Good evening ladies and germs.

yet again the gremlins are on my truck lol.

To start i have had zero issues with the vp44 since replacement of it 3-4 years ago (budget rebuilt vp, didnt have much $ at the time). I have replaced the lift pump system twice and no issues/codes since last replacement early this year. new connector tube orings last summer, no head leaks. new seal washers on return line from head, will check for leaks.

So this morning i drive home zero issues. This afternoon it was about 95 outside and started the truck from cold and it started with zero issues (normal time to ignition lets say 1.5 seconds to fire)

I drive appx 10 or so miles, trucks nice and hot zero issues plenty of power. I had 3 stops during this time and they are as follows.

stop one bank 5 minutes. starts perfect normal power.

stop 2 post office 10 minutes. starts perfect normal power.

stop 3 lunch appx 1hr. it was parked slightly nose high/uphill and it experienced a longer than normal start (appx 3 seconds) and once started zero running issues normal power.

I get home, truck sits in road appz 1-2deg nose down, after 15 minutes it restarts perfect.

i dont move truck, but wait an hour. Long start, runs fine after. immediate shut down and restart is fine.

wait another hour-hour half and had long start, runs fine plenty of power. this was at 20:00hrs

got to work, let it sit and attempted restart 15 minutes later, long start. immediate shut down and restart is fine.

01:25, attempt to start with long start. immediate shut down and restart is fine.

ZERO codes for past 3-4 years after VP replaced. No CURRENT codes (verified with scanner tool).

All readings, eng temp/boost/batt/oil press/fuel press/boost/ are good and normal, tank half full (verified). Batteries are 3 months old and spins engine fast.

I will let it sit level till end of shift and see what i get for starting result and will put up findings in this thread.

However,

I am noticing a small bit of fuel smell now and a small drip/small puddle, so i am leaning towards air draining the system a bit and will isolate tomorrow. I hope this is a $5 fix, if it turns out to be a bad distributor ring (worn) in the current VP, i will just save pennies and get the "as close to new" VP44 from Blue Chip Diesel so i dont have to worry bout this for a long time as i have the longevity mods in and use 2 stroke.

http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/products.html

BEST UPGRADED Blue Chip Rebuilt VP44

Injection Pump

$2475.00

I am posting this so others can get info from this specific issue and resolution.

So do those crossover tubes ever need cleaned?

No. That is the job of the fuel filter to prevent any debris from ever reaching that point because if so that means the injection pump has been eating dirt/debris too and it not going to live long either.

So CDP, how's she starting now?

So CDP, how's she starting now?

its faster than ever! half second to a second if that! while i had the heater grid off i noticed my gasket had blown a leak so i replaced it with rubberized cork style and it drives great!

well i left the rig parked uphill all night and he starts with zero issue. problem solved!!

Happy days are here again!!!!!!!!!

well i left the rig parked uphill all night and he starts with zero issue. problem solved!!

So it was a o-ring issue.

So it was a o-ring issue.

yessir! it was so bad that sitting for 15 minutes would drain the system and cause long start.

I have a theory on what was going on here. The connector tube o-ring seals out air from getting into your fuel system. So if you have a bad one it lets air bleed back your fuel. You cannot measure air molucles(sp) so you can have an air leak but no fuel leak. Usually if you have a bad connector tube o-ring it will be hard starts cold and start normal when the engine is warm. I would have to look at he injectors to see if there is actually fuel return going past the connector tube but Im thinking that the o-ring on the injector blocks the return fuel.

Same issue with my truck. You can't see any fuel leaks but air would get in. I actually cut all the metal lines and used swagelok fittings to eliminate the stupid banjo bolts, problem solved.

I have a theory on what was going on here. The connector tube o-ring seals out air from getting into your fuel system. So if you have a bad one it lets air bleed back your fuel. You cannot measure air molucles(sp) so you can have an air leak but no fuel leak. Usually if you have a bad connector tube o-ring it will be hard starts cold and start normal when the engine is warm. I would have to look at he injectors to see if there is actually fuel return going past the connector tube but Im thinking that the o-ring on the injector blocks the return fuel.

ive had the pissing fuel from old orings before, this time with a visibly failed oring it was pissing and sucking air, very fast ill add! so you can have a combo of these... pissing sucking pissing and sucking (and no im not describing a porno LMAO