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I believe my fuel return line is leaking.

Posted
  • Staff

 I'm talking about the line on the rear of the cylinder head. I was under there fir something else yesterday and noticed it's wet on the back of the engine and down the bell housing. A small drip was handing on the bottom of the bell housing. It was fuel. Could see the light green color. 

 I took my phone and tried to get a pic behind the head (it's tight back there) and it looks wet. Can't tell if it's just the copper washers leaking or if it's the line itself. So far its a small leak, just a drip. 

 Could this cause a slight hard start issue? I noticed yesterday morning she seemed to start a bit harder than normal. (Temp was low/mid 40's)

 Thinking of just replacing the line, banjo and washers also whatever seals at the "T" as well.

 Any thoughts?

 See pics, best I could do in that small space.

 

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Yes that would cause a hard start. For now I would just try tightening the bolt. 

  • Owner

Time to replace the banjo bolt seals. 14mm wrench if I remember correctly, and the fun is getting back there and changing both seals. It does help to have the valve cover off give a bit more room to work.

  • Author
  • Staff

 I'll keep that in mind. Maybe pull the valve cover and clean it up and paint it? Been wanting to anyway.

 Should I just do the seals or is it common for the line itself to go bad?

  • Owner
2 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

Should I just do the seals or is it common for the line itself to go bad?

 

Typically the sealing washers go bad. I've had to replace a set on mine awhile back. No issues since. Typically the line itself doesn't go bad but the seals on the banjo bolt or the square cut o-rings at the return tee fail. 

  • 2 weeks later...

Did that one. You have to hug the engine with your head resting on the cowl.. Have a photo of me doing that somewhere.. Best to remove the hook point for a hoist as well.

 

edit: found it. Me 5 years ago..

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  • Author
  • Staff

 That looks like fun. @Mopar1973Man said it would help to remove the valve cover also. I'll be doing the seals this coming weekend. Last weekend got jammed up working on everyone else's cars again. Ugh

  • Owner

The ol' Cummins bear hug to change the return line seals. Yes removing the valve cover works just a we bit better being you will have a bit more room to reach down with big paws. Sad to say I've got big hands and some thing just are hell for me to do but I still do them. 

  • Author
  • Staff

 Got the seals replaced today. Have to say it was much easier than I thought it would be. I removed the valve cover (and the one heater hose to allow pulling the valve cover off easier)

 So far no leaks apparent,  I used brake cleaner to spray off the top of the bell housing the best I could. I'll check it again after a few days. 

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.