Jump to content

Injector Install

Posted

Hey guys - replaced my injectors 1x with ISX holding my hand :) (where's the "flower" icon :lmao2:) anyway Thinking of getting rid of my RV275's and going to +75 => +100HP ...... together with hx35/hx40 hybrid. That with my methanol/water kit should bring right at 275->425 HP which is as far I as think I should go without new headstuds/bigger turbo. So thinking a couple things. (1) What you think between full injector replacement or just nozzles ?? (2) Think of these http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/cpp-injectors.html + 100HP and http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/35-fslash-40%20turbo%20budget.htm or something else in some price point ? I haven';t seen anything and guys reckon they are on par with DDP. (3) ok main part/reason of this thread. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injectors/injectors.htm Step 10 of INSTALL. When retorqing the fuel line - what tool do you use as you can't use a normal socket etc due to the line ??? I think ISX and I just guestimated this part ......is there something that can be made or bought to go with the torque wrench ?? (4) ON torque wrenches was going to get these. One for inch pounds and one for ft pounds. The foot pound one acts as a calibrator also. Seem ok ?? INCHPOUNDS http://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Industrial-Tools-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000H43VU0/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1290725074&sr=1-14 FOOTPOUNDS http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-940759-Powerbuilt-Digital-Adaptor/dp/B0031QPJZG/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1290725074&sr=1-11 THANKS :thumbup2:

  • Replies 45
  • Views 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Featured Replies

  • Author

ha ! :thumbup2:Yeah - I really started out just wanting lower EGTs ....... and thought methanol seemed like a good bang for buck. Then thought would like some extra power when I put my foot down . - not often - but fun when you do. So with that came the +75's ........... and a HX35 to come to help handle that extra fuel.Will see what happens - I figured worst case I can remove most of this stuff and go back to stock injectors and no MWI ..... and not be out too much $$ since I am getting on sale / second hand. :) You gonna meet me for a drink sometime your stuck near TEMPE AZ cat ??? :tongue:

The last couple times I have done just this as the suggested torque was not enough to keep em from leaking on my 02.:thumbup2:

Yeah I just tighten them until they feel tight. Sometimes one or two will need a little more, but usually I get it the first time. I've never used a crowfoot to tighten them, just a 19 mm wrench.:thumbup2: As far as temps go, I don't really have a problem with my pump untapped. I could see if you were towing a lot they would probably warm up pretty good so more air is certainly needed. I'm going to be tapping my pump after Dec. 14th so I'll keep everyone updated on how warm it gets then!:thumbup2: If you need any help or pictures on installing the injectors, just let me know. I've got a full write up on CF and can post up some pictures on here if need be.:thumbup2:
https://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2499&page=1首 I used to install the vp44 about once a week at a shop i worked at in 2004. I always used a 3/4 snap on angle wrench and a 19 mm stubby. but what was really nice when u needed a good bite was this window socket from matco tools.....back then it was 45$....now its 55$...but a good tool to have....check it out:thumbup2: part#mst9910
  • Owner

https://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2499&page=1首 I used to install the vp44 about once a week at a shop i worked at in 2004. I always used a 3/4 snap on angle wrench and a 19 mm stubby. but what was really nice when u needed a good bite was this window socket from matco tools.....back then it was 45$....now its 55$...but a good tool to have....check it out:thumbup2: part#mst9910

Now that I've seen that I could make my own for less...
  • Author

\window socket from matco tools.....back then it was 45$....now its 55$...but a good tool to have....check it out:thumbup2: part#mst9910

looks awesome apart from that $55 price tag. Oh well ...... bought some $7 crows feet :) thanks tho !:thumbup2:

yeah....well didnt have time to make one then...needed it for the job and the tool truck was right there.I had thought of it before though....this thing has a pretty thick wall...not sure if the home made version would flex too muchits not really needed for the lines at the head....but down at the pump is nice

  • Author

Funny I got the pump end totally figured out with standard open end wrench... Its the head connection I complain about... 5 and 6 are the bad ones...

damn #6:banghead:

damn #6:banghead:

I didn't have any problem watching you do it so I don't know why your complaining.. :lmao2:

I can get on 5 and 6 no prob with an open end angle wrench.....its a 3/4 snap on.....someone told me it has a different angle then a craftsman....not sure if thats true though

  • Author

I didn't have any problem watching you do it so I don't know why your complaining.. :lmao2:

Haha - me - complain ??? :moon:

--- Update to the previous post...

alright...what size injectors did you get fro jaime???he has some sweet deals going on them

Yeah I sold my RV275's and chaned into some +75's.

Think that will be a good balance with water cooling and HX35. (Just gotta find one now).

You getting some ?

Now that I've seen that I could make my own for less...

I bet you could modify a cheap deep well socket in a few minutes and have something very close.

Funny I got the pump end totally figured out with standard open end wrench... Its the head connection I complain about... 5 and 6 are the bad ones...

Other than just being hard to reach, they aren't too bad. On number 6 I just use my shorty wrench. It's the front ones that are a little bit of a pain b/c my Tunnel Ram makes for a little less room to turn the wrench. Just takes a little longer and you have to flip the wrench on every turn!!:ahhh:

Funny I got the pump end totally figured out with standard open end wrench... Its the head connection I complain about... 5 and 6 are the bad ones...

Michael..the last time i had my lines off i removed the lifting eye from the back of the head.....Man..did that make it ever easier to get on #5 fuel lines Richie:thumbup2:
  • Owner

Michael..the last time i had my lines off i removed the lifting eye from the back of the head.....Man..did that make it ever easier to get on #5 fuel lines

Richie:thumbup2:

Mine got to come out because the lift ring has my crankcase vent zip tied to it... :lmao2:

As for 5 and 6 still kind of hard because of the simple fact my wrench length is what is getting me I can turn maybe 15* and then flip the wrench 180* and turn again the flip again... Now if I went out and got a set of stubby wrenches... (Pretty! :stuned:)

Posted Image

Now you'd be able to get back under the cowling and really turn lines... :thumbup2:

  • Author

ok - got the new ones in late last night - took much longer than without ISX here - ha !! Plus I forgot to torque down 1,2,4 on reinstall and then I was like - wtf - with the leaky fuel. Looks dry now.So a couple questions1) How would you know about fuel leak inside - would simply removing valve cover and starting be enough ?? Would it sound really heavy 'miss' ? 2) Ever heard of removing injectors without removing the lines. I heard of one go going straight in via the valve colver - with just loosened lines. Guessing he had enough flex to pull the crossover tubes 1/4" or so to get out and get in the injectors - that would save o much time if you could :)3) What do you use for torquing and removing the VP44 connections. I had a hell of a time with the 2 middle bolts as they are so close to the other 2 injectors. Ended up using a crowsfoot but not much better - this was way worse than #6 for me :)

ok - got the new ones in late last night - took much longer than without ISX here - ha !! Plus I forgot to torque down 1,2,4 on reinstall and then I was like - wtf - with the leaky fuel. Looks dry now.

So a couple questions

1) How would you know about fuel leak inside - would simply removing valve cover and starting be enough ?? Would it sound really heavy 'miss' ? If it leaked it would probably not fire the injector and miss, otherwise you wouldn't know if the leak wasn't big enough, other than looking in there somehow.

2) Ever heard of removing injectors without removing the lines. I heard of one go going straight in via the valve colver - with just loosened lines. Guessing he had enough flex to pull the crossover tubes 1/4" or so to get out and get in the injectors - that would save o much time if you could :)

Sounds plausible enough.

3) What do you use for torquing and removing the VP44 connections. I had a hell of a time with the 2 middle bolts as they are so close to the other 2 injectors. Ended up using a crowsfoot but not much better - this was way worse than #6 for me :)

Are you talking about the injector line nuts on the back of the VP44? We put the back 3 lines on and tightened them all up, then we put the other 3 lines on.. Did you put all 6 on at once?

There's my stab at it.
  • Author

YeahFunny enough the only real issues I had was with the VP44 end.The sets of 3 lines 1,2,4 and 3,5,6The middle bolt is hard to get to as its blocked off by other two on each side - so I found it real hard to get anything on it to tighten/loosten. I was using a stubby wrench - but still not enough clearance - must be a better way ???

Yeah Funny enough the only real issues I had was with the VP44 end. The sets of 3 lines 1,2,4 and 3,5,6 The middle bolt is hard to get to as its blocked off by other two on each side - so I found it real hard to get anything on it to tighten/loosten. I was using a stubby wrench - but still not enough clearance - must be a better way ???

Use a less stubby wrench.. Or you could put a gearwrench on the nut before you put the line on and tighten it up, then just leave the wrench hanging on the line for next time :lmao:
Go to topic listing