OK Guy's.."The moment you've all been waiting for" Here is a complete start to finish Details on Converting Standard 2-headlight system to a Sport Quad headlight sys. i did a few months ago

Let me tell you it was a P.I.T.A...i had nothing to go on as none of the threads i found on any of the forums involved building your own from scratch "w/Heavy Duty Stuff" ..most of the write ups were people who had bought a pre-wired harness..like the ones for example suvlights.com or others..all reported problems either "fog lights staying on..lights would not turn off, lights would not come on or lights were dim on bright, etc...  So not finding any information in relation to a possiable wiring diagram i purchased a "pre-made harness w/relays from LMC..What a piece of shi$$..i mean lets totally forget that it did not work,{ lights went out or "almost out on Dimm}...this was chineese junk a frigg'n fire hazzard. .cheap light gauge wire i could bite into. connectors that "pulled out after unplugged a time or two..and last but not least.."NO SOLDERED CONNECTIONS, ALL CRIMPED AND "NO HEAT SHRINK.

 

   See none of these aftermarket harness's will work on these Trucks neither the Chinese "JUNK" nor the other decent harness's...."WHY"   you ask...  ..Because no one { that i was able to find } has been able or have taken the time to "Crack This system" and build a precise fit "PLUG AND PLAY" HARNESS ".  The 2nd GEN Dodges have a ODD wiring system, I Call it {f^{_{or lack of a better term}}} Ground Switching System because thats what it does. It switches the ground Neg-  instead of the POS+.. The original wiring has a hot wire to Headlight plug that HOT 24/7..all the time.

 

    SO..after tryin to get around it..I started designing & building my own system. and with much help from..MICHAEL "MOPAR MAN" i eventually completed my own system.."NOW..Im passing this information on to you guys because the lights on these trucks "SUCK"..and this is an Awesome improvment that....well ..you will have to see for your self.....AND......I DONT WANT NO ONE TO GO THRU WHAT I WENT THRU BUILDING MINE ..L.M.A.O.
 

 ***note***  I soldered all my connections & used heat shrink tubing to make a moisture free system. I also harnessed all the wires in split wire loom conduit 

 

 

thanks Michael    


Check out link below:
Slideshow
http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Dodge%20Sport%20Quad%20Headlight%20Conversion/?albumview=slideshow

Pictures
http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Dodge%20Sport%20Quad%20Headlight%20Conversion/


 Below is the Parts list complete with part numbers & prices. except for the fuse holders, I got most all parts from 

 you can find these parts at most auto or electronic's stores and they don't have to be these brands either but i suggest using quality relays w/holders to make replacement easy. 

 

   

 

COMPLETE PARTS LIST for HD HEADLIGHT HARNESS (sport HL)

***note***  This Parts list is for reference only.. Vendor, Manufacture & Brands are open to your preference 

 

 

   2-male headlight connector (same as bulb)............................................#CP9004CM..............7.49ea.

 

   2- Ceramic female 9004 Connectors                                                       #CP9007CFC.............7.49ea

 

   2-Ceramic female 9007 Connectors.......................................................#CP9004CFC.............7.49ea

.

   4-HELLA SPST Relays, 40A, Dual 87 outs, .............................................#HL87483...............8.00ea. 

 

   **Option**   4-SPST HELLA Relays, 40AMP, Dual 87 outs, with Diode.............................#HL87753..........13.00ea.   NO LONGER AVAILABLE    

   **Option**   4-SPST HELLA Relays, 30AMP, Dual 87 outs, with Diode..............................#HL87453..........8.00ea.     Available @ ralleylights.com

 

****** Note******* It is not mandatory to use the ones with diodes or resistors, it just helps insure safety for stereo sys, CB & The entire electronic system from EF Feedback.. You could use 30amp relays as you are using separate low and high beam circuits.

                In the beginning i was originally trying to use only 2 Relays, 1 on each side. I found out later this to be "IMPOSSIBLE" . YOU MUST HAVE 4-RELAYS..  You can use ones with single 87 out and wire together,, the Dual 87 out just makes a nice clean wiring system and i hat cobbled up wiring

 

 

 

   4-Relay Holders, complete with terminals....................................................#HL87123.................3.77ea.

​I Strongly recommend using Holders, it will make changing a relay out as easy as changing a fuse if you should ever have to

 

  I got the fuse holders from Advance Auto....."Bussmann Inline, 12ga. wires............#BP/HUU...................5.49ea.

 

  

   

        I got the Dodge OEM Sport Headlight assembly's @ http://www.factorymopar.com they are a Dodge dealer with online OEM parts. there prices are way below local Dealership.

                             Sport Headlight Assembly's  :

                             price=  233.64.. left side

                                         225.38 ..right side

 

 There are Cheeper Options for the The Sport Headlights but be forewarned of the cheap knockoffs and there problems like "leaking", , not very good fitment or alignment, ,poor quality Adjusters that make adjustment difficult or impossible>>>

"This is important cause you will have to dial these in and insure the Beam is to the left on LOW BEAM Driver side as to keep from blinding oncoming Cars.    "The OEM Lights are pretty close out of the box "..  

    A salvage yard would probably be a good source if you could find any thats not damaged.

 

   

                                      

 

 

 

**UPDATE PLEASE READ **

   I have had several Guys PM me asking why is it that there HB indicator light stays burning even on LB...most of the time this issue is caused by wires being in wrong location on one of the Headlight plugs .  A weak GROUND circuit will also cause this,   You have to have a solid -GND circuit to the Headlight connectors. I used the spare Side post Terminal's on my OPTMA RED TOP BATTERIES POS+ & GND - post.  BUT: There is a Post on front inner fender just below the Battery, there is a Solid 8# wire that runs from there that goes to Neg- post  battery terminal on battery so this is as good as going straight to Neg without having a bunch of wires hanging off of your Battery causing mores battery issues in the future.. But first be sure it is solid and clean,, if not solid and free from corrosion then replace it.

 

The other cause would be that you have a wire in the wrong place on the back of one or more H L connectors or in the conversion plug itself.

Dodge sport Quad headlight conversion.doc

Dodge Sport Quad Headlight Conversion- Relays.doc

Edited July 14, 20159 yr by rburks

Just got me a set of Sports... YAY!!! One question here... why is there a need to have 4 relay's.?.?. "A 100 watt bulb draws about 100w/12v=8.5ish amps." right.?.?. and my "stock" bulbs are not 100 watts each sooooo... is it just good over kill to do a relay per light... voltage drop... etc.?.?. Ralleylights.com doesn't show the diode relay anymore... they have a standard "kit" http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=3945 that is a non diode relay... is the diode really that important.?.?. Thanks guys

The diode-optioned relay is to protect EMF back-feed, but should not be an issue, unless you hook jumper cables up backwards. At that point, however, you'll have more to deal with than relays.

..

Will making this harness run the lows and highs at the same time if not does anybody know how to make them both on at the same time?

No, you will need to get a Bright Box for that.

What's a bright box?

Whoops, spelled it wrong. http://www.truckcustomizers.com/products/brite-box-chevy-ford-dodge-toyota-trucks.html On another note, I still don't have the harness so I never use the high beams. I have maybe 10 minutes total burn time on them and my driver side has burned out. Last time I was showing someone how they worked, like spot lights, there was a black spot in the driver side that couldn't be seen from outside but I could see it from the driver seat. I was driving last night and messing with them and the black spot would fill in with light after a few seconds of darkness. I did it a few times and then it blew. These are the high beam bulbs that Daniel Stern recommends for our trucks on his site. Guess it really doesn't matter but I would think a bulb should last longer than 15 minutes.

Whoops, spelled it wrong. http://www.truckcustomizers.com/products/brite-box-chevy-ford-dodge-toyota-trucks.html On another note, I still don't have the harness so I never use the high beams. I have maybe 10 minutes total burn time on them and my driver side has burned out. Last time I was showing someone how they worked, like spot lights, there was a black spot in the driver side that couldn't be seen from outside but I could see it from the driver seat. I was driving last night and messing with them and the black spot would fill in with light after a few seconds of darkness. I did it a few times and then it blew. These are the high beam bulbs that Daniel Stern recommends for our trucks on his site. Guess it really doesn't matter but I would think a bulb should last longer than 15 minutes.

On the website it only has options for trucks without the sport package and if you do this swap it swaps it to sport right? Sorry if I'm getting it wrong just want to make sure!

Yes, it's for non sport trucks going to sport lights.

I am trying to do this conversion myself also, is it possible to use a relay without a diode and add a diode later ? Looks pretty easy. If so what 2 posts would it go between ?

This could make the relays under $10 apiece

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Relay-5ZMU4 With

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268&CA_6C15C=107608655&utm_source=BZ&utm_campaign=product&utm_medium=CSE

Thanks Rick

man that is great work and im sure tough at times. thank you very much. but now i must ask a dumb question what is the difference in sport headlights from i guess the norm headlights?

The Britebox kit from Geno's Garage is what I put on my '01 2500 CTD. Nothing easier, works great, PLENTY of light now.

Guys,  I have updated thIs Write up with some Part numbers  that have changed or been replaced, as well as "ADDED" information to answer a lot of your alls questions regarding this MOD.

  Most important = The relays w/diode are no longer available at least from My knowledge bur they are in 30Amp version which will be fine as it is still way over need amperage needed. The diode "IS NOT REQUIRED" But is a safety to keep EF back thru system.

YOU CAN USE STANDARD SPST RELAYS. I PREFER DUAL 87 OUTPUTS BUT YOU CAN USE SINGLE 87 OUTS YOU WILL JUST HAVE TO SPICE THEM TOGETHER

  A SPDT RELAY W/87# &87A OUTS WILL NOT WORK ON THIS HARNESS

 

New part numbers are listed in edited original write up 

Edited July 10, 20159 yr by rburks

Because attachments are screwed up here's the pictures again. This really needs to get fixed site-wide :-/

Dodge Ram Sport Headlight Conversion.pdf

I'm trying to do it with 2 relays and 1 fuse.

Shouldn't be too hard, just a little more wire. That's what I'm planning on doing for my HID retrofit. You can also put a diode between the 2 relays so that the high beams will also power on the low beams for quad bulb high beams. One consideration with a single fuse is all lights will be tied to a fuse. I'm going to run a fuse for each relay so that only one set of lights will be out if a fuse blows. Any rectifier diode will work, like a 3A from radio shack. If it's reversed it'll light the highs with the low, instead of the lows with the high ;-)

 

Also, if anyone is interested in doing a HID retro on the cheap, I can help. I think I have spent a total of $85 and am about to put it together. The best cheap chinese components I could find.

Edited March 25, 20178 yr by beren

I converted my headlight system to the sport package system last July.  I chose to use two fuses and four relays for the following reasons:

 

*  one fuse and two relays per side for safety

*  one fuse and two relays per side for lower amp draw (10 amp per side with four high beam bulbs activated)

*  two relays per side using both 87 an 87a terminals on both relays so low and high beams are not mixed when switching from      low to high or vice versa.

 

I wired my headlights per OEM specs and Daniel Stearns recommendation.  Even though I purchased my Sport Package headlights at HeadLights Depot.com, the greatly improved lighting is very good on low beam and excellent on high beam.  I am not talking about how bright they are, but how well they light up the roadway and surrounding area without impacting other drivers.

 

I think one important step is overlooked much of the time and that is to perform a voltage test at the headlight bulb when the project is complete. Most bulbs manufacturers require 13.2 volts AT THE BULB to perform to their specs.  This means making the check with engine running and headlights on.  Both test leads should be placed at the connector on the bulb for most accurate reading.  In my case the low beams showed 13.4 volts and the high beams showed 13.2 volts.

 

In the diagram below I interfaced the factory schematic with my modifications.  I used 14 gauge wire in the relayed part of the circuit.  The schematic works for either two bulb or four bulb system.  The factory part of the schematic makes it easier to find wires however you decide to do the project.

 

- John

I know this is old, but does anybody have the two document attachments as they no longer work...

Sorry, it looks like they are photobucket pictures. Nothing I can do about that. I can tell you that after having a set of Sport Headlights and modified with the relays didn't do much good. Beam pattern was still narrow and not very good.

 

 

Basically, you need 4 relays, 2 fuses. Kind of hard to explain in text but one relay for low beam and one relay for high beam. The 85 and 86 pins go between hi beam and common or lo beam and common. The 30 has +12V power and 87 goes to the bulb. The common pin of the bulb goes to ground. 

 

Tell you the truth you might look into this...

These are MUCH brighter and light up more area...

 

 

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

 

Scroll down for the diagrams.

Edited May 28, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

edited your post make the link clickable...

Hugs ! 

31 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Sorry, it looks like they are photobucket pictures. Nothing I can do about that. I can tell you that after having a set of Sport Headlights and modified with the relays didn't do much good. Beam pattern was still narrow and not very good.

 

 

Basically, you need 4 relays, 2 fuses. Kind of hard to explain in text but one relay for low beam and one relay for high beam. The 85 and 86 pins go between hi beam and common or lo beam and common. The 30 has +12V power and 87 goes to the bulb. The common pin of the bulb goes to ground. 

 

Tell you the truth you might look into this...

These are MUCH brighter and light up more area...

 

 

 

 

11 minutes ago, Macarena Man said:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

 

Scroll down for the diagrams.

Basically what I wanted. I wanted to wire my factory 2 bulb system to a 4 bulb and make each headlight 2 hids. Thanks for the links