What’s going on here? First question, steering gear/ pitman arm. Should the teeth be showing? I’m guessing not. It’s torqued to 185f/lb. 

Yes there should be teeth showing. If not you not going to be able to slip a pitman arm puller up there to get the pitman arm off. So what you'll have to do is unscrew the sector adjustment and beat the output shaft out. Just a huge pain in the ... I had one of these last summer and was piss off because the extra time involved to remove the steering box, reprime the system, reload with fluid and re-adjust the sector adjustment. 

 

You are fine... Leave it alone...

Thanks @Mopar1973Man. Next question, I am moving all of my accessory power lugs on the left battery to the stud in the PDC as I’ve heard others on the forum suggest to clean things up. Should I increase the size of the cable from the battery to the PDC? Can I use both studs (the positive from the battery and the old b+ alternator wire stud that’s now empty after WT mod. 

7 minutes ago, Andyba20 said:

Should I increase the size of the cable from the battery to the PDC?

Shouldn't have to for standard little things like lights and small accessories.  Large accessories like a winch should be wired directly to the battery.

 

9 minutes ago, Andyba20 said:

Can I use both studs (the positive from the battery and the old b+ alternator wire stud that’s now empty after WT mod. 

Yes, you can ONLY if the alternator lead is NOT hook up in the PDC any longer and the W-T ground wire mod was done.

 I agree with all of the above.

 Would like to add that the pitman arm and splined shaft it goes are tapered I believe so the pitman arm should only go on so far and stop.

Thanks guys. So I have auxiliary reverse lights, and I go through relays every 6 months, including “waterproof” relays. The current lights are halogen. If I switch to LED auxiliary lights can I just run them straight off the purple reverse wire (currently triggering the relay)? I’d use an online fuse. 

54 minutes ago, Andyba20 said:

If I switch to LED auxiliary lights can I just run them straight off the purple reverse wire (currently triggering the relay)? I’d use an online fuse. 

 

Probably.  But, you should find out the total wattage and divide that number by 13 volts to get the amperage draw.  I say 13 volts because it will never be higher than that at the bulb.  The LED bulbs may already have the amperage draw written on them.

 

- John 

 

56 minutes ago, Andyba20 said:

So I have auxiliary reverse lights, and I go through relays every 6 months, including “waterproof” relays.

 

I am guessing that there is a problem in that circuit.  Those relays should last just about forever, especially with such a low duty cycle.

 

- John

The left rear of the truck, about a foot behind the taillight, is where the relay hangs. Every time the lights go out, I check and the relay is rusted, I swap in a new one and good again. That whole area seems to get more water and grit from the road than the other side. I have very little to no rust on the truck, but the leaf spring shackle on that same side is rusted bad…the other side is fine. 

If the relay is way back there I have to ask, where is it getting battery power from? Did you run a wire from the battery all the way to the relay?

 I would either swap to the led lights or move the relay to somewhere more shielded from road debris.

 I have an led light strip between the tailgate and rear bumper. I'm sure you've seen the kind I'm talking about. Mine also has white led's that come on with the reverse lights which are also led bulbs. Lights up pretty good behind the truck.

Same set up here the reverse light are also halogen and my relay is tucked back up in the left side taillight high last a bit longer but still gives up fast. I get my power from the 40A +12V out of the 7 pin trailer plug. I've got a pair of halogen aircraft landing lights on the rear axle. You do not want to place big halogens on the the violet lead it will burn the reverse switch and the wiring up being the two bulbs I run at 16.6 Amps for the pair. Now if I swapped for LED floods I could then most likely swap over as long as the new set is low current draw. I would still be careful to swap the stock bulbs to LED as well to open up the amp window a bit more for additional draw. I've also got a switch on my overhead console to force the reverse lights on as well so I have a flood of light during hitch up of trailers. 

 

Edited February 22, 20223 yr by Mopar1973Man

I'm surprised they survive the jarring. Are they mounted to the axel?

1 minute ago, Max Tune said:

I'm surprised they survive the jarring. Are they mounted to the axel?

They have been mounted like that over 350k miles and I only replaced 1 bulb so far in that time. Currently the rely is rotten needs replacement and the last time I put the trans in I didn't hook up my switch again want to change my hook up too.

@Mopar1973Man, can you post how you mounted the lights to the axle? I've been wanting to copy your idea but haven't been able to figure out how you mounted them.

 

Tried to convince my brother to hook his up like yours when he does it, but he's dead set on the hanging below the bumper technique.. 

26 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

@Mopar1973Man, can you post how you mounted the lights to the axle? I've been wanting to copy your idea but haven't been able to figure out how you mounted them.

 

Tried to convince my brother to hook his up like yours when he does it, but he's dead set on the hanging below the bumper technique.. 

 

Articles, articles...

 

Meaning the actual clamp, bracket, etc..

 

You don't mention that in the article. Looks like angle iron off the diff bolts but I'm just guessing..  

Yes. Just simple angle iron. pull a bolt out of the cover slip the angle in and bolt back up. 

20 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

20 hours ago, Andyba20 said:

Should I increase the size of the cable from the battery to the PDC?

Shouldn't have to for standard little things like lights and small accessories.  Large accessories like a winch should be wired directly to the battery

So when using the studs on the PDC for accessory power, is the rule of thumb not to exceed 140 amps (fuse size). If I got a larger fuse could I move my grid heater wires to the PDC stud? I had some 2 gauge welding cable leftover from another cut that I’ve mocked up to replace the old battery to PDC cable. Much larger than the (6 gauge?) that was original. Just used it to save me a trip into town.

3 hours ago, Andyba20 said:

If I got a larger fuse could I move my grid heater wires to the PDC stud?

Pretty sure those have fusible links as the first bit of wire - or my truck has been retrofitted by a PO, who knows.

 

If you really want them in the PDC, I'd put them on the "power in" stud, aka upstream of the fuse. Upgrading to 2 gauge since you already have it seems like a "might as well", but not really needed. The grid heaters aren't on for long unless it's really cold - and really cold temps will help keep the wire cool.

I know I'm a bit late on this, been a busy week. Here are my reverse lights. I have LED bulbs in the stock sockets and the the LED light strip with brake/turn signals and reverse lights. Makes for plenty of light for me at least. First pic is the back of the truck at night in reverse. Second is the light it casts behind it, taken from in the bed.

I wish there was a "shocked" option along with the Like, Confused, Thanks, etc. options!

 I've gotten several compliments on them from guys at work (when I was on nights). One guy even had me order him an led light strip for his truck.