I just found a leak on the rear of the head at the gasket. It leaks coolant but only when its cold. Once its hot it stops. Is there anything I can do to get a little more time out of it? Will it cause any damage to wait if I keep a close watch on it? Also should I have the head gone through when I have it off? Should I get head studs, and does someone have a kit with studs and all the gaskets? Thanks for any advice (192,000 miles)

Bars leaks contains sod silicate, problem with using it, is it does not mix well with anti freeze hence the flushing with water. If used correctly im sure it will work till you get the cash to fix it. I understand where you are coming from, i dont have the money to do that either, it would get sold or sit and collect dust. I think you need a engine hoist to remove the head, and a bunch of cash to pay machine shop. no fun.

Use waterglass. Quit worrying.

Its been a while since I have commented here, but I was moveing. I think I'll go with ARP studs and maybe rv275's while I'm at it. I was looking for gaskets and found there are several differant thicknesses. What is stock, and what are the others for? Different compression?

I would recommend a fel pro gasket. The different thickness gasket is for when you have to deck the block if its warped at all this keeps the piston to valve clearance the same. Which also means the compression stays the same.

Well I finally got around to repairing my head gasket. I have my injectors and studs and have the head ready to go to the machine shop. I noticed when removing it, it seperated from the block very easy and there was alot of oil around all the bolt threads. Is this normal?

fairly typical to see oil down around the head bolts on most vehicles.

I just found a leak on the rear of the head at the gasket. It leaks coolant but only when its cold. Once its hot it stops. Is there anything I can do to get a little more time out of it? Will it cause any damage to wait if I keep a close watch on it? Also should I have the head gone through when I have it off? Should I get head studs, and does someone have a kit with studs and all the gaskets? Thanks for any advice (192,000 miles)

for temporary fix ive used http://www.amazon.com/Bars-Leaks-HDC-Radiator-Tablet/dp/B000KKND3Q/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_i, they work pretty good. had old 350 sbc head bolts leaking antifrize into valve cover not much but you can see it buble when engine is hot.did it 3 years ago still no leak. i used 3 tablets.

i heard bars leaks will tear up a water pump if left in there and not flushed? that is if the problem is never repaired.

i heard bars leaks will tear up a water pump if left in there and not flushed? that is if the problem is never repaired.

not sure how it would tear up water pump, but our old 2002 subaru my wife had had an issue with a head gasket leaking antifrize so i put these tablets in there, and worked for about 2 years and never leaked after we traied it the car for a crv

not sure how it would tear up water pump, but our old 2002 subaru my wife had had an issue with a head gasket leaking antifrize so i put these tablets in there, and worked for about 2 years and never leaked after we traied it the car for a crv

i wasnt sure if it was bars leaks but there is something that isnt meant for permanent fix as it will wear the veins of the water pump down or something like that

I'm not a fan of any quick fix material you can pour in the coolant for stop leak. It always best to fix the leak by changing the gaskets, seals, etc. That way you never have to worry about it again.