it have to really shorten a story here. pulled my rv for the first time in a while. pulled it over the bluridge mountains at 22,700 total. notice on filllup that i had oil on the rv and the under carridge of the truck. check my oil and i have an extra quart in the crank case. figure i have a leaky injector or 2. been wanting some rv 275's for a while and ordered a set from DAP. GREAT PRICE AT $269 + $100 core. drove to my daughters house to install and sprung a coolant leak just before arriving. spent the day installing the rv's and then dealt with the coolant leak. from the best i could tell it was coming from the water pump. could not see it well enough to tell for sure, but it appeared to be streaming from the pulley on the water pump. got a new water pump and installed it. the leak was reduced but still there. every time i tightened the bolts a little more it got smaller. but i felt i was overtightening the bolts big time. it is late and i gave up on fixxing the leak tonight but wanted to drive the truck and see how the new injectors were working. so i put another gallon of water in her and took her for a spin. i mile out and one mile back. parked the truck and no water leak.temp is now at 180+, it has apparently stopped. and i cant make it leak now.have i missed something or do you have to drive the truck to seat the gasket? it was rubber and fit into a groove on the pump. does it take operation af the vehicle to seat this gasket?:shrug:

Typically the o-ring should be lubed up before installing also the holes should be clean and smooth for a good seal. But no it shouldn't require a run period for a o-ring to setup.

i am speaking of the gasket that came with the water pump not the o rings on the injectors or the cross over tubes.

I oil any rubber gasket. Make sure it is clean and dry. I also put all bolts on a wire wheel to clean any crap on the threads. Then i put some permatex right stuff on the threads. That sealant really works. It cost more but is worth it. In fact i dont have an oil pan gasket,i use right stuff on most everything.

--- Update to the previous post...

Yes, oil waterpump gasket it will help it seal. When i say gasket i mean the rubber o ring.

i am speaking of the gasket that came with the water pump not the o rings on the injectors or the cross over tubes.

The water pump mounts with an o-ring not a gasket. Never seen a gasket come with a B series cummins water pump.

my new pump came with a gasket that was square sided and fit in agroove cut into the pump. it was taller than the groovebut not as wide. when looking at the old pump i did not think it ahd a gasket. but upon further investigation you could see it, but it was flush with the pump flange and blended in with everything else until i prodded it. i ran the engine some with it about half full andit leakeda fair amount. i kept tightening the bolts and it kept slowing down to a drip. sunlight was fading so i put some more water in it for a test drive. when i got back it was not leaking. i am still watching it now with no leaks seen at the present. i never had a leak disappear after driving so i will keep watching. yalls input is appreciated and if you have more put it on me.

It is a square cut O-ring, I don't consider it a gasket though. Answers the confusion now though.

it does fit like an o ring. a gasket would fit between to flat surfaaces. the orings on my injector fit in a groove but they were round. the ring tha fit in the water pump was square sided but fit in a groove.

it does fit like an o ring. a gasket would fit between to flat surfaaces. the orings on my injector fit in a groove but they were round. the ring tha fit in the water pump was square sided but fit in a groove.

So how did this work out for you? It seemed at first like you were getting coolant in your oil. Maybe I misread? Problem solved?

no coolant in the oil. i was getting fuel in the oil, thats why it was growing. i just started loosing coolant and it turned out to be the water pump. hopefully the new injectors and new o rings on the cross over tubes will take care of my oil growing problem.

no coolant in the oil. i was getting fuel in the oil, thats why it was growing. i just started loosing coolant and it turned out to be the water pump. hopefully the new injectors and new o rings on the cross over tubes will take care of my oil growing problem.

Hi Dripley, I hope so as well. How many miles on your CTD when this happened? Dave

i noticed the oil growing about 2 weeks ago while pulling my rv over the mountains. once i got the rv off it quit iguess the extra loading just aggravated an already present problem. went to my daughters house this weekend and ran pretty hard going there and it did it again it looked worse this time so i slowed down and continued on. stopped one more time and thats when i saw coolant every where. it must have just started because it was leaking pretty good. i was almost there so i just limped i and parked. got it all together and nomore coolant leak. seems i still have a little fuel weeping at the cross over tubes though. this all happen at 240k miles.

i noticed the oil growing about 2 weeks ago while pulling my rv over the mountains. once i got the rv off it quit iguess the extra loading just aggravated an already present problem. went to my daughters house this weekend and ran pretty hard going there and it did it again it looked worse this time so i slowed down and continued on. stopped one more time and thats when i saw coolant every where. it must have just started because it was leaking pretty good. i was almost there so i just limped i and parked. got it all together and nomore coolant leak. seems i still have a little fuel weeping at the cross over tubes though. this all happen at 240k miles.

What will you do about the weeping? 240K, I'm still on my original WP at 191K, hope I still have some life in mine! Thanks & good luck, Dave

when i installed the injectors i had 2 new crossover tubes. i installed one in #6 and one in #1. 1 is not weeping and 6 i cant see. i do know the other 4 are weeping a little. i can idle the engine while parked and nothing is dripping like before. i will probably put new ones on and see what happens. i did take the one from #1 and polishe it up with a scotch brite and installed it in #3 but it is still weeping. i had the most problem with that one and had to change it before i did the injectors. maybe i have been overtightening them in the past i dont know. i did not have any problem with them until recently. i believe ther are plenty of guys here that have not had that problem so hopefully you want. DAP has the cross overs for $24 ithink. ther is a local place here where i am working and i got them for $28. i will probably buy a couple stick them in and see what happens. idid install new o rings onth the for originals.

Don't condem them until you drive it for a week or so. The fuel you see can weep out of the void between the injection line nut and the void in the head where the tube goes into the head. I just replaced my injectors a few weeks ago and it weeped fuel for almost a week before drying up. I was thinking i had a leak as well but let it go for a couple more days and it dried up finally.This is of course happens only if you leave the lines loose to prime the system and pump air out to get it running. If you tightened them up right away and are one who is a starter killing crank it forever to get it to prime and there is fuel leaking then I would suspect a leak then.

Don't condem them until you drive it for a week or so. The fuel you see can weep out of the void between the injection line nut and the void in the head where the tube goes into the head. I just replaced my injectors a few weeks ago and it weeped fuel for almost a week before drying up. I was thinking i had a leak as well but let it go for a couple more days and it dried up finally. This is of course happens only if you leave the lines loose to prime the system and pump air out to get it running. If you tightened them up right away and are one who is a starter killing crank it forever to get it to prime and there is fuel leaking then I would suspect a leak then.

i will keep an eye on them and see what happens. as far as restarting i left 1,3, and 4 loose. I bumped my lift pump many times untill i saw a little fuel on the manifold and then tried to start it. i held the sarter for bout 5 seconds and if it did not hit at all i stopped and bumped the lift pump a couple more times. i started to hit the 3rd time of doing this. then i closed 3 and4 and hit the starter again and it fired. then itightened #1. and it smoothed out a ran just fine. in the past i would just crank on it hard until it started. i did not know then that the lift pump would push the fuel as foar as it does. when i installed my AD i for got to recconnect the vp electronics and spent 2 hours trying to figure out what was wrong:ahhh:. the ad was pumping fuel thru the injector lines and i thought i had a bad fuel leak at the rear of the engine. turned out to be the lift pump was pumping fuel that far:doh:. after messing around so long it came to me,CONNECT THE VP:doh::doh:. pugged it up and bingo it sarted right a way. since then i just let the lift pump do most of the work before trying to start. appreciate the info wh.

So what is the recommended way to start a truck then if this is what happens when we open the line at the injector? Just keep bumping the key?Dave

i dont know what every one recomends but it seems to me letting the lift pump do alot of the work gettting the fuel to the injectors is much better on the starter. i know in the past i have cranked and cranked on it to get the engine started. the lift pump is only running about half speed while cranking so it would take longer to get the fuel to the injectors. since the lift pump is running constantly while the engine is runnig it would seem to me that doing it this way would hardly add any additioonal stress on the pump. thats my thoughts.

i dont know what every one recomends but it seems to me letting the lift pump do alot of the work gettting the fuel to the injectors is much better on the starter. i know in the past i have cranked and cranked on it to get the engine started. the lift pump is only running about half speed while cranking so it would take longer to get the fuel to the injectors. since the lift pump is running constantly while the engine is runnig it would seem to me that doing it this way would hardly add any additioonal stress on the pump. thats my thoughts.

So how many times do you bump the key to get ready to fire it over. I don't know, I just do a combination of starting & bumping till it fires. I don't do anything w letting air out of the lines. Inform me guys! Dave

opening the injectors will get the fuel to the injectors alot quicker. i ran mine out of fuel the first time not long after i bought and could not get it started until i opened them. as far as letting the lp do the work, i think i bumped 6 or 8 times before i got fuel up to the injectors. i tried sarting twice for about 5 or 10 seconds before it caught on the third try. i dont know how much a better way it si to do that way. but it seems i would save some wear on the starter.

opening the injectors will get the fuel to the injectors alot quicker. i ran mine out of fuel the first time not long after i bought and could not get it started until i opened them. as far as letting the lp do the work, i think i bumped 6 or 8 times before i got fuel up to the injectors. i tried sarting twice for about 5 or 10 seconds before it caught on the third try. i dont know how much a better way it si to do that way. but it seems i would save some wear on the starter.

Cool! Until it finally starts it seems it's forever too! I had my starter, Denso, down a few weeks back to change my crank sensor, for all the work it does I expected it to be much heavier.