I’ve just about on information overload In searching out this abs brake issue and trying not to parts change components until I find the problem, I do have rear brake abs along with rear drums, abs and brake light come on only after first full application of brakes and will stay on along with the spongy and week brakes, system will reset itself when I turn key off and then the cycle starts again the first time brakes are applied, they act like air in the system and it seems like I can gain a little by pumping but not much. I have not tried bleeding at the wheel because it seems if it’s leaking internally it wouldn’t do any good, It does not leak any fluid. The speedo works as it should and cruise control will not work or even illuminate on dash, I have not taken to dealer yet for codes but wondering if they can pin point a bad master cylinder or that thingy thing ( I forgot the  propper name for that) aft. the master cylinder or any other parts in the system 

Wish I could help, following to learn when someone else chimes in! Do you have the factory service manuals with the diagnostic section?

12 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

that thingy thing ( I forgot the  propper name for that) aft. the master cylinder

 

ABS module? 

 

Cruise control might be not working due to the fact that there are codes.. But I'm not sure if its that integrated in those years. I would be looking for someone who can read those abs codes and see what they are..

@LorenS I do not have access to the FSM, I do have other manuals with directions of trouble shooting some of the individual components like the  combination valve and sensor resistance which I plan on doing 

 

@Silverwolf2691I was referring to this in general, 

I did find a local shop that said he could pull the abs codes on my truck, we will see how that goes this week, dealer says they are a week out before he can even get me in 

Do you have brake lights? 

 

I see your truck has 340k on it.

Id just go ahead and change mastercylinder. Calipers proportioning valve danged near everything in the system could be culprit.

 

I did a master cylinder at 300 when my brakes quit when temps dropped below zero. 

 

I also wouldn't discount power steering and vacumn pump. Everyone says they don't effect brakes but ive learned different.

 

Id assume at 340 youve doneca vacumn pump seal and probably power steering pump but maybe not.

 

I did vacumn seal but didnt do steering pump. Now im adding fluud to my steering pump a couple times a week if i drive much. 

I can now feel the steering wheel in the brake peddle when pumpnis low brakes definitely have a different feel.

 

Vacumn pump seal, power steering pump, master cylinder.

 

Consumables that dont last forever. I was silly not to change steering pump when i had it apart.

 

 

Edited October 12, 20213 yr by Evan

@Evan yes, brake lights work

 

I understand how beneficial it would be to just replace everything due to age and mileage, but.. don’t really have the time or even the room in the shop and with winter coming on don’t want to do it outside either,  at any rate I’m determined to find the culprit, hopefully getting the codes read by a good abs scan tool will help 

 

I did my hydro boost re seal a few years years back, but getting serious and start replacing some of this high mileage stuff Is definitely on my short list next spring or this winter if I can get my truck in the garage, front unit bearings and calipers and shocks are on the short order. still running the originals (except shocks) since new. 

18 hours ago, Evan said:

 

 

 

 

I did a master cylinder at 300 when my brakes quit when temps dropped below zero. 

 

 

 

Getting to old for that stuff 

 

 

 

 

Id look the master cylinder over for a leak. Seems mine leaked alittle before it leaked alot.

 

On of, on of, on

 

I think you can cycle your key 3 times on the 3rd leave it on it might flash codes across the odometer display 

Got abs codes scanned, told me rear axle speed sencor, so picked one up and while I was at it got some new brake shoes, got home and popped  the passenger side and they looked like time to replace , I took the drivers side drum off and all the hardware came out in pieces. a bent e brake lever, and desinegrated adjuster wheel, along with a few other pieces that fell on the floor. Did I mention my Truck hadn’t been stopping worth a ***** latley, so back to the parts store and pick up new hardware, everything except the e-lever bracket, 

Drove 200 miles so far, no abs or brake light, along with flushing the old fluid, brakes feel like normal mediocre 2nd gen brakes again 

 

still no cruise control but the air bag light came on so that’s probably in the clock spring I would assume 

Yup I would assume since the clock covers the steering wheel air bag and cruise controls. Just wanna know does your horn still work too? If not I would say yup the clock spring.

I don’t know if horn works, I didn’t check, ordered one from rock auto, they seem to have the best price, and decent shipping time 

Basically you have cruise controls, horn and airbag trigger running through the clock spring hence why to check the operation of all. If seen cruise switch fail. Airbag light yeah still a good chance of a bad clockspring.