Good evening ladies and germs.

yet again the gremlins are on my truck lol.

To start i have had zero issues with the vp44 since replacement of it 3-4 years ago (budget rebuilt vp, didnt have much $ at the time). I have replaced the lift pump system twice and no issues/codes since last replacement early this year. new connector tube orings last summer, no head leaks. new seal washers on return line from head, will check for leaks.

So this morning i drive home zero issues. This afternoon it was about 95 outside and started the truck from cold and it started with zero issues (normal time to ignition lets say 1.5 seconds to fire)

I drive appx 10 or so miles, trucks nice and hot zero issues plenty of power. I had 3 stops during this time and they are as follows.

stop one bank 5 minutes. starts perfect normal power.

stop 2 post office 10 minutes. starts perfect normal power.

stop 3 lunch appx 1hr. it was parked slightly nose high/uphill and it experienced a longer than normal start (appx 3 seconds) and once started zero running issues normal power.

I get home, truck sits in road appz 1-2deg nose down, after 15 minutes it restarts perfect.

i dont move truck, but wait an hour. Long start, runs fine after. immediate shut down and restart is fine.

wait another hour-hour half and had long start, runs fine plenty of power. this was at 20:00hrs

got to work, let it sit and attempted restart 15 minutes later, long start. immediate shut down and restart is fine.

01:25, attempt to start with long start. immediate shut down and restart is fine.

ZERO codes for past 3-4 years after VP replaced. No CURRENT codes (verified with scanner tool).

All readings, eng temp/boost/batt/oil press/fuel press/boost/ are good and normal, tank half full (verified). Batteries are 3 months old and spins engine fast.

I will let it sit level till end of shift and see what i get for starting result and will put up findings in this thread.

However,

I am noticing a small bit of fuel smell now and a small drip/small puddle, so i am leaning towards air draining the system a bit and will isolate tomorrow. I hope this is a $5 fix, if it turns out to be a bad distributor ring (worn) in the current VP, i will just save pennies and get the "as close to new" VP44 from Blue Chip Diesel so i dont have to worry bout this for a long time as i have the longevity mods in and use 2 stroke.

http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/products.html

BEST UPGRADED Blue Chip Rebuilt VP44

Injection Pump

$2475.00

I am posting this so others can get info from this specific issue and resolution.

I believe you are going to need some green backs to go along with those pennies for that pump. Here's hoping for a 5 buck fix.

I believe you are going to need some green backs to go along with those pennies for that pump. Here's hoping for a 5 buck fix.

it will take a month to save up. until then ill drive it till it fails screw it lol. I have a cruiser to get me back and forth to work. but yes i think its a problem with a seal washer somewhere on the return line or the "T" on the return line (its original), i am seeing the usual drip spot that led me to long starts before.

So i was done with work and looked under the truck, sure enough a small puddle was there. it started long and drove home no issues.backed into the driveway (nose down) got under it and saw raw fuel slowly building to a drip. the head was wet, return line and "T" were dry. so looked on top of the head and sure enough from cyl 1 and back was wet. i checked tightness of everything and all checked out but i suspect the orings need replaced and possibly the connector tubes.luckily i got a cummins specialist within a couple miles and he has orings. ill knock it out this week and report back with findings.

Maybe not the $5 repair, but close. I have the BC premium. It cost $17003 years ago when I bought it. Had a little more spare cash back then.

so parked tge truck this mornin, tightened #1 line and left it.woke up in the afternoon, went to start cold engine and started normal.i am now having lunch, parked hot truck nose down same place as yesterday and will see how it starts hot.if it starts normal while hot the vp is fine, if not i may need to replace it.i did pick up 6 orings and a pair of sealing washers for the banjo on back of head just in case

so 40 minutes of parked heat soak nose down and it started almost normal had a couple rotations more than normal but im sure its not the vp as the issue.time to remove injector lines and clean them and tubes, replace orings and see what happens next!

If its starting cold fine but hot poorly then I would check next time its heat soaked and pull the lift pump lead and then try again if it bust off easy then its a torn diaphragm. But if you got fuel leaks typically it would be poor starting in both conditions.

well i loosened and retightened #1, checked 3,4,5 tightness they werent loose.i went to start this afternoon and it started normal, drove 30 miles and parked for an hour then started fine...WTH???? ill wait for it to act up again to do something. ill post up findings.

If its starting cold fine but hot poorly then I would check next time its heat soaked and pull the lift pump lead and then try again if it bust off easy then its a torn diaphragm. But if you got fuel leaks typically it would be poor starting in both conditions.

cold start was long, hot start after sitting hot was long, but after it started an immediate restart was fine. im thinking the fuel leak was back draining fuel and sucking air into something.

so real funny thing... after retightening #1 the truck has been starting fine for a full day now, cold, hot, heat soaked, like it never happened...

Mine acted the same when my return line tee and bajo on the head were leaking. Still does it every now and again when the fuel tank is real low. I bump the starter and let the lift pump cycle once and it starts right up. sounds like you got a little air coming in somewhere.

Mine acted the same when my return line tee and bajo on the head were leaking. Still does it every now and again when the fuel tank is real low. I bump the starter and let the lift pump cycle once and it starts right up. sounds like you got a little air coming in somewhere.

yeah, still got a light drip. im gonna redo the orings and banjo washers soon when my back aint hurtin

update to this issue, i believe i solved the problem!!

i checked with my hand for any moisture on the banjo bolt on rear of head and it was dry. so i preceded to remove injector lines and replace orings, clean the mating seats as well and this is what i found on #5 crossover tube...

needless to say all were replaced moistened by motor oil so they dont catch on insertion. short term post starting seems promising and we will see about long term. will update!

Interesting. Never ever would have thought that... Whats the crossover tube and whats it do?

Glad you got it solved!I just now saw this thread, but FYI, CPP sells SO pumps for $970.

Interesting. Never ever would have thought that... Whats the crossover tube and whats it do?

im a tard was half asleep when i wrote it lol

I think CSM was kidding.

I think CSM was kidding.

ahh i see said blind man to deaf woman! emoticons dont show up on phone

I think CSM was kidding.

Actually I wasn't. I never knew that part had a name.

Interesting. Never ever would have thought that...

Whats the crossover tube and whats it do?

Actually I wasn't. I never knew that part had a name.

Ok. Just for you CSM

Connector tube (or crossover tube) is the tube that connects the high pressure line to injector. Inside the crossover tube is a filter called a edge filter. This filter takes small debris particles and beats then in the funnel shaped V's till the debris is small enough to pass-through the injector. On 12V's the edge filter is part of the injector body.