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01 pushrod cover gasket to white smoke

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Hello! I need some help. I had a bad oil leak on my 2001 Dodge Ram 3500. I've changed the pushrod cover gasket and put everything back as it was. After that, as I was little to lazy to start it proper way with bleeding injector lines ... I just used ether. Vehicle started and I thought, it was ok ... and it is while it's idling. Problem starts when press the gas. Huge white smoke is comming out of the pipe. Seams to me, like it smells like a diesel ... so all I can think of ... timing got screwed up. Anybody has any idea how to set the timing in VP44? I just put back everything as it was ... but there was no smoke before the procedure.Thanks

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Just how much ether did you use? We just had an engine at work last week that ran out of fuel and operators thought ether was an easier route to go also, now we have an engine with bent push rods and bent connecting rods. You chance taking out the head gasket as well and the fact you have a grid heater that will ingnite the ether and cause a nice internal explosion if you don't disconnect the grid heater relay.:nono:Ether is a flat out no no on modern engines. Another thing is if you removed the vp44, did you make sure the arrow on the half moon key was pointing towards the pump when you reinstalled it? This will create issues with timing as the key has an offset on it specific to the pump, they will have the same part # on them, it will run but not well if its install backwards. Did you check for current codes after the job? If not check for codes.

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Thanks!I just used enough of ether for engine to pick up the fuel and start working on its own. Maybe 5-8 secunds ... tops. Like I said, it started to work on its own and idle pretty nice. It was idling for over 15 minutes and was working fine ... even ... no smoke ... no leak. The problem was when I took it for a spin ... and found so much of a white smoke behind. I put it back in the driverway and ... on idle was still smooth. No smoke. Just when press the gas.The key in the shaft I checked when I pull it out, to make sure the arrow is in the right dirrection. It never came out of the groove.There are still no codes set ... and SES light never came on.I've checked oil ... and has no signs of water mixing with it. Same for antifreeze ... stays the same level.I don't feel any sweet taste in the smoke, so it can't be antifreeze. The only thing I'm feeling in that smoke is diesel. I've tested all injectors ... and all of them working (tested by bleeding ... to feel the difference). The only thing ... Just after testing ... smoke got much thiner. After that ... I disconnected VP44 ... rotated the engine a little, connected back and when starting the engine ... I have some gray to black smoke. It is only at start. After that ... still idle nice ... and still white smoke when hit the gas.I got so stupid already ... and only thing I can think of ... is timing.I'm a mechanic, but so far was working only on cars. This is my first diesel ... lol ... I mean after the tractor ... but this is serviced by the shop.Any idea?

Let's talk basics... you were running fine (or so it seemed). You disturbed the IP (VP44).

What have you got for Fuel Pressure? These trucks are notorious for Fuel Lift Pump Failures. (Rational: may have been bad before, disturbing it may have made it apparent.)

Have you got an Air Leak suction side of IP? (I really think this is most likely where your issue is.)

Have you bled all the air out from disturbing the lines to the injectors? (I think you got it all but... )

Has the VP44 chosen this moment to crash? (I don't think so, but I have to ask.)

No, I don't like using Starting Fluid on diesels...

Does the white smoke go away after the truck heats up? Could be a leaky injector. My truck blows lots of white smoke if I let I'd idle for too long. The block does not stay hot enough to burn all of the fuel.

Let's talk basics... you were running fine (or so it seemed). You disturbed the IP (VP44).

What have you got for Fuel Pressure? These trucks are notorious for Fuel Lift Pump Failures. (Rational: may have been bad before, disturbing it may have made it apparent.)

Have you got an Air Leak suction side of IP? (I really think this is most likely where your issue is.)

Have you bled all the air out from disturbing the lines to the injectors? (I think you got it all but... )

Has the VP44 chosen this moment to crash? (I don't think so, but I have to ask.)

No, I don't like using Starting Fluid on diesels...

You still need to check for codes even if the cel light in not on. there are few codes that will set a cel on these cummins. Use the key method and read and write them down as they scroll throught the odometer .Key on- key off- key on- key off- key on for third time but not to start position just ingnition on, after the third time on watch the odometer and see what codes pop up. Edit: I see you did check codes already.

If you're still stumped, you should try having the codes read by a code reader, rather than the key trick. When my truck quit in the middle of the street, I had no CEL until it shut off! I got no codes using the key trick. The Dealer told me "No Codes". The diesel shop read with their code reader & found 4 codes.PS We'd have more information to work with if you used the signature space to describe your truck.

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Thanks guys!Flagmanruss ... yes, it was working fine but for the spill under as oil was leaking pretty bad. That's the reason I had to replace pushrod cover gasket. After replacing it ... I mean now, it starts every time no problem and idle nice. I'm only thinking what the idle speed shoud be, if it doesn't run little over as it idle at about 850 rpm. To replace the gasket I had to remove VP44. The key never came out of its position in the shaft. After the job done ... like I said, it does idle nice and without any smoke. The problem is when I hit the gas. It blows the white smoke ... but mainly when depressing accelerator. Smoke is pretty heavy, but this is only when parked. When I took it for a spin, after replacing the gasket, it was a wall of white smoke behind. Truck was still working fine ... though. I would never think about any problem ... if not looking in the rear view mirror ... lol.I can't say, as I didn't check the pressure ... mainly ... because it starts so nice and working really fine at idle. As the problem is ... I bled all of injectors. All 6 of them. Like I said ... after that smoke got little thinner but still there.Cajflynn, it doesn't matter cold or warm. On a cold it's blowing heavy white smoke ... and after idle it for 10-15 minutes smoke gets little thinner sometimes ... but after 2-3 times of hitting the gas ... it gets back to a thick one.Like I said, last time with ignition off I disconnected the plug on IP, rotated the engine about 20-30 deg and connected IP back. Smoke is maybe little thinner ... but I got a grey to black smoke when I start. It still starts no problem on the first try. Right now, I've checked codes ... and it reads ... PCM code P1693 and ECM code P1689. That is not much to tell as it could be triggered when I disconnected the IP. I guess, even with the ignition on ... it could trigger 1689 ...Like I said ... the strangest thing is ... that truck is just working fine at idle .... Working as it should nice and even ... and without any smoke .... just after start as well as after 15 minutes of idling.Pump failure ... could result in a no start condition ... or at least hard to start. All injectors seams to work, as there is a difference after loosing a connection to each one of them. It really leaves me clueless ... except for the timing ... but have no idea how to check or set this one. I thought it should catch this automatically from reading from crankshaft position sensor ... or there are more settings on the wheel ... and it's reading wrong set as the number one?Like I said ... I'm clueless ... as for the engine to work so fine at idle ...After all ... I think ether will be out of the things to use on this truck ...lol

My truck did this when the injectors went bad and a few stuck open. You can have the injectors pop tested and see if they are the problem. There is not any way to adjust the timing on the pump.

If its white smoke with slight blue haze you may have a turbo seal out as when pushing oil straight into the exhaust will burn white in color as well. I would monitor oil usage and pull the intake tube off the turbo and see if there is oil on the intake side of the turbo, if not unhook the exhaust elbow and look for signs of oil in the exhaust housing.

Here is an idea for you! I replaced a vp 44 once an I thought I had realigned the key way properly! Well I was off just barely! The truck would start an idle fine but white smoked an ran a little rough when revved up! Pulled pump back off, an liked to never the key out of the shaft because I crushed it, put new key in aligned properly, the truck runs perfectly now!

My thinking is along the lines of something that was disturbed is unhappy. The IP & fuel lines had to be removed. Coincidences can happen but most often it is an unintended consequence of something that was done. Russ PS Not to hyjack this thread but when I did the key thing on my 01.5, I got PCU -------- ECM -------- as I previously posted. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3848-It-was-Running-Fine-until-it-WASN-T!-WTF The diesel shop got 4 codes (P1689, P0230, P0232, P1693) I don't know why the key trick did not work, but it did not. I don't know about certain years, but no one would need code scanners if the key thing told everything.

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Ok ... as I was trying it ... and trying it ... I added some of the injector cleaner. It was smoking little less but when I pulled out of the driveway ... smoke returned. Still no smoke on idle, so returned back on idle. After park I see the tail pipe is wet and it seems like an oil. Now it starts to make some sense to me. If turbo is leaking, it won't smoke on idle ... but I'm used to ... dark grey smoke if turbo is gone ... but heavy white smoke? Is there any way to check if this may be the problem? Engine starts nice, idle nice, sounds good when accelerate ... and even pick up nice. Maybe like Wild and Free said ... turbo is working, just the seal gave up and leaking oil straight into exhaust. Do I have to get the new turbo for that ... or can it be fixed? Can I change that seal? ... and if so, any idea? Do I have to pull the turbo out complitely? Sorry, all my life I was working only with cars ... this is my first diesel ... and first turbo. I had never been working on those.

See post #11. For stock turbo its best to just buy a new one. they can be had for 300-400 bucks for stock HX 35. You could also find a rebuild kit for it if you are comfortable rebuilding your own if this is the problem.

I have a hard time with blaming the turbo since it was fine prior to the repair. I think it is either the key has been crushed or the fuel system is the culprit. Take a look at this chart to see if it will help: http://www.hiflo.com.au/troubleshooting.cfm

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