So 17k on a reman long block, initial 1000 miles were broke in with synthetic oil (against manufacture requirements) as soon as I learned I flushed and refilled with DINO oil. That being said, I'm now at 17k and loosing about a quart every 200 miles. I REALLY believe it is my turbo (original to the truck, currently 451k miles. Not blowing smoke but the tailpipe is sooty... no oil "leaks" under the truck.

If the turbo was leaking oil, how would it be indicated?

at $600 to get a reman from Thoroughbred Diesel and I just better replacing the turbo than paying a shop $300 just to find the oil leak?

Is there a better/cheaper place to get a reman turbo?

WHAT is the possibility that 1000 miles on synthetic could have caused issues with the OIL ring on any or all of the pistons during break in?

Thanks guys.

I don't think the synthetic oil hurt anything. I take it as a precaution, you have checked for oil in the coolant? Any remote possibility is the crank case vent tube but you should readily see an oily mess on the underside. Have you checked for blowby?

Unless you can find a visible oil leak on the outside of the engine somewhere, Loosing that much oil is likely a possibility it's the turbo. Have you removed the downpipe from the hot side for a look. The other possibility is rings but you would be seeing noticable blue smoke.

No I haven't broken the turbo loose... if I'm going to that level I'm going to just replace it... no oily mess, no visible leak. No "obvious" smoke... Would it smoke if it was leaking out the exhaust side of the turbo? I mean I'm down to two possibilities... oil rings gummed up or turbo leaking on the exhaust side... unless I get other possibilities from the group...

1 hour ago, Tim Waldo said:

That being said, I'm now at 17k and loosing about a quart every 200 miles. I REALLY believe it is my turbo (original to the truck, currently 451k miles. Not blowing smoke but the tailpipe is sooty... no oil "leaks" under the truck.

If the turbo was leaking oil, how would it be indicated?

Observing soot at the end of the tailpipe is normal for this era of truck, especially if you have larger than stock injectors.

Disconnect the compressor discharge plumbing from the turbo and inspect for an oily mess. Then, disconnect the exhaust band on the exhaust side and inspect for the same.

1 hour ago, Tim Waldo said:

WHAT is the possibility that 1000 miles on synthetic could have caused issues with the OIL ring on any or all of the pistons during break in?

It is possible. The hone pattern intentionally put into the cylinder walls is used as a mild abrasive to condition the outer wear surface of the piston rings for the first 1,000 miles or so of driving. During this period of time, the best mating of the rings to the cylinder wall will occur, resulting in the least oil consumption and least engine blow-by.

Using a slippery synthetic oil during break-in reduces the effectiveness of the abrasive characteristics of honing the cylinder walls - it will have a more likely effect of polishing the piston rings and the cylinder walls, resulting in more oil consumption and more engine blow-by.

Try performing the oil cap rattle test for the poor man's method of checking engine blow-by.

• John

Edited July 14Jul 14 by Tractorman

none...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PHtop7t4BVnAiWD57

Valve guides and valve seals can leak oil some but typical not much because normal both exhaust and intake are under pressure. Like Beast long run downhill like my last trip to Heaven's Gate then I see the blue oil smoke as I throttle up from the bottom of the grade. Typically that how valve guides oil leak is seen. No blow by issues but leak oil past at zero pressure moments like running downhills.

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Valve guides and valve seals can leak oil some but typical not much because normal both exhaust and intake are under pressure. Like Beast long run downhill like my last trip to Heaven's Gate then I see the blue oil smoke as I throttle up from the bottom of the grade. Typically that how valve guides oil leak is seen. No blow by issues but leak oil past at zero pressure moments like running downhills.

but a quart every 200 miles??

I'm pretty much betting on the turbo... guess I'll break it apart this weekend and see if I have residue on the exhaust side.

Basically the only places I can see oil loss happening.

• Valve guides/valve seals.

• Piston rings/piston clearance issues.

• Turbo shaft seals/bearings.

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Basically the only places I can see oil loss happening.

• Valve guides/valve seals.

• Piston rings/piston clearance issues.

• Turbo shaft seals/bearings.

and the only place that makes sense on a newly reman long block is the Turbo Shaft seals... that and I mean it JUST started drinking oil in the last 700 miles and I'm 17k on the reman engine. Turbo has 450k miles on original. Reman Turbo ordered, sadly won't be here till Monday so NEXT weekend before I can do anything.

You could have rebuilt that turbo for cheap.

Diesel Auto Power

Holset Genuine Rebuild Kit for HX35 and HX40 - 3575169

Check out the deal on Holset Genuine Rebuild Kit for HX35 and HX40 - 3575169 at Diesel Auto Power

Edited July 17Jul 17 by Mopar1973Man

I may do that with the old one.... just afraid to do it when I "need" the truck up and running.

so... no oil going to the intercooler or any oil on the air feed from the filter, 2 bottom nuts missing on mount to exhaust manifold (pretty sure they didn't put them on).

It doesn't look like there is any oil in the turbo section. You might pull the turbo off quickly. Now, inspect the ports on the turbo mount for oil in the manifold runners. If you can plug the oil supply temporarily, you could start the engine and check to see if any oil or smoke comes from the manifold. Optimal would be to pull the manifold off and look into each port for oil residue. You could use a bit of cardboard to hold in front of the ports and check for oil splatter out of each port. Don't rev the engine!

Oh yeah, grab a die and chase those studs, and then buy a few stainless steel nuts, at least they will not rust, and make sure to anti-seize those good!

Edited Sunday at 10:18 PM5 days by Mopar1973Man

is there a possibility the oil is going straight out the exhaust side of the turbo? I mean my main concern was that my oil loss was FROM the turbo(and could get worse)... otherwise my turbo is TIGHT...and I see no reason to replace it. I'm waiting on the new turbo to arrive (today) and will break the rest exhaust side down on Saturday to see if there is oil there. What size should the nuts be? If it is burning oil it would make me sad but that isn't my concern, DFC Diesel has already stated they will cover under warranty if that is the case.

SO I just received the "reman" turbo... the geometry is all wrong... it came from A Premiere. I know you can adjust angles a bit... but literally the drain is on the "top" and the oil feed is on the "bottom" not sure you can turn them 180 degrees.

Turbo check

Try pulling and pushing the shaft like an old-school headlight switch. Any movement is an instant fail! It's possible for oil to be leaking because the shaft is moving.

Then, if you can move the compressor wheel like a joystick, and the wheel should never touch the housing, this is a fail also.

2 minutes ago, Tim Waldo said:

SO I just received the "reman" turbo... the geometry is all wrong... it came from A Premiere. I know you can adjust angles a bit... but literally the drain is on the "top" and the oil feed is on the "bottom" not sure you can turn them 180 degrees.

Turbine housing can be clocked by the four bolts and loosened, removed, and clocked correctly for your application. Then the compressor might have a large snap ring; you can release the compressor housing and clock accordingly.

no movement in either direction on the currently installed turbo... I mean for 450k miles it is TIGHT!!!! but I also don't do stupid stuff like over boosting.. I'll take the "new" turbo out and see if my brain is just playing with my emotions.

Ok... got the back of the turbo apart finally.... sooty but dry..I was REALLY hoping for wet... Is it possible that the oil is vaporizing due to the heat? SO do I replace it with the cheap chinese A-Preimere turbo($250) I have sitting here or do I send it back and later get a Rotomaster Reman ($550 w exchange) Here is a photo of the inside of the turbo.

That turbo looks fine.

I would pull the manifold off and check the exhaust ports for oil.

14 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

That turbo looks fine.

I would pull the manifold off and check the exhaust ports for oil.

do you mean pull the turbo and look at the exhaust manifold ports... or do you mean pull the exhaust manifold and look at each cylinders exhaust port? and if I do that do I need to replace the metal gaskets? I actually have new gaskets for exhaust manifold to turbo.

Some how you need to see the valve stems to see if oil is weeping past the valve seals.

350k on Beast

If valve guides are bad the valves will rock and eat the seals off the valve. This will allow oil in during idling and low boost conditions.