Well I got hit again today with a bad part. Got all my gauges hooked up yesterday and was waiting on the intake elbow gasket to get here before I run the truck. It came in this morning and I got it all back together and primed the fuel system. Let it idle for a couple min and looked at my fuel pressure gauge and saw this I checked every part house in town and no one ha the pump at a reasonable cost and none would price match an online competitor price. Called the Cummins dealer in Memphis and he priced me one for 160 an said he would ship it to me for about 10 dollars. Went ahead and ordered it since a don't have the money to put on an AD or Fass right now. The new pump should be here tomorrow. P.S. That pressure is at idle. I took it for a short drive to see it it would improve and it would hover just above 0 at 55MPH.

Where did you put your sensor? Before or after the fuel filter.You may just need to change your fuel filter.

It is after the fuel filter but I just had the filter out yesterday and it was still clean. Had a few dark spots but not enough to cause that much restriction and it only has about 1500 miles on the filter

Ouch!!!My pressure was 5 PSI idle, and 0 PSI WOT, with 80,000 miles on the stock lift pump. :duh:Are you using a snubber or needle valve before your sensor?

Inside the pressure fitting where you screw on the gauge line (you have the isspro 30# gauge ?), you will see a small lotted screw with an even smaller hole in it. This is a dampening arrangement on the gauge itself and it might just be completely shut off. I would guess about one turn open would be plenty - maybe slightly less.I would take the gauge off and make sure that this small screw isn't completely shutting off the incoming fuel pressure. Hopefully it will be this and not a bad pump. HTHmariner

Yes and I have opened it up even more than were I was originally reading that pressure thinking maybe it was restricted. I had heard the pimp run and it didn't sound good an that is why I got gauges mainly. I had kinda prepared for it ahead of time lol

- - - Updated - - -

My post are getting out of order for some reason. My last post was saying yes about a needle valve. No I am not running ISSPRO gauges it is a Glowshift electric gauge. I have the new pump ordered. Tried to find a mechanical gauge but no one in this town carries one for diesel. They have all been for gas

Inside the pressure fitting where you screw on the gauge line (you have the isspro 30# gauge ?), you will see a small lotted screw with an even smaller hole in it. This is a dampening arrangement on the gauge itself and it might just be completely shut off. I would guess about one turn open would be plenty - maybe slightly less. I would take the gauge off and make sure that this small screw isn't completely shutting off the incoming fuel pressure. Hopefully it will be this and not a bad pump. HTH mariner

Pretty sure my gauge is throwing an accurate number at me. . . At least it better be. (BTW, this was last summer, and the stock LP has been disconnected an a mechanical pump installed)

Ok the new lift pump got here today and I got it all put and a lot happier with Wat I saw and heard. With the new pump you can hear it hum when it's running as with the other you almost had to get under the tuck to hear it. Fired it up and PSI jumped to 12 at idle. Let it idle and checked leaks and then went down the road with it. At WOT turning 3000RPM which is VERY rare for me the it holds steady at about 5PSI and just cruising down the road at 65 it hovers between 8-9PSI. A whole lot better than it was but I would still like it to be higher just can't afford it right now.

Big Line Kit would help it out a bunch. The stock fuel lines and banjo bolts are restrictive.

Big Line Kit would help it out a bunch. The stock fuel lines and banjo bolts are restrictive.

As above combined with moving the pump down to the frame under the drivers seat will make a huge difference. I have my stock OEM Carter set up this way, been that way for over 150,000 miles on the same pump. Pressures are 15/16 psi at idle and WOT won't go under 11 psi. Big line from the front of the tank to the VP with only the factory filter canister in the middle. Jeff

I am a low budget guy,sooo. I spliced onto the old stock fuel line as it comes out onto the frame rail with 3/8 hose and clamps. Then to a 3/8 inline suction filter and then to the pump (mounted on the frame) and all the way through the stock filter to the vp44 with 3/8 line and 3/8 banjo fittings. I drilled out all the ports in the banjo bolts to .182. I used a raptor pump but your new stock pump will give lots of flow with this setup. For the 140 micron suction filter, 3/8 banjo fittings and hose go to Eric at Vulcan.

As above combined with moving the pump down to the frame under the drivers seat will make a huge difference. I have my stock OEM Carter set up this way, been that way for over 150,000 miles on the same pump. Pressures are 15/16 psi at idle and WOT won't go under 11 psi. Big line from the front of the tank to the VP with only the factory filter canister in the middle. Jeff

Where did you get your big line kit from and are you running a draw straw or hooked to factory tank module?

The smallest restriction on your stock set up is the bore in the 5/16 banjo fitting.(.173) The 3/8 banjo bore is .2962, (same as the banjo bolt bore). The 3/8 banjo is a 290% improvement in flow area over stock. Your 5/16 (.3125) line just forward of the tank is Still larger than the bore going into the VP44 (.2962). The 3/8 banjo fittings from Vulcan are 5.99 ea. Suction filter is 7.99. Drill out your banjo bolt ports to .182. Run all new 3/8(.375) rubber line to vp. This is my recommendation for a low budget big line kit for a stocker with no hassel of dropping the tank for a bigger draw stray.

Good information, my ECM died a while back and took along the lift pump with it, that was a pricey little situation.

i have a 01 5speed 2 wheel drive 24 valve as far as i kno its completly stock but i am having trouble with power issues around 2000 to 2500 it loses power then around 25oo it picks back up iv changed oil air and the fule filter and it did not help im not sure what else to truy and this bein my first cummins kinda new to the whole thing so any advice would be verry apreciated

i have a 01 5speed 2 wheel drive 24 valve as far as i kno its completly stock but i am having trouble with power issues around 2000 to 2500 it loses power then around 25oo it picks back up iv changed oil air and the fule filter and it did not help im not sure what else to truy and this bein my first cummins kinda new to the whole thing so any advice would be verry apreciated

First thing I would do is check and see if there's any trouble codes.

Next I would install a fuel pressure gauge.

Search this website, and you'll find what you need.

Good information, my ECM died a while back and took along the lift pump with it, that was a pricey little situation.

Was your lift pump still powered from the ecm when this happened? The new aftermarket ones power off the batteries AND a relay is activated by the ECM/ old LP power supply line which helps to save the ECM.

Was your lift pump still powered from the ecm when this happened? The new aftermarket ones power off the batteries AND a relay is activated by the ECM/ old LP power supply line which helps to save the ECM.

Yes, the lift pump was being powered from the ecm when it happened, as the dealer diagnosed, until both died! Stuck out in the middle of no where, out of town, had to have the Chrysler dealer involved.

I can see where a shorted lift pump may kill an ECM, but can not see how a bad ECM cold take out a pump motor. Will a dead short in a pump kill an ECM or is someone selling more parts?

I can see where a shorted lift pump may kill an ECM, but can not see how a bad ECM cold take out a pump motor. Will a dead short in a pump kill an ECM or is someone selling more parts?

Mopar Man says if the pump gets jammed from debri or the elect motor seizes it will burn up the ECM. That's why you should get the power from the batteries instead, letting the ECM activate a relay.

Where did you get your big line kit from and are you running a draw straw or hooked to factory tank module?

My "kit" is parts and pieces from Vulcan as well as stuff sourced from a local parts store. The tank module is factory stock, no draw straw at all. The connection to the tank is factory as well. My "big line" actually starts just before the tank itself on the frame rail. The Carter pump is mounted directly below the drivers seat on the outside of the frame rail and feeds the factory filter canister/heater assembly. From there is is "big line" directly into the VP. The pump wiring was extended down to the frame mounted pump using a Vulcan harness but they are simple enough to make. Everything is Push Loc type rubber hose, braided or anything is not needed. Push Loc is cheap and available just about anywhere and way less hassle that braided. I had braided at first, waste of money for this application. I can take some pics of the frame mount set up if you want them. Jeff