile, we pulled the tranny out today and lemme tell you, the bearing was making some noise, but that wasnt the problem I don't think..... My input shaft has a pretty healthy amount of up and down play and has ruined my center shaft (lack of a better word) of my clutch..... Seeming how I can spin that center piece about 2-3 inches and it wiggles around. Other than that everything looks healthy!

 

So heres the next questions:

-I have a connection to get a good NV5600, will that bolt up to my transfer case with no problems, and can I use the same shift tower? I have a 241 DHD.

OR

-What will it take to fix that play in the input shaft? I assume its just that bearing in there? Transmission gave me no problems what so ever when it was running and driving, hell, it was rebuilt in '14 and probably has close to only 50k on it by now.

 

1 hour ago, TheGreatWhite said:

-What will it take to fix that play in the input shaft? I assume its just that bearing in there?

With a "healthy amount of up and down play" the drive gear bearing, thrust bearing, and main shaft pilot bearing are most likely bad.  Fourth gear teeth and counter shaft gear may have been damaged, see red arrows.

While l have a 6 speed and like it it's going pricey rebuild it. $2500 to $3000 and that's if there are no hard parts to replace. There are also crappy parts out there since the manufacture, New Venture,  quit aking parts for them when Dodge stopped using them. Just something to think about if swaping. 

6 hours ago, IBMobile said:

 

With a "healthy amount of up and down play" the drive gear bearing, thrust bearing, and main shaft pilot bearing are most likely bad.  Fourth gear teeth and counter shaft gear may have been damaged, see red arrows.

Ok well that would make sense. Every day to work, there's a decent bump in the road that is always hit and about 50% of the time it'd cause my transmission to pop out of 4th gear. Does that mean full rebuild??

 

4 hours ago, dripley said:

While l have a 6 speed and like it it's going pricey rebuild it. $2500 to $3000 and that's if there are no hard parts to replace. There are also crappy parts out there since the manufacture, New Venture,  quit aking parts for them when Dodge stopped using them. Just something to think about if swaping. 

Yeah I was talking to a buddy that had one, he has a 2wd one he wants $2500 for.... No idea how much it'd be to make it a 4wd, but he said the same thing about how pricey they are to rebuild, but this one is rebuilt....

9 hours ago, TheGreatWhite said:

Well, @dripley @NIsaacs @IBMobile,  Seeming how I can spin that center piece about 2-3 inches and it wiggles around. 

 

 

 

 

Can you take a picture of the clutch disk? 2-3" is nuts. Did you drain the tranny prior to removal? If not, do so and see what the quality is. If it is full of metal contamination, then yes, full rebuild is in order.