On my 99 3500, I have a smog check due. I have a Smarty which I just put back to the stock mode. How long or how many mile are required before the history is removed. Is there a way I can check it before I take it to get it smoged? I have a normal reader and the Smarty. Thanks

40 warm up cycles. So you have to start with a cold engine and warm up fully for 40 cycles without tripping the code again. Much easier to clear the codes and drive the truck to check for new codes and verify it is still clear.

Interesting read, scroll way down for vehicle anomalies.  Looks like dodge had a lot of unsupported OBDII responses.  If it's  a federal emissions over 8500 GVW it pretty much gets a pass on emissions monitors  readiness.

https://www.bar.ca.gov/industry/obd-test-reference

@LD-Ordie  I have a Smarty and I also return to stock settings every two years for the Smog check. Once the Smarty is hooked up I always clear the "over boost" code because the Smarty fuels passed the 20 psi limit of Factory programing. I also return to "stock tire size" because I'm rolling on 37" tires.

 

I don't have any other codes and once you return to Stock Factory spec's your Smarty leaves no foot print of being involved with programing. That feature was specifically engineered by Marco in Italy over 20 years ago.  It works flawlessly and I have never experienced an error in 20 plus years.

 

NOW...as for you stacking an Edge product with the Smarty, I do not know why you would do such a thing, are you also removing the Edge device and allowing the Smarty to clear what ever mess that leaves behind?

 

If so, do you see a clean report from your Smarty once you clear everything? The Smarty will clear codes completely but, if you have an error and a code returns after clearing it with your Smarty...you have homework to do.

 

I'm not scolding you but, stacking programmers is so hayseed lame. Get a Quadzilla and do to it right, you won't regret that. (I love spending other peoples money)

 

If you do not have any errors, your Smarty will clear standing codes and you can roll into your Smog inspection station with NO fear.

 

Respectfully,

W-T

@W-Tis right about the Smarty not leaving a "foot print".  I just got back from talking to Scotty, the owner of North  County  Smog and Repair in San Marcos, CA, about the Smarty.  He said set stock setting, remove the Smarty, and drive 50+ miles and you'll be good.  He also said that he's smoged a few trucks that have not been brought back to stock.  They failed and had to go to the state referee 

One of the few reasons I love the Quadzilla. I know that a member here Me78569 was able to pass smog with the Smarty at 50% power levels.

 I'm lucky enough to live in a state that does not yet smog test. 

34 minutes ago, Doubletrouble said:

 I'm lucky enough to live in a state that does not yet smog test. 

 

Some areas of Idaho have smog checks yet but I'm in a county that doesn't have emissions testing as of yet. As for the Quadzilla I've made my fuel table to mimic stock fuel levels from launching up to about 5 PSI then the full fuel is felt from the injectors. Then, above 15 PSI the full CANBus and the wiretap can be felt level selectable. I've got that good I can write a tune to mimic stock fuel even with +150HP injectors installed and would most likely pass the emissions test if needed. 

 

Again, I Iook at it differently I can reduce my fuel consumption and then allowing for better MPGs and since I'm not burning much fuel I'm not polluting or wasting fuel.

 I have to ask, how do they do a smog test? At idle? Maybe like a dyno pull? I've never seen one done.

Below is paraphrased from the official CA smog check handbook.  Inspections vary from state to state.

 

 Open the hood and do a visual Inspection.  To pass inspection, the required emission control system(s) must be complete and installed in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer’s original California or Federal certified configuration, or, when applicable, in accordance with a CARB aftermarket configuration. If any required emission control systems are found to be tampered or defective, the vehicle shall fail the inspection. 

 

Inspect crankcase emission controls: 

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) – Gasoline/Diesel, Crankcase Depression Regulator (CDR) – Diesel, Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) – Diesel, Any other crankcase control system 

 

Inspect exhaust gas after-treatment system: 

Catalytic Converter(s) – Gasoline/Diesel, Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC or OC) – Diesel, NOx Adsorber – Diesel  Periodic Trap Oxidizer (PTOX) – Diesel, Diesel Particulate Filter(s) (DPF) – Diesel, Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) – Diesel, Any other exhaust gas after-treatment system.

 

Visible Smoke Test:

• Idle Test - Observe the tailpipe exhaust plume of the vehicle for 10 seconds. • Crankcase Test - Observe the engine crankcase for 10 seconds. • BAR Snap Test - Quickly push-and-release the accelerator pedal from idle position to between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM, then immediately allow the engine to return to idle. • Enter the test result into the EIS or OIS. • Document any failure on the Vehicle Inspection Report, and the customer’s invoice

 

Malfunction Indicator Light (OBD I and OBD II:

To check MIL function, the inspector shall turn the ignition to the “key on engine off” (KOEO) position, observe the MIL operation and then start the engine “key on engine running” (KOER). The MIL should illuminate in the KOEO position and extinguish when the engine is started and in the KOER position. A brief period of illumination during start up is normal. Always follow the EIS or OIS prompts to enter test results. Pass/Fail Criteria: • A “Pass” entry indicates that the MIL properly operates, and service or repairs are not needed. • A “Fail” entry indicates that the MIL does not illuminate at all in the KOEO position, or the MIL illuminates continuously or flashes with the engine running during the functional test of the MIL. 

 

OBD II Functional Test:

Follow the EIS or OIS test prompts to connect the EIS or OIS test lead to the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC). 

Pass/Fail Criteria: The EIS or OIS may include an assessment of the OBD II system’s ability to communicate, the readiness of system monitors, diagnostic trouble codes, vehicle identification, existence of system modifications and the MIL command status.

 

 

Thanks to all that responded to my question! So I'm going to check and make sure all the codes are clear and drive the 50 miles or so. I bought the Edge some 20 years ago as it was legal to ship to California, I was new to the Cummins world, the blog I was following at the time had good reviews and is Carb legal , so can remain during the test. The Quadzilla is not. I was able to get a friend to buy a Smarty for me from out of state for $500. I didn't see the need to spend the extra $300 for the Quadrille at the time. I run the Smarty without adding any timing .  It seems to do what I need, but like anything performance related, I always find something better after I have spent the $$$. Not sure I'm ready to spend another $800. right now.....

4 minutes ago, LD-Ordie said:

So I'm going to check and make sure all the codes are clear and drive the 50 miles or so.

When checking for codes be sure the readiness monitors are set and in the "green".  Your code reader will indicate if they are set.  Monitors not set will be an automatic failure.   I've found that it takes 3 drive cycles of 25 miles each, to reset them after clearing codes or reconnecting my batteries.   

32 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

When checking for codes be sure the readiness monitors are set and in the "green".  Your code reader will indicate if they are set.  Monitors not set will be an automatic failure.   I've found that it takes 3 drive cycles of 25 miles each, to reset them after clearing codes or reconnecting my batteries.   

That's great advice, I appreciate you taking the time to share!!

2 hours ago, LD-Ordie said:

I run the Smarty without adding any timing .  It seems to do what I need, but like anything performance related, I always find something better after I have spent the $$$. Not sure I'm ready to spend another $800. right now..

Actually I run the Quadzilla reverse I run timing with cut fuel better for MPGs. Running 24 to 25 degrees at 2k RPM but my low boost pulls the fuel down hence running timing but cut fuel to 60%. I've already hit 28.2 MPG breaking my old high mark from Edge Comp.

42 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Actually I run the Quadzilla reverse I run timing with cut fuel better for MPGs. Running 24 to 25 degrees at 2k RPM but my low boost pulls the fuel down hence running timing but cut fuel to 60%. I've already hit 28.2 MPG breaking my old high mark from Edge Comp.

Can I assume you're running your Quadzilla in the custom tune mode? Is this something a non advance tuner could figure out? So in level 4 without timing on my Smarty, edge in the middle position , I'm getting 19 mpg with the cruise set at 65.  Which truck are you getting 28 mpg?

My 2002 (Beast). I can cross the entire state of Washington just a 1/4 tank. I'm running 150 HP injectors on a stock HX35W turbo with a 5 speed. 

 

I've been build custom tunes for last 8 years. Something Smarty or Edge can't do.

 

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRwpTsgc/

 

I just had to smog my truck last month, lady ran a mirror under the truck but never popped the hood.  Just stabbed the OBD2 port and the sensor in the stack.  I put the quadzilla on level 0 and passed with a .02, max allowable being .40.  Having the Quad does make smog checks easy as I did run the smarty/Edge combo for a little while and would always change the smarty tune and unplug the Edge.  The Quad has also made tuning my compounds easier, getting closer to 18mpg now.