I have recently replaced my front brake pads. Someone let them go a bit to long and the right front got all the way thru the pad. Well anyway got some new pads and replaced them last week. I did notice some odd things, The first not so odd is the brakes pulled to the left as the pad wore thru to metal on the right side. I swapped in all the new pads and some spare rotors I had onto the truck. The left pads had worn uneven as in a wedge shape. One end was maybe 3/32 s fatter than the other and the same on the opposing pad. I have never had a set pads wear like that. After I had everything installed I took for a test spin.  The pedal took a few applications to get a good response. The weird thing was now the steering wheel is a bit off to the left. The brakes also kept the left pull under medium to heavy braking but normal driving almost unnoticeable. The pull is disappearing each day but wheel is still off to the left about an Inch.  The only thing that comes to my mind is maybe one of the pistons in the caliper is binding causing the uneven wear and the disappearing pull I am experiencing as pads wear in ?? The off center steering is a bit odd just for brake pad change. Never had this happen before. Any other ideas out there?

49 minutes ago, dripley said:

I have never had a set pads wear like that.

First remove the brake calipers, get a caliper repair/seal kit, take the caliper pistons out, clean the pistons and bores and reseal.  While the caliper are off the truck check all the sliding parts for wear rust and binding; clean or replace pins bolts and pin boots *** needed.   All these parts are inexpensive and can be obtained through Rock Auto.

 

50 minutes ago, dripley said:

The pedal took a few applications to get a good response.

Are you bedding in your new brake pads?  

 

50 minutes ago, dripley said:

The weird thing was now the steering wheel is a bit off to the left.

Swap the front tires left to right, fight to left and see if the steering wheel goes to the right.

I was thinking something along these lines too  ^^^ still weird that steering wheel is off to one side. I had my truck slightly pulling to one side one time and after rotating tires it went back to normal. But steering wheel off... something is putting drag on it, assuming you didn't touch anything else but breaks. Make sure to use high temperature brake caliper grease, don't use anti-seize it dries out and things get sticky. 

17 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

First remove the brake calipers, get a caliper repair/seal kit, take the caliper pistons out, clean the pistons and bores and reseal.  While the caliper are off the truck check all the sliding parts for wear rust and binding; clean or replace pins bolts and pin boots *** needed.   All these parts are inexpensive and can be obtained through Rock Auto

When I had the calipers off the truck everything seemed to move just fine. The sliding parts were clean and shiny matter of fact. Cleaned them up what little they needed, greased them and reinstalled them. All was working fine before this so I did not think a caliper rebuild was in the cards. Maybe now they are and the kits are cheap as you say.

 

23 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

Are you bedding in your new brake pads?

Cant say that I followed any procedure other that drive the truck. Took a few applications to the pedal in the parking lot to take up the slack from pushing the pistons in to allow me to clear the rotor on install. Nothing different than I have done in the past. Not proper but just me.

 

27 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

Swap the front tires left to right, fight to left and see if the steering wheel goes to the right

Might try that but just put a new set of tires on 1 week before the brake job.

 

5 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I was thinking something along these lines too  ^^^ still weird that steering wheel is off to one side. I had my truck slightly pulling to one side one time and after rotating tires it went back to normal. But steering wheel off... something is putting drag on it, assuming you didn't touch anything else but breaks. Make sure to use high temperature brake caliper grease, don't use anti-seize it dries out and things get sticky. 

Out of all of that I did use High Temp grease made for the calipers in the small ketchup like packs from AA. I never had a set of pads wear in a wedge that was visible on inspection like these did.  And yes the brakes were the only thing I touched.. 

And how about this. The Quad did not cause it. I guess because my Quad is still at @dieselautopower. Cant figure out why they have not sent it yet. Could a non payment or non ordering stop that from coming?

The only way pad will look like a wedge is caliper and rotor not centered. Slider  or can your caliper bracket be bent 

@IBMobile is absolutely correct. When the pistons are out and the piston seal are removed the piston should just naturally drop to the bottom on the bore without being pushed. This means there is caked up brake fluid on the pistons. I've use light grade wet dry sandpaper and take off the thousandths of harden brake fluid and check again. Some just opt for replacing the caliper I would for time issues and being fast but it is cheaper to rebuild yourself but if there is rust damage its time to replace them. Here is the drop fit without the seal. You shouldn't have to push it down either.

 

 

@dripley more than likely why the tapered brake pad was one piston is sticking nad the other was pushing still so the pad would rock over on the weak side while it wore the taper in the brake pad. This goes back to the drop test to verify the piston and bore clearance. 

 

 

23 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

The only way pad will look like a wedge is caliper and rotor not centered. Slider  or can your caliper bracket be bent 

I dont think so. Have not hit anything unless it can just bend itself. Going to have to pull it apart again and put a kit in the calipers. I will have a better look at then,

 

12 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

@IBMobile is absolutely correct. When the pistons are out and the piston seal are removed the piston should just naturally drop to the bottom on the bore without being pushed.

 I rebuilt one of them a few years back. It was a fairly easy job. Took a scrubby to the pistons and freed them up. Just dont remeber which side I did. I put a rebuilt caliper on the other side a year or 2 earlier. The brakes were and are still working ok but I am going to have go thru them both, something is not right.

 

12 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

@dripley more than likely why the tapered brake pad was one piston is sticking nad the other was pushing still so the pad would rock over on the weak side while it wore the taper in the brake pad. This goes back to the drop test to verify the piston and bore clearance

Pretty much what I am thinking.

 

 I will let yall know what I find.

Get digging... I've gotta shovel snow off mine and roll in first thing this morning.

11 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Get digging... I've gotta shovel snow off mine and roll in first thing this morning.

Me, I hope my son is working Saturday so I can use a bay at his place of work. No wind, heated and a concrete floor. I dont even have to bring all my tools.