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My brakes have been worse than normal lately and with new pads on the front, I knew it had to be the back. My driver side was all sludged with rear end oil so I guess there is a inner seal on the hub leaking.I got my axle out but there is some kind of little lock nut that I need to remove and ive never seen anything like it before. My jeeps never had anything like this full floater and I have never worked on one before so if you have any tips I would greatly appreciate it!

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Your welcome Heavy. Yes, But i would get both just in case and you could take one back.

I did both rears in my '96. Used a chisel and hammer. reused both nuts and tin gaskets, etc.. Was actually a cake-easy job.

  • 2 months later...
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120-140ft pounds, then back off 1/3 turn is what the book says. I set it on 130 and then backed it off. Just did the passenger side yesterday and also put some gm dually wheel cylinders on so should be good for a while.

Could you please elaborate on the GM dually wheel cylinders? Do they have larger piston diameters yielding better rear braking performance than the OEM wheel cylinders? Is this mod applicable to the Dodge dually, specifically a '99 3500 DRW, 4.10 Dana 80?Thanks,Joe in St Louis

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My brother works at a local parts store and told me that a 95 chevy 1 ton single wheel and a 99 dodge dually have the same part number wheel cylinders but a 95 chevy dually and a 99 dodge dually do not. These are the ones I put in my truck http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR2/W79768.oap?pt=01324&ppt=C0066 . These have alot better stopping than my stockers and a little better than yours. Well worth the upgrade to me, I had to hit the brakes hard today and I felt the rear anti-lock brake do its thing and I never felt that before with the old cylinders. Here is the part for a 99 dodge dually and 95 chevy 1 ton single wheel, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR2/W79767.oap?pt=01324&ppt=C0066 You get 1&3/16 compared to 1&1/16.