My transmission has lived ALOT longer than it should under my foot with the comp on and up. I drove it heavily on 5X5 for several years before learning the possible weakness of the tranny . I did buy it used and the comp was on it when i bought it but that was all for mods when purchased. just wondering if there is any way i can find out if there was any performance upgrades done without me having to tear it apart completely? i did pull the dust cover which didnt tell me squat and the torque converter does engage in third regardless if the OD is on or not....6 changes in rpm speed through 4 gears (TC engage in 3rd, unlock, shift to OD, reengage). i just h ope somebody here has some insight. thanks

the only other thing i could think of was to remove the tranny pan and see if the VB is marked aftermarket in someway, somewhere. other than that i have no idea.

2 of the local dearlerships who have done the filter replacement said that the VB looks stock as well. I wonder, can a 47re last longer with abuse with fluid and filter change every 15000 miles (every other oil change)?

well good maintance will always help mechanical parts last a long time.

money well spent i guess...im still curious about the shift schedule. its not like any other autos i've driven.

well it could be the stock VB but with a shift kit in it. that you would not be able to tell unless the VB was out and apart.

did not think of that one, prob because personally i would have forked out for a full VB not just shift kit. thank you for that

you are welcome sir. but a good shift kit is still a pretty good idea for the $$$ and the benefits that you recieve.

hello and welcome to the site..a good convertor and a upgraded v.b. would be the safe way to go:drool:

did not think of that one, prob because personally i would have forked out for a full VB not just shift kit. thank you for that

Thanks Cajflynn forgot about that.

Does sound like a funny shift schedule (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 3rd+TC lock, o/d with TC unlock, o/d + TC lock). Is this schedule common with aftermarket shift kits/valve bodies? Just trying to get smart on 47RE transmission upgrades prior to pulling the trigger.Thanks,Joe in St Louis

The truck unlocks to shift. If you don't want it to you need a Lockup controller.

I think that this just depends on the shift kit. and the option's within the kit.

you are welcome sir. but a good shift kit is still a pretty good idea for the $$$ and the benefits that you recieve.

Any recommendations on a good shift kit?

Easiest way to tell for mods with vb is to take it out and check springs as compared to oem .... and clearances in the holes on pressure plates .....I would just buy a dtt or goerand Valve body

Easiest way to tell for mods with vb is to take it out and check springs as compared to oem .... and clearances in the holes on pressure plates ..... I would just buy a dtt or goerand Valve body

try this is if it helps

I've had good experience with the Transgo shift kit, not sure what else is out there. If you know of a reputable diesel tranny shop, most can rebuild your vb to their specs, saving a lot of money in the long run and be just as good.

I know it has been a couple of years since this thread was opened, but wanted to give an update. I did actually run into the previous owner (and also found out that I have a cousin who was an engineer for the 47re project who talked to me at length about this transmission) and found a few things out about the truck. I now have right at 200,000 miles on the old girl and it is in fact a stock transmission. The later model 47s were set from factory to go into lockup in direct drive regardless of whether or not the O/D on/off switch was activated. the valve body in my truck did have the pressures set higher along with having that BD pressure "thingy" put on it. The TC was the factory TC but had been taken apart and modified as well. I had the pleasure of torque twisting my transfer case off of the back of the OD section (picture is in the latest Diesel Power magazine)(I will come back to this in a moment). Finding out from my cousin that they do in fact use a from of hydrostatic fluid in the transmissions during the break in period at the factory, what he told me was astonishing. they use this fluid because it show "zero wear on the clutch packs and on the sun gears" during the break in and pressure testing procedures (I am sure that I will get the third degree on that one). I have been running with HYgard since he suggested this to me back in 2011. now back to the OD section issue...while it was at the shop, I had them tear the transmission all down and measure the thicknesses of all the clutches and steels and hear is what they found. none were worn past 50%, meaning that I am only half way through the material. this is with 15000 mile fluid flush interval then switching fluid all together. so...how week is the 47re? It isn't!! just take care of it

so...how week is the 47re? It isn't!! just take care of it

There enlies the problem. 90% of the people do NOT do just that.. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

There enlies the problem. 90% of the people do NOT do just that.. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

yup!! too easy to abuse then neglect a piece of equipment. then when it breaks, we all want to scream at the manufacturer. dodge did in fact put limits on an otherwise bulletproof design so that it would in fact have a "life time". the design of the 47re behind the cummins is for 120,000 miles at full recommended gcwr. that is why they have an input torque rating of 450lbs behind an engine with 460lbs of output...couple that with what we all know to be to light of apply pressures through the VB and ATF+4 that is designed to PROMOTE slippage between the clutches and there you have it. I, for one, was not happy when I was shown the paper work on how they created design flaws into what i consider to be the stoutes design for simple brute force of any transmission from the big three. But they all do it. ford and chevy with the allison. so there we are. the engineers spend big bucks to get you past the warranty and onto spending another 5400 or so bucks to replace on your own dime, unless you address the inherent design (read intentional) flaws that are in any piece of equipment