If it wasnt for bad luck I wouldnt have any luck at all!... Now my 01 24 valve is spitting oil out the dipstick bad! I get a puffing noise from where you ad oil in the valve cover. Checked the puke box nothing wrong with it. What the heck is going on???:banghead: Is there another vent for the crank I am missing? Or could it be the vacuum pump again? It runs rough and smoking white. :banghead:

Decided to install a revmax stage 4 convertor. The new jasper auto is junk with out a better convertor.

Does anyone know how much atf i should put in this new torque convertor before installing?

Does anyone know how much atf i should put in this new torque convertor before installing?

It will take about 3-4 quarts.

--- Update to the previous post...

Decided to install a revmax stage 4 convertor. The new jasper auto is junk with out a better convertor.

You can put the best of the best converter in but it is still no better than a stock unit if you do not install an upgraded Valve body to up the internal tranny pressures.

It will take about 3-4 quarts.

--- Update to the previous post...

You can put the best of the best converter in but it is still no better than a stock unit if you do not install an upgraded Valve body to up the internal tranny pressures.

Iam going to put in a valve body but runnin out pf money with the motor and tc all at once.

Finally got the motor running Sunday. The thing runs and idles good, but I got one small question. Does this 5.9 have a rev eliminator in it? Reason I am asking is because when I rev it way up in park it seems to stumble a little at a high RPM. I rechecked the connectors on it, but nothing changed. The other motor was doing the same thing before I changed it, so I know its not just this motor. Maybe it is one of the many sensors on the motor? She is not throwing any codes though.

what is high rpm? i can rev mine to the red portion and have no stumble.

Finally got the motor running Sunday. The thing runs and idles good, but I got one small question. Does this 5.9 have a rev eliminator in it? Reason I am asking is because when I rev it way up in park it seems to stumble a little at a high RPM. I rechecked the connectors on it, but nothing changed. The other motor was doing the same thing before I changed it, so I know its not just this motor. Maybe it is one of the many sensors on the motor? She is not throwing any codes though.

Why would you do that? These are not gasoline engines that where designed for higher rpm ranges. It is likely that you destroyed or helped destroy your first engine, through similer abuse. Diesels were designed to be lumbersome pulling monsters, not sleek goddess of speed i.e. a 440 six pack. Treat them like your grandma, not your G friend, and they will be around along time. Granny needs awhile to get up out of the chair, and get the old bones limbered up, but once going can go all day at a steady pace. A diesel should be thought of in the same way. Start it up, let the oil presure build, and then drive like granny would till the temp. gage climbs into the good zone, and then work her all day long at a steady pace. Used this way they will run circles around a gas motor, treat it like one and you'll get the results you did with your first engine. Off my high horse now.

I agree... Diesel are not designed to be free rev'ed... I work mine for hours towing, hauling or just driving at 1,500- 2,000 RPM typically. Got to remember all the parts in a diesel are much heavier and are not designed for high R's (at least in stock form).

Why would you do that? These are not gasoline engines that where designed for higher rpm ranges. It is likely that you destroyed or helped destroy your first engine, through similer abuse. Diesels were designed to be lumbersome pulling monsters, not sleek goddess of speed i.e. a 440 six pack. Treat them like your grandma, not your G friend, and they will be around along time. Granny needs awhile to get up out of the chair, and get the old bones limbered up, but once going can go all day at a steady pace. A diesel should be thought of in the same way. Start it up, let the oil presure build, and then drive like granny would till the temp. gage climbs into the good zone, and then work her all day long at a steady pace. Used this way they will run circles around a gas motor, treat it like one and you'll get the results you did with your first engine. Off my high horse now.

First of all I never said i was using either engines for a at high reving motor like my 540! You should ne able to take amy motor amd rev them up in park to see if your motor is running right. I only said i was reving it up to ahigher rpm to see, like 2000 rpms Next time i guess i will have to be more specific and watch how i say things!

you shouldnt have any stumble all the way to redline. mine doesnt.

Well the simple fact is after installing and priming the fuel system your going to have air in the system (stumble) it best to go out and drive it for several miles to work the air out. Like a injector job I did a few weeks ago. I clean the injector drove it for a few miles ran great idled smooth. But next morning rough and missy. High idle for a few second to see I could clear it... Nope... But after it was driven it was fine again. Owner never had any issues with it since... So air bubbles may be a bit tricky to get out...

good point mike, didnt know if he drove it or not yet.

First of all I never said i was using either engines for a at high reving motor like my 540! You should ne able to take amy motor amd rev them up in park to see if your motor is running right. I only said i was reving it up to ahigher rpm to see, like 2000 rpms Next time i guess i will have to be more specific and watch how i say things!

It's yours to do with as you like. I was just saying, the problem that brought you here to begin with was likely, because of the way you treat your stuff. Again not trying to offend, just pointing out that the results you found out about your 1st engine, sound an awful lot like what you would expect from a diesel engine not being used / driven / serviced in the manner it was intended. i.e. all 6 cylinders being down on compression, are classic symptoms of driving / using the truck before it was warmed up sufficently. You don't have to sit and let it idle, till it's warm, but you can't take off like a jack rabbit either. It takes me 5 mins longer to get to work now that I have the dodge vs. the 5.3L chevy. With the chevy I could just drive normal, as soon as the oil pressure was up. Now I drive like an old man with nowhere to go, till the temp. hand moves into the zone on the gage. Diesel longevity requires a lifestyle / driving change. Have fun with your truck, I was just trying to give you some different ways to skin the cat.

Been following this thread since the beginning...when is that head coming off the old motor. The suspence is killing me.

good point mike, didnt know if he drove it or not yet.

Yes, for eight miles. Now its eunning like it has no power and giving me a 0216 code

I have my other new IP off the motor i took out so, i guess i will be swapping them out

--- Update to the previous post...

It's yours to do with as you like. I was just saying, the problem that brought you here to begin with was likely, because of the way you treat your stuff. Again not trying to offend, just pointing out that the results you found out about your 1st engine, sound an awful lot like what you would expect from a diesel engine not being used / driven / serviced in the manner it was intended. i.e. all 6 cylinders being down on compression, are classic symptoms of driving / using the truck before it was warmed up sufficently. You don't have to sit and let it idle, till it's warm, but you can't take off like a jack rabbit either. It takes me 5 mins longer to get to work now that I have the dodge vs. the 5.3L chevy. With the chevy I could just drive normal, as soon as the oil pressure was up. Now I drive like an old man with nowhere to go, till the temp. hand moves into the zone on the gage.

Diesel longevity requires a lifestyle / driving change. Have fun with your truck, I was just trying to give you some different ways to skin the cat.

Im no young kid beating up my truck! Anybody that knows me will testify that I maintain my truck well, as if it was my kid. So you really have no right saying how I treat my vehicles if you dont know me without true facts!

The results on my first motor? I did not know you could see threw metal? I never tore it apart yet. Your jist assuming, which Im sure you know how thar works.

--- Update to the previous post...

Been following this thread since the beginning...when is that head coming off the old motor. The suspence is killing me.

Trust me it killing me to really truthfully know! However; I have to get the truck up and running for my company to use. If everything goes good I should be taking it apart on Sunday.Thanks for the concern!

Im no young kid beating up my truck! Anybody that knows me will testify that I maintain my truck well, as if it was my kid. So you really have no right saying how I treat my vehicles if you dont know me without true facts!

The results on my first motor? I did not know you could see threw metal? I never tore it apart yet. Your jist assuming, which Im sure you know how thar works.

Your absolutely right, I don't know you. And beleive it or not, I'm not looking to make an enemy here. I don't need to look through the metal to diagnose the problem. Experiance has told many here that with compression down in all cylinders and one cylinder only having 100 psi. What will be found once the head comes off. Cylinders 2-6 will have worn rings or most likely scored cylinder walls. Cylinder #1 will most likely have a hole in the piston, and or worse scoring than cylinders 2-6. There are but a few ways that, that can happen.

1) Oil / fuel / air changes not to schedule or incorrect type or weight of oil, or the wrong filter for the application. Improper fuel type.

2) Improper operation of the equipment, prior to engine reaching operating temp.

3) Vehical used as part of a business, with more than one driver (gleaned from your posts, if true see items 1 and 2)

4) With the miles you stated you had on the truck, there is a remote chance that you lost compression in all 6 cylinders, due to 6 faulty injectors washing down the cylinder walls. But you should be playing the lottery if thats the case.

5) Add on do dad adding way too much fuel, causes cylinder wall wash down. Injector #1 goes bad, causes hole to burn in piston. Which brings a problem to light ( scored cylinder walls, low compression).

If it turns out to be anything else I'll eat my crow without ketchup or salt. You came looking for answers, and I honestly told you what "I" thought the problem was, based on your answers to the questions asked by the board members.

Sorry if you are offended by my posts. It's not my intention to do that.

Your absolutely right, I don't know you. And beleive it or not, I'm not looking to make an enemy here. I don't need to look through the metal to diagnose the problem. Experiance has told many here that with compression down in all cylinders and one cylinder only having 100 psi. What will be found once the head comes off. Cylinders 2-6 will have worn rings or most likely scored cylinder walls. Cylinder #1 will most likely have a hole in the piston, and or worse scoring than cylinders 2-6. There are but a few ways that, that can happen. 1) Oil / fuel / air changes not to schedule or incorrect type or weight of oil, or the wrong filter for the application. Improper fuel type. 2) Improper operation of the equipment, prior to engine reaching operating temp. 3) Vehical used as part of a business, with more than one driver (gleaned from your posts, if true see items 1 and 2) 4) With the miles you stated you had on the truck, there is a remote chance that you lost compression in all 6 cylinders, due to 6 faulty injectors washing down the cylinder walls. But you should be playing the lottery if thats the case. 5) Add on do dad adding way too much fuel, causes cylinder wall wash down. Injector #1 goes bad, causes hole to burn in piston. Which brings a problem to light ( scored cylinder walls, low compression). If it turns out to be anything else I'll eat my crow without ketchup or salt. You came looking for answers, and I honestly told you what "I" thought the problem was, based on your answers to the questions asked by the board members. Sorry if you are offended by my posts. It's not my intention to do that.

1)Well this therory is wrong for this situation seeing , like stated before, Im the one keeping up the routine maintenance and does it properly when needed. 2)This one doesnt even apply also seeing I do have years of experience driving diesels and know the proper ways to operate them. 3)This is an assumption that just because I stated that the truck is used for my company doesnt mean I allow people to drive it. I DO NOT allow anyone to drive it except myself! Refer to answer 2! 4)Just the mile s alone should tell you that it has been maintained! 5)Just because some people choose to have a ower enhancer doesnt mean that they will have " cylinder wash down". I can assure you that I have never had my TST over 5 setting non-towing and stock mode 1 for towing!

Like I said not looking to make an enemy. Since you have ruled out all the reasons I can come up with for 6 cylinders being down on compression, and one with a likely hole in it. All thats left is bad luck?Sorry I couldn't help, and I'll still eat the crow if the cylinder walls aren't scored. Post some pics when you get it apart, if you have the time.

The only thing I can think of that would reduce compression numbers would be...

[*]fuel washing the cylinders down from bad injector(s)

[*]Dusting the engine (washable filter used like a K&N)

[*]Poor lubrication (wrong oil, fuel dulition, poor filtration)

The only thing I can think of that would reduce compression numbers would be...

[*]fuel washing the cylinders down from bad injector(s)

[*]Dusting the engine (washable filter used like a K&N)

[*]Poor lubrication (wrong oil, fuel dulition, poor filtration)

Bad valve or valve seat an cracked or broken rings or worn rings among other things.

For those that think free revving a diesel is bad need to quit stirring the pot. it will hut nothing They are designed to run at a rated speed safely thet is why the speed is governed.

You all need to go to an auto dealer like GM and watch an engine go through a block relearn sequence after replacing a crank or cam sensor. You would think the engines are going to blow as it needs to see max goverened rpms several times on a gasoline engine I am talking. Most dealers will not let customers in the shop to see this procedure done.

As a diesel tech for the last 20 years most diesel engine manufacturers state engine life is most accurately determined by the gallons of fuel it has burned over its life rather than hours or miles.

Example, rather than thinking a cat engine should have a life expectancy in hours "say 20K hours" they have worked out formulas over the years determining that every engine given standard maintenance and not figuring in mechanical failures "Its metal and it can and will break weaken or fail at some undetermined point"is most likely going to have a life of say 100K gallons of fuel burned. As far as cold starting and going to work I call bogus. Here in the north counrty if an engine has run for as little as a couple minutes in sub zero temps even, I have never seen it shorten the life of any engine unless there are underlying conditions. Internal cylinder temp is more important than coolant temp and the internal cyl temp is going to rise to normal levels within a couple minutes usually.