I pulled all rockers off replacement head for my truck and what I noticed was every rocker had scratch marks in the bottom of each rocker and the rocker shaft, Is this normal? I dont like what I am seeing but there is no slack in them that I can feel, I will mic each one tomorrow. Can anyone give me the wear tolarance for this inspection? I did a search and not getting the right info. There is no sluge in head it looks good as far as that go's. I just cant belive the rockers would all have scratch marks like that. Oh and cylinder one and cylinder three had green dots far something I dont know what, cylinder one with one mark and cylinder three with two dots. Also stock thermostat was still in this 98 modle head, 8/98 was stamped on stat.

sometimes a picture is worth 1000 words. these are not roller rockers, so i would image some wear is going to be evident.

I thought about pics but got wraped up in checking it out. I will take some in the morning. These light green dots got me corn fused, one I cant belive they are still there if from the factory. And what do they mean.

Some of mine had scratches.One i replaced it was nasty.So without seeing them my guess is normal.Just blow out the oil passages.

All oil passages where ok, I am thinking back in the day I had a 428 pontica and I remember scratches didnt hurt the half moon balls they road on so maybe it is normal. I will get some pics in the morning.

you talkin about the 2 lines in the rocker pin? If so that is just there to channel oil.

Nothing to worry about unless it looks like a grinder was after it and by then the vale stem tip would look the same. as far as the dots I think every engine I have ever been inside has paint marks on about everything these days from the factory.

Tell me what you think.Thanks

What do you think? Head has been off four 4 days, I guess thats where the rust came from. Why is there oil and grim in the intake, valvues not seating? I plan on taking it to machine shop and see what they say. I am not sure about the rockers and shaft, the one your looking at is the worst one.Thanks

yeah it probably needs tanked and a goin through. machine shop will fix you up.

This pic bugs me...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1910&d=1287365374

But this is normal here...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1905&d=1287365110

There is somewhere there was moisture getting to those back cylinders... I never seen a head rust up in 4 days...

Time to be magifluxed and see where the crack is at... I bet money around these cylinders...

--- Update to the previous post...

Now that I looked and looked again at your pics... I'm going to say you got a coolant leak in the manifold area (crack) that is feeding the coolant to the 3 cylinders causing the rust. But I'm going to also say you got a crack somewhere in the head that is feeding compression to the return fuel rail...

I really do think you getting close to a end on this adventure...

hows the cylinders look

All I need is the head, this is the replacement head for my truck. Mine is still running for now. The eng. I got this head from was a 53 block that had burned up the auto tranny. I really dont like the grim in the head.

All I need is the head, this is the replacement head for my truck. Mine is still running for now. The eng. I got this head from was a 53 block that had burned up the auto tranny. I really dont like the grim in the head.

oh i thought this was the head off your motor. No tellin whether or not this head is junk or not, yours might not have anything wrong with it either or it might.

The grime in the intake area is typical of a exhaust brake. As for rust that still bugs me... I'd have it looked at before you use it...

Yea I dont like the looks either, going to machine shop tomorrow.

hope you got a good deal on it

Just my luck 9 cracked valve seats. Found another head thru the machine shop 1000

Just my luck 9 cracked valve seats. Found another head thru the machine shop 1000

jesus. 9?? i am lost here, why don't you just remove your engine's cylinder head and have it checked? Why did you buy that head when it looked the way it did with all that oil in the intake and rust on it? You appear to be willing to spend money on guessing hoping that it will fix your problem, but you can't spend 2 or 300 bucks on the compression test equipment? I have the guages and all the crap to do a comp test and leak down test with if you are that pressed for cash i would be glad to loan it out, but by the time you pay for shipping to you and back to me you could buy your own!!!! :spend::spend::spend:

jesus. 9?? i am lost here, why don't you just remove your engine's cylinder head and have it checked? Why did you buy that head when it looked the way it did with all that oil in the intake and rust on it? You appear to be willing to spend money on guessing hoping that it will fix your problem, but you can't spend 2 or 300 bucks on the compression test equipment? I have the guages and all the crap to do a comp test and leak down test with if you are that pressed for cash i would be glad to loan it out, but by the time you pay for shipping to you and back to me you could buy your own!!!! :spend::spend::spend:

Your right But when you run a welding buss. and the economy is the way it is and you had to sell your other truck to keep employee in a job, the only truck running is what keeps you going you tend to shoot the dice, maybe lady luck will shine this time. I never saw head, so I didnt know.

You do know that valve seats are replaceable..........Why buy another head, just rebuild the one you already have, you could go through a dozen used heads before finding one with no issues.