I was given an 02 QC 2wd. It sat under a carport for 2 yrs due to the young man that it was given to not having any interest in it. We pressurized the fuel tank and got fuel up to the VP44. I cracked the return line and ran the pump until fuel ran out of it. Then I cracked the 1, 3&4 injectors. With two hot batteries she turns over with authority, but no fuel reaches the injectors. I am used to working on 12v engines, and know little about diagnosing the Vp44. Could the electronics be bad in the IP? The truck was running fine when it was parked. Thanks in advance for your help!Chris

I was given an 02 QC 2wd. It sat under a carport for 2 yrs due to the young man that it was given to not having any interest in it. We pressurized the fuel tank and got fuel up to the VP44. I cracked the return line and ran the pump until fuel ran out of it. Then I cracked the 1, 3&4 injectors. With two hot batteries she turns over with authority, but no fuel reaches the injectors. I am used to working on 12v engines, and know little about diagnosing the Vp44. Could the electronics be bad in the IP? The truck was running fine when it was parked. Thanks in advance for your help! Chris

any trouble codes? turn key from off to on 3 times leaving it on on the third time and write down all the P-codes it spits out on the mileage display

mmmm, nope, didnt do that. Ill get on it tomorrow. Thanks!

any trouble codes?

turn key from off to on 3 times leaving it on on the third time and write down all the P-codes it spits out on the mileage display

For this body style truck, that trick works only on 2000 thru 2002. Even then some have issues occasionally.

--- Update to the previous post...

I was given an 02 QC 2wd. It sat under a carport for 2 yrs due to the young man that it was given to not having any interest in it. We pressurized the fuel tank and got fuel up to the VP44. I cracked the return line and ran the pump until fuel ran out of it. Then I cracked the 1, 3&4 injectors. With two hot batteries she turns over with authority, but no fuel reaches the injectors. I am used to working on 12v engines, and know little about diagnosing the Vp44. Could the electronics be bad in the IP? The truck was running fine when it was parked. Thanks in advance for your help!

Chris

When you cracked the #1,3, and 4 injector lines, did you turn over the engine until you got a good fuel spray at each injector coupling? Seems odd that it would not start or at least attempt to unless perhaps the injectors are gummed up and not working at all which I think would be very improbably for all 6 to do this.

I guess after reading the post i am confused.What do you mean pressured up the tank?If it was me.I would put at least 10 gal of fuel in it.Then i would bump the starter and open the lines at the injection pump.I would do that until fuel reached the injection pump and gushes out.Then i would close them. Open all 6 at the injectors,i say all six because of the 2 years.Then crank the starter for 10 sec.Check for fuel at the injectors,If none, do it again and so on until fuel gets to the injectors.If you do this and you try to start it ten times or so and no fuel gets to the injectors you have a lift pump problem or a rotted line that is sucking air.If you do get fuel at some of the lines at the injectors close them off and keep going. edit,Your post says "someone" gave the kid the truck.I bet it had a problem the owner couldnt figure out.Or didn't want to deal with.The steel fitting on top of the tank could be rusted and sucking air.The return line on back of the head could be sucking air.The lift pump could be on it's way out.The injection pump could be shot.I would also check the water in fuel lever.Open it and see.Check the fuel filter as well.

Thanks for the replies! I got it running before I read them though. By pressurized I meant that I used compressed air to slightly pressurize the tank to force the fuel up to the lift pump. After that I bled the feed/return lines on the IP. Then I cycled the pump several times, and cranked on it several times. The batteries were dead at that point, so I charged them overnight. This morning It took about 3 good tries to get it to fire. Even with only 3 injectors bled, it only took 3 seconds to smooth out. So, now she is running. It starts with just a bump of the key, hot or cold and idles like new. That is all of the good news, though. Anything over 1500 rpm and it runs rough, with a cloud of white smoke. I need to get the codes cleared because there was a lot of corrosion on the batteries and some fittings when we first started trying. But it is throwing a mess of codes. these are:1698038202150230056203800216So I guess the IP is shot, which I do not have the $1k to replace. Thanks for everyones help!Chris

The 382 and 380 could be cleaned as you stated.The 215 may be a ground problem.:shrug:The230 could be a bad lift pump or a bad connection.:shrug:The 562 could be because the the truck sat so long and the alternator is bad or the wire on back is corroded.:shrug:The 216 could mean the ip is shot or more corrosion.Do all the free stuff first.(checking grounds and cleaning electricials)I will tell you i had bad grounds on my truck and it was a pain.

So glad you got it running. That's really good news. Charge the batteries up fully. Check them to see they're good... after 2 years they're likely junk. There are minute parasitic loads on most modern vehicles... but a vehicle left to sit with the batteries connected will have them drained to nothing & beyond. A bad battery will cause all kinds of problems. Dual batteries should be replaced as pairs. Clean & repair the battery cables. Then start checking the other wiring connections listed. These computerized trucks are very sesitive to electical faults. Wire brushing connections is free.

Thanks for the replies! I got it running before I read them though. By pressurized I meant that I used compressed air to slightly pressurize the tank to force the fuel up to the lift pump. After that I bled the feed/return lines on the IP. Then I cycled the pump several times, and cranked on it several times. The batteries were dead at that point, so I charged them overnight. This morning It took about 3 good tries to get it to fire. Even with only 3 injectors bled, it only took 3 seconds to smooth out. So, now she is running. It starts with just a bump of the key, hot or cold and idles like new. That is all of the good news, though. Anything over 1500 rpm and it runs rough, with a cloud of white smoke. I need to get the codes cleared because there was a lot of corrosion on the batteries and some fittings when we first started trying. But it is throwing a mess of codes. these are: 1698- http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2633-P1698-No-CCD-Messages-received-from-PCM?highlight=p1698 0382- http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2582-P0382-Intake-Air-Heater-Relay-2-Control-Circuit?highlight=p0382 0215- http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2561-P0215-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Control-Circuit?highlight=P0215 0230- http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2567-P0230-Transfer-Pump-(Lift-Pump)-Circuit-Out-of-Range?highlight=p0230 0562- http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2591-P0562-Charging-System-Voltage-Too-Low?highlight=p0562 0380- http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2580-P0380-Intake-Air-Heater-Relay-1-Control-Circuit?highlight=p0380 0216- http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2562-P0216-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Timing-Failure?highlight=p0216 So I guess the IP is shot, which I do not have the $1k to replace. Thanks for everyones help! Chris

Links to diagnostics...

Thanks for all the help, guys! Oh, and thanks for taking the time to put in all those links Mike! I did replace the batteries, and I will go through and check all the grounds, connections. Where are all the grounds located? Is there a stickey with them I missed?

Sorry i dont have a link to the grounds.The ecm it self is grounded to the engine.So you could remove it and take sand paper or a wire brush to the 3 contact points .Under the ecm the harness has one.infront of the driver side battery about 6 of them come together.To the right of the pcm has one on the firewall.On the firewall in front of the abs has one.I know i am forgetting a bunch.

Actually the ECM is connected to the driver side ground terminal...

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm

Now why didn't it occur to me to look at the wiring diagram? Thanks again, Mike! Dually, I will check all those when I go back to it in the morning. Thank you!