I want to install a new draw straw and 1/2" fuel line from the tank. I'm torn between dropping the tank and lifting the bed. Understand that I work in gravel and don't have a lot of jacks/tools. I even saw a YouTube video where a guy cut a hole in his bed to gain access. That's even a consideration. Problem is that the tank unit sits right under a support bar of the bed. But a couple holes on each side of the cross member might be adequate. Having perminant access to the tank unit would be cool. But not sure I have the guts to go that way. So looking for opinions about bed tilting or tank dropping. I can invision a pully system to lower and raise the tank.

Looks like your friend is wrestling a full 30 some gallon alligator. On a serious note. Is it necessary to drop the driveline?

Is it necessary to drop the driveline?

Nope. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Nope. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

That was quick! Thanks! does Michael go out and take pics every time there is a question? That's service!

That was quick! Thanks! does Michael go out and take pics every time there is a question? That's service!

Im laying in a hospital bed so I got time... Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Sorry to hear that you're ill. Get well soon!Joe.

Im laying in a hospital bed so I got time... Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I guess I missed that while I was away. Best wishes on a quick recovery.

On my truck I got to drop the drive-shaft because the carrier bearing bracket just barely covers the front tank band. So the carrier bearing is dropped but I found a secret too. If drop the shaft and tie it to the passenger side with a bungee or similar you can gain a bunch of room and sit up under the truck and move pretty good. As for the tank in that picture its completely empty.

Mike that is truely friend. To get down and dirty like that.... Man, he deserves 1st place there.When you change out the fuel lever register do you guys go for an aftermarket one or just go to the dealership for it?There's gotto be a good aftmerket source.

Dealer only... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/236-fuel-gauge-replacement-sender

On my truck I got to drop the drive-shaft because the carrier bearing bracket just barely covers the front tank band. So the carrier bearing is dropped but I found a secret too. If drop the shaft and tie it to the passenger side with a bungee or similar you can gain a bunch of room and sit up under the truck and move pretty good. As for the tank in that picture its completely empty.

I thought I was going to have to do the same thing. But I was able to force it out, then I got the grinder, and shaped up the end of the tank bracket, so now it slides in and out with ease.

I dropped the tank recently to replace the fuel sender. Pretty straight forward as there are only a couple of straps, filler hose and supply/vent lines to remove. The tank was pretty empty and I used a couple of jacks to lower and re-lift the tank. Maybe it is just me but I found that re-installing was a bit of a bother as my 2wd truck does not have a lot of ground clearance and getting access to see and reconnect the fuel lines was a bother. I ended up jacking the truck so I could sit underneath which allowed me to use both hands to reconnect the fuel lines. The fuel line connection is shape keyed kind of oval and with only one hand it was near impossible to match the shape of the tank and connecting hose. With the truck lifted a bit to allow me to sit and then using two hands it was easy. I think that crawling underneath and using jacks to lower and lift the tank would have been difficult on a gravel surface.

I understand it takes a deep well socket to access the tank strap nuts. I've got all the parts ordered for this weekend. Raptor 150 with the big line kit including elimination of banjo bolts on filter and VP. My question is, what size socket do I need? I've got to buy one to do the job. Thought maybe someone knows.

OK the last two tanks I dropped both in cars, one a 300m and the other a Dodge Stratus. Both had a drain plug to remove the fuel. Do they not put a drain plug on the tanks in our trucks :think:I have to say pulling the bed is not a big deal if you have a way to lift it on and off. A chain fall and some rope tied off to the cleats inside the bed would work. Not everyone has a front end loader:wink:Don

OK the last two tanks I dropped both in cars, one a 300m and the other a Dodge Stratus. Both had a drain plug to remove the fuel. Do they not put a drain plug on the tanks in our trucks

I have to say pulling the bed is not a big deal if you have a way to lift it on and off. A chain fall and some rope tied off to the cleats inside the bed would work. Not everyone has a front end loader:wink:

Don, no drain plug in the tank on my 96.

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15mm for the strap nuts on my 96.

I had to drop mine twice when I installed my ADII. The first time took me 1.5 hours just because I had never done it before. The center bearing is in the way some what. Some head scratching and a little persuasion with a hammer and it came right off. The second time was to correct the clamps I did not completely install the first time I had it out. Both times I stacked wood blocking under each end of the tank and let the tank rest there. I was able to lift the tank on one end and let the fuel go to the other end while I removed the block on the light end. I only had about 4 gallons in the tank. The more fuel the harder that would be. The second time only took about 30 minutes.

15mm for the strap nuts on my 96.

Same on the '98.

Does anyone have a QCSB 2wd? Its a pain to drop my tank and I have topper as well. No way to lift the bed, and the best way I found to drop my tank is to tak the rear wheel off and I have to remove a cross memeber as well to get the tank to drop. :banghead: If mike has any more friends like that to loan out I'll drop the tank. If not its gonna be while. Will be my third time dropping it. 1st to put the draw straw in. 2005 iirc, then second was to replace the DS with a modded canister to eliminate the 1/4 tank issues but the canister is sucking air somewhere. So I have to use the old DS for now.

Mine is sucking air at a half a tank....... does anyone know if the fuel level sender fails when still showing a full tank?I need to know because sucking air at a half tank seems impossible unless it's really near empty and gauge shows half..

Mine is sucking air at a half a tank....... does anyone know if the fuel level sender fails when still showing a full tank? I need to know because sucking air at a half tank seems impossible unless it's really near empty and gauge shows half..

How much fuel can you put in the tank after it sucks air showing 1/2 full? Deduct what you put in from the tank size and you will have a good idea of how far off your gauge is.

There is a way of checking the sender to be sure you not hung up on the wall. Crawl under and loosen the collar nut. The carefully twist the sender one way and listen for the float arm to bang then back the other direction and listen again to bang again. Then measure about half the way and tighten again this should verify the arm is not trapped again the wall giving a poor reading.