I have "leaky line syndrome" you know where the connectors hold the lines from rubbing each other along the transmission. They have started to rust and are beginning to drip. I called the Dodge dealer and the three lines cost $232.78 not including the little clips (rust starters) that are $3 each. The price didn't sound too hateful but I was wondering if there is another source that has lines with a port for the transmission temperature gauge that I am going to install?I called Geno's who sells them for the older trucks but not the 02. They recommended Goerend Transmissions who said they order them from Dodge and would have to charge shipping on top of that. No good.Any help from a "been there done that" guy is welcome.Also, are these lines a MitsuBitchy" to get off? After reading the recent posts about the ball joint fiasco, I thought I had better prepare myself. It takes less time to have hemmoroid surgery than to remove ball joints from the sounds of it. I hope this isn't akin to that job.

Make sure to use the right tools getting those off...

Just bought these from Harbor Freight...

how much were those mike?

I wonder what shipping costs on those to Mount Olympus? I do have a set [from Sears] that don't look that nice. Get the engraver out Milke, before they grow legs.

Harbor Freight Specials for $9.99 a set... http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-99993.html http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-sae-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-99992.html

You might want to spray some Liquid Wrench or P B Blaster on those fittings while waiting for those parts.

You know, I always forget to do that, then ask myself why I didn't think of doing it. Thanks for reminding me.

All that rust must be from the stuff they spray on the roads in the winter. My old truck was rust free on the fittings.

They use calcium choride alot up there in New Jersey where the truck came from. That stuff is nasty. Here in WV. we can't afford that there fancy new fangled potion. They are sparing with salt as well. Thank God.

I received the line today that has the port in it for the temperature probe (Rockauto part #624-352) orginally for a 1995 Ram 2500. I remember seeing a post somewhere about removing a checkball from the line, otherwise it would have two. Is it located in the rubber portion of the line, and what is the best way to get it out?

I received the line today that has the port in it for the temperature probe (Rockauto part #624-352) orginally for a 1995 Ram 2500. I remember seeing a post somewhere about removing a checkball from the line, otherwise it would have two. Is it located in the rubber portion of the line, and what is the best way to get it out?

It is a rubber ball and it will pop out if you get behind it to pry out with a seal pick or very small screw driver.

Thanks Wild & Free. Do I need to take the fitting apart that connects the rubber line to the metal part to get to it? I would just look but I can't take this line apart to see, as I have to send it back to Rockauto. I has a nasty, sharp dent in it, so bad that I don't trust it to install. I am sending it back. To Rockauto's credit, they gave me no grief about it. Just sending me a shipping tag for the return shipping and sending me a new one. Rockauto was a good recommendation, I am pleased with their prices and shipping was fast.I was reading on another site, a fellow recommeds taking the check balls out of the lines completely. Would that be adviseable to do?

Thanks Wild & Free. Do I need to take the fitting apart that connects the rubber line to the metal part to get to it? I would just look but I can't take this line apart to see, as I have to send it back to Rockauto. I has a nasty, sharp dent in it, so bad that I don't trust it to install. I am sending it back. To Rockauto's credit, they gave me no grief about it. Just sending me a shipping tag for the return shipping and sending me a new one. Rockauto was a good recommendation, I am pleased with their prices and shipping was fast. I was reading on another site, a fellow recommeds taking the check balls out of the lines completely. Would that be adviseable to do?

Been a while since doing one can't remember right off hand. as far as removing both I would not, It keeps all the oil from draining back out of the cooler system. Thus preventing areation of the oil when it has to pump all that oil back through at start up.

Well, I received all the parts today. I have learned a couple of things. First, There are three lines on a 47RE. Two are available through Rockauto and other part stores, and one line isn't available from anyone but Dodge. I bought the two lines from Rock auto (part #624352, & B61050) for less than $100) great quality nice parts. The third line, the one that goes from the heat exchanger to the cooler up front, costs $142 from Dodge. ouch! There are lines listed on Rockauto that appear to be this line, but they are not, I know I bought them and they are wrong and a very poor value. $30 each for 14" ($3 worth) of straight rubber transmission line and a $5 fitting. they give a very poor description at Rockauto (no picture) and the people there are not able to help identify what is what as well.So, if you are inclined to change your transmission lines and want to avoid this expense and frustration, this is what I have learned.Buy two from Rockauto. Part #s 624352 ($43.79), this is the one that goes from the front transmission port to the heat exchanger on the passenger side of the block. This line is really for a 1995 model year, and has the port in it for the temp. sending unit. If you don't have a transmission temp. gauge you still have to order this one as they don't make one without the port, this is the only front line available that I have found other than the dealership and they want $80-$90 for it. They (Rockauto, napa, & Advance) don't sell the line without the port, so if you don't need the port, plug it as you may decide to use it someday and will have it. Note: The line with the port has a check valve in it. There is already one inline at the heat exchanger so the one in this line needs to be removed so you won't have two. (Thanks Wild & Free for the advice on that)Second line from Rockauto is the one that runs from the rear transmission port to the short rubber line that comes off of the cooler near the oil pan. It is about 56" long and solid metal with a fitting on one end and quick connect on the other, part # B61050 ($14.93) a good buy! The biggest and cheapest.Third line is the one from Dodge, Part #52028633 ($141.35) this line goes from the heat exchanger to the short rubber lines that come off of the cooler up front near the oil pan. This one costs more than everything else combined.This comes to $200.07. You will have to figure shipping in on the lines from Rockauto.Now, If you want to replace the short lines that go from the cooler (in the grill) back to about the oil pan. These connect to the above mentioned lines, Don't do what I did and buy part #s A61097 and A61098 from Rockauto. They are about $30 each. You can just buy two connectors from Rockauto (part #800716) for $5 each, and buy 3' of transmission line (enough to do both), and two small clamps from Napa and have the EXACT same thing as they are going to send you for about $50 less.If you want to replace the fittings that go into the transmission (recommended) they are Rockauto part # 800717 and about $10 each. I recommend this as they have a rubber seal in them that tend to leak if not replaced.I am documenting this to help someone else that is going to do this. I did a search both here and on another site and really couldn't find a whole lot of help. This has been a bit of a pain to figure out. I hope this helps. Now, to get the last line from Dodge and install them...I may have a bit over $200 invested in this, but as Wild & Free wisely stated in an earlier post. It is cheaper than a $3000 transmission.

I was scanning for other issues and found this thread- FWIW there is a better way than Rock auto (as good as they are, and I use them alot). Classic Tube has these mastered and will sell them in stainless steel- all 3 lines. All you need is the check ball section, or something to eliminate it. Cost me just a little more than your total investment (they mastered my lines and now have them on file) but it's a perm solution in the rust belt.Also, some never seize on the tube under the nut and on the nut threads will go a long way to making sure you can get them off is you even need to in the future.

Thanks, I saved their website for future reference. I will be replacing all the brake lines sometime in the future and they look like they could be a good source for them.