Cliff notes for Raptor 100 and Autometer fuel pressure sending unit and snubber install, just in case I screwed something up along the way I’ll thoroughly explain, main questions will be in bold font to make easier to read (I hope):

FP Sender - Removed lines going in and out of filter housing (½” ID 35psi fuel/emissions hose from Goodyear, worm gear hose clamp attaches over male fittings). Removed old fp sender which was smutted into filter drain valve and fitting. Reinstalled fitting with additional sealing washer (per Autometer) to index port at an angle away from drain tube, installed new sender and snubber. Bolted filter back into place and reattached hose from filter to VP. Removed fuel filter from canister, wiped out most debris. Began filling with diesel fuel, slowly pouring down the sides to wash any debris I missed to the bottom. Filled housing about an inch, covered with clean rag and let sit for 20 minutes to allow any floating debris to settle at bottom. Slowly filled canister ¾ of the way and inserted filter (3 weeks old).

Pump - Removed OE line from tank to pump and ½” line from pump to filter housing. Installed new ½” blue lines from Raptor kit, bolted pump to frame, installed new wiring, connected and secured hoses.

- Checked for power to the pump - the black ground wire is solid, the positive yellow receives a brief flash of power when key is turned to the "on" position. Double checked fuel line connections. Set flow setting on Raptor to fully open hoping this would get the lines bled faster. Stupid move - I was going to bump starter to bleed… forgot to disconnect a line to allow air a way to escape, held key in “start” position too long, truck turned over and ran for a few seconds then died. I’m going to go out on a limb here and guess air in the lines killed it

Bleed air from lines - removed line going into filter (those “quick connect” lines are fabulous!), wrapped a blue shop towel around the opening so I’d know when fuel came out (working solo here), bumped starter, allowed key return to "on" position, waited thirty seconds, turned key “off” and removed from ignition. Repeated more than 20 times (do not remember the # exact). No fuel present. Cracked the outlet line at pump, fuel was present at that point. I tried the bumping-bleeding business five more times and stopped afraid to cause damage (?)

- How many times can I bump the starter? How much fuel does it pump for the 25 second interval?

Could it be taking so long because of the length of the lines from the RP kit, they look to be long enough for an extended or mega cab (they are secured in a wide loop away from possible road debris)?

the problem you are having is identical to what i experianced except mine turned out to be electrical.

Gut feeling I have an electrical problem as well...

if you did have that connection apart, buy some electronics cleaner, take it apart again, clean both the socket and connecter, reconnect and try again. when you connected your new fp to ground is it possible you disturbed another ground wire, there are alot of them on these trucks. dont just buy another vp. this could be very simple.

I'll clean the VP connection as suggested, I bought some electrical connection cleaner before I started my original project (Operation: Gut the truck and kill rust all over the floor panels). You aren't kidding, there are grounds EVERYWHERE!

Definitely not buying a new VP until I pin point what's up. Tomorrow I'll do the test for the VP as outlined by Blue Chip Diesel (unless there are reasons I shouldn't?).

Mike has a wiring diagram for the vp plug here. i am not good at electronics either so maybe someone can help with how to chase that part of it down.

You and me both. I have the diagrams he's posted and the Service Manual from the download page. I think it would be easier if the truck wires *looked* like the diagrams, all straight and neat and whatnot.

i think you got something loose or corroded and in need of cleaning.

Yup. I'm not liking electricity at the moment (as I type on my MacBook from the garage illuminated by fluorescent lights... hehe)

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Battery questions:

My batteries were getting low and cranking was waning, I hooked up the charger to the batteries (duh).

Again forgive my ignorance with the electrical matters, but is it correct for the driver's side battery to show almost full charge, the passenger's side battery to show empty, and the dash lights not come on when the key is turned "on"? After passenger battery was charged a little the truck behaved normal with key in "on" position. What in the heck? That doesn't make sense to me.

Second, the charger doesn't charge them all the way to full. Instruction manual said it should take 1.5 hrs to complete the charge and green light would illuminate. Hasn't happened for either battery over many hours of charging.

The batteries not being charged is why I haven't dived in to the connector testings as of yet.

I'll try to make sense of the electrical diagrams this evening and poke the engine in the morning.

I need to take my happy to WV by Sunday because classes start Monday bright and early! Stressed a bit? Nahhhh.......

--- Update to the previous post...

i thought i had the 1698 when my ecm went bad.

ahh Scheisse

we definately need and electronics guru for help here.

yeah buddy!

Ok as for the P1698 code... Check the connectors there above the valve cover it contains the CCD network from the ECM to PCM if the connector is corroded or loose it will cause this problem. You might use a ohm meter on the 2 twisted wires. (CCD network)

1996 Dodge (CCD wiring) not the same color but appear just like this with the twist.

P1689 is either a bad fuel pump relay in the PDC or ECM/VP44 is failing.

P0602 if some left a programmer flash it will trp this code (smarty, superchips, etc). If there is no programmer code then this might be pointing towards a failed ECM.

I got off the phone last night with another gent that is also seeing a lot of ECM failing I guess one shop if blaming the extreme summer heat on the ECM fails but...

~ thank you, your knowledge of these engines is crazy smart!

P0602 if some left a programmer flash it will trp this code (smarty, superchips, etc). If there is no programmer code then this might be pointing towards a failed ECM.

Is it of any importance (i.e., would it help to determine the cause of P0602 as ECM or programmer) to know what program/chip/flash was used? I can find the previous owner on facebook and ask. Prefer not to unless it's valuable info for the situation.

Relay is good.Connections look good, both clean and still had dielectric grease.

i regards to your batteries in post #22. it sounds like at least one of them is shot. it is probably time to replace them. you need to replace both and not one. your are only as good as your worst battery. i might not replace them until i had my truck running. hey guys would weak batteries be causing some of the problems?

it sounds like at least one of them is shot... i might not replace them until i had my truck running. hey guys would weak batteries be causing some of the problems?

Thxy! I wondered if one is on its way out but didn't think to link the two things together, I'll pick 2 up this evening.

I found a post @ CumminsForum.com <link>"Have you checked your batteries? ... with the battery being low the ecm suffers powerloss and you have truck issues." - I don't know this feller whatsoever, taking it with a grain of salt.

CCD BUSS from PCM to connector over valve cover is good.

(+) 0.5

(-) 0.4

Checking grounds now, working from engine wiring diagrams.

I appreciate any suggestions from readers as to what compenents, wires, connections to check/test!

Like to eliminate possibilities before dumping $$ into buying new parts if not 100% sure that's the problem.

It's quality bonding time with my truck. Can't beat that..

[pic is the freeze frame of when the P0602 was sent, dunno if that's helpful or not]

The 602 code is nothing to worry about. This can happen with any type of chip.

Thxy, glad to know!Cleaned grounds, cleared codes, checked connections and everything else, and put new batteries in. Cranking the engine was a thing of beauty! Started up with 3 injectors cracked and fuel came out of all of them in equal pressurized spurts. VP is alive :hyper:Ran rough as all heck, turned engine off to tighten the injectors up because the pressurized fuel hurt when it hit my forearm. Continuing to run it and hope it smooths out. To those with a RP-100, where do you have the pressure adjuster set? I don't know if my fp gauge is working properly now after new batteries. When I had it running the gauge went to 26psi, before that the cranking psi was at 6 (I believe this to be normal?) and spiked to 26 after it started. The pump adjuster is about a 1/4 turn shy of the most you can turn it towards "+". I'm going to lower it and see what my gauge does.

that fuel is coming out at extremely high pressure and can hurt you. it is under enough pressure to inject it thru your skin. i always crank mine and when it hits i shut it off and tighten the injector lines and restart it . it will run rough until all of the air is out of the lines. it should not take very long to clear up. you ought to run your idle pressure around 17# to 20# and should see maybe 2# to 4# drop at wot. as mike says "keep it in the green". Happy to hear you got her running again.

Yea... Be careful with high pressure fluid it can become very deadly...

You got it done right you got it fired up...

As for fuel pressure... Keep it in the green!

Happy to see fuel and tired from not going to bed last night, I forgot about the high pressure... Before that I whacked the side of my face on the crossmember for one bump and half of a black eye, common sense was not present :duh:Air is worked out and that green machine sounds better than ever :woot:Fuel pressure gauge needs to be replaced for sure. The needle dropped past 30psi and pointed straight down, moved clockwise and counter-clockwise, it's toast. Then I'll be all about staying green!It was a relatively inexpensive fix, learned more about truck's wiring, finally have a scan tool and auto electrical diagnostic multimeter/tool, and feel more confident about working with electrical and fuel system components.Thanks for the support, I truly appreciate you guys!

Happy to hear you got her up and running!

Good Job

That what we are here for to help out... Great to see you got it running...

Man glad to here you got her running , I think I would have been drinking a 12 pack after that !

I hate to say this but why didn't you cut the lines to shorten them up? My Airdog-100 came with 3 barbed splice connectors for just that reason and you are correct the lines are made up for the quad cab LWB trucks. As for where to pick up your power, I don't know if the 2nd gen trucks have this or not but here is where I picked up the 12 volt power for the pump.

The main battery line (drivers side) going into the fuss box (or power distribution box).

If it were me I would go back under and shorten those lines up. Here is a link to the post on my install of my pump and a guard I had made up to protect the filters from road derbies. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4261-Airdog-100/page2

I did the same thing... That way there is no corroded wires and a bunch of wires hanging off the battery cables... Good one Perrysburg Dodgeboy